Fi-Tech Fuel Injection Question:

[c00nhunterjoe]

AND VIDEO. 

[Derwud]

Hmmm, my unit was test run on one of two "mule engines" they have; unless they no longer test run them, the defective parts must have been other than the throttle body. 

Saw the "mules" and talked to the test guys, real nice guys...

[Captain D]

Just a quick update til' later: The good news is that everything seems to be up and running in that the unit takes about a second & a half to fire up with no choke, pedal pumping, etc. However, one thing that I notice as unusual is that by the time I came back home from the shop, my battery was reading 12.9 steady on the voltmeter (a 30 minute drive home). So, I put the battery on a slow steady charge over night on the battery tender til' it was fully charged. I started up the car the following day and within 10 minutes the battery reading went from 14.6 back down to 13 - 13.3. range, which means that my alternator is working that much harder to recharge the battery and I've always had my battery (red-top Optima) comfortably between a great 14.5-14.6 range. Now, I realize that I had some newer stuff under the hood, sure, but I feel that this new reading is just too low. For those who also have a Fi-Tech unit, what are your battery readings and any idea what could be the culprit? Calling either Fi-Tech *again,* the shop - or both.

More updates to come...

[John_Kunkel]

My 150-amp alternator maintains 13.3 to 14.4 with everything running. What's the amp rating of your alternator?

[Captain D]

Hey John,

Thank you for your reply. I have a 60 amp alternator with a voltage regulator that can withstand up to 72 amps. I was able to get a hold of the shop and they said that 12.9V is actually good (even though I am not running any additional accessories) and I am not to do anything to change it, surprisingly. But, I just never had any of my batteries at that reading before and, according to my battery tender, my battery is in dire need of a charging - especially at initial cold start up. So, I just like to double-check stuff.

Thank you  again,
Aaron

[c00nhunterjoe]

As discussed in our texts, its low output. Verify with a voltmeter instead of the factory gauges, and have high beams and fan running as well. Also verify amp draw as well, if you dont have an amprobe, we can use mine to see how much is actually being pulled vs alternatory output.

[Captain D]

Yeah,  this system seems to require a lot of current.  It's disappointing to learn that my 60 amp alternator 'may' not be up to the task perhaps, as surprising as that thought may be.  But if I have to change out alternators, I'll have to be careful so as not to upgrade too much to the point that I run the risk of damaging the regulator (and some of the stock wiring).  Not that I want to go this route, but just thinking out loud I suppose...

[c00nhunterjoe]

If it comes down to total output needed, which im not buying yet, then i would suggest going internally regulated at that point.

[John_Kunkel]

Yeah,  this system seems to require a lot of current.  

The system main power is fused at 25 amps and that's usually over-rated by 20% or so.

[Captain D]

I contacted the builder of my alternator since he is very knowledgeable as well and, although he is in agreement that anything below 13V makes him weary, he is suggesting that I leave my current alternator in place for both the battery and alternator won't be damaged / affected (he is of the opinion that the alternator he built can handle this added option running in that range of charge). I ended up buying a red-top Optima battery and he feels that it's one of the toughest batteries out there. However, he just suggested that I keep an eye on the needle gauge and voltmeter every once in awhile. So, with that being said, I suppose as long as I am at the 13V point or above I may keep everything 'as is' for the time being. I'll be sure to follow up with some more test runs, etc. I was along the lines that if the battery is undercharged, then the timing may not be 100% accurate because the system isn't at its best. Personally, I'd like to see a higher reading but one can make the argument that it's a trade-off: to upgrade to fuel-injection something has to give.

Tomorrow's weather looks to be really nice, so I'll be looking to go for a spin. It seems that the accelerator pedal is a little firmer with the new spring hardware assembly and I've noticed that the car warms up faster since the upgrades. Overall, it's about learning / feeling the car all over again to a degree. Regarding the numbers, I suppose having the electronic ignition in addition to this new kit 'may' also play a factor in not having a higher reading on the voltmeter perhaps. As for the battery, I probably should continue to keep it on the battery tender when the car is off in my garage in an effort to try and keep the battery in 'healthy' condition as much as possible. 

Thank you again to everyone for the many posts throughout this project and I'll be sure to post some pics within the coming days,
Aaron  

[Troy]

Just FYI... these units are on sale now:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,122708.0.html

Troy

[Captain D]

That's ironic, lol. I meant to state that when I do a test run, I quickly check the battery reading on the meter and it's at the lower 14V range. In essence, I get a better reading on the battery after reaching higher RPMs vs. at idle (which, at idle it goes back down to 12.9 - 13.3V). Once I get back up to higher RPMs, the reading also goes back up to the 14V range. I realized that my alternator is only a single-field unit. Therefore, without it being a dual field - especially unlike most contemporary vehicles today with all of their latest technologies and more advanced wiring to handle all of the loaded features - it would make sense that I would get a lower reading when sitting at idle with my single-field assembly and it naturally increasing with higher RPMs.