News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Let me pick your brain about brake dist. valves

Started by Charger4404spd, February 27, 2016, 07:59:38 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Charger4404spd

After I installed the 4 piston Wilwood discs last year I was never happy with the performance. I used a cheap off the shelf mc.
Thinking the mc was junk, I finally installed a Wilwood mc with a 1" bore. At the same time I went ahead and plumbed in a line lock.

Bled the brakes and tried the brakes. Braking is much better (in my driveway anyhow) Still have to get a frontend alignment before hitting the road.

The problem now is the line lock. It will not lock the front wheels and while mashing the pedal just before hitting the line lock button, the parking brake lights flashes. I have scratched my head till I am about bald. Anyone think the distribution valve may be the culprit? I do have a prop valve installed.

Side note... I installed another line lock thinking the first one was bad, but same problem.

c00nhunterjoe

How is everything plumbed? Ive found prop valves are typically not needed in 4 wheel disc applications.
Can you describe the line lock application process a little more? You shouldnt jamb on the pedal and grab for the button. Just firmly press the pedal down and while max pressure is held, press the line lock and then release the brake. If that doesnt hold the burnout then it sounds like you may have air still. Are the brakes all new as well as the lines? If so, might need to drive it and seat them in.

Charger4404spd

Disc on front, drums in rear. Factory plumbing, except for the prop valve in installed on rear line between mc and dist block.
The pads are bedding in. I did press brake and press button, even tried pressing brake 3 or 4 times and then pressing line lock button.

Whats got me is the fact that the parking brake light keeps coming on when pressing pedal hard.

c00nhunterjoe

I assume this is a factory drum/drum car? Unscrew the prop valve fully and see how it is.

Charger4404spd

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on February 27, 2016, 10:03:38 PM
I assume this is a factory drum/drum car? Unscrew the prop valve fully and see how it is.

Yes drum drum.
You mean to where all pressure is on front? I will try that tomorrow.

c00nhunterjoe

Ok, drum drum means its definatly a block and not a valve. Whichever way fully opens your proportioning valve, go full open.

firefighter3931

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on February 27, 2016, 10:34:35 PM
Ok, drum drum means its definatly a block and not a valve. Whichever way fully opens your proportioning valve, go full open.


:iagree: Open the valve fully and try it.  :yesnod:

I had problems with mine using the SS Brakes front brake conversion kit. Fought with low hyd pressure and a hard pedal that wouldn't stop the car.  :P

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95452.0.html

Fwiw, I removed the factory distribution block (drum/drum) and used the Hurst roll control line lock. I have the front line from the master going into the linelock and two lines going out...one to each front caliper. The rear brake line goes to the adjustable prop valve which also has a residual pressure valve attached to it then runs to the back drum brakes. I'm also using the Wilwood 1in master cylinder.


Ron

68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Charger4404spd


b5blue

Are your rear brakes adjusted out as far as possible? The light tells you out of balance front to rear. Is that rod centered? Air in the lines?

Charger4404spd

Yes brakes are adjusted out. I will bleed again just to make sure air is out.

Rod centered? Not sure what you mean here.

b5blue

The rod inside the imbalance detector. (Brass block that the light's wire attaches to.) If not centered the light will come on easier. (Like with air in the lines.) The line lock part of your problem IDK?

John_Kunkel


With equal pressure in both the front and rear systems the differential piston (rod) should center itself.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

c00nhunterjoe

Quote from: John_Kunkel on February 28, 2016, 03:53:22 PM

With equal pressure in both the front and rear systems the differential piston (rod) should center itself.

Right, which is another reason i said to try opening the aftermarket prop valve all the way before going any further with diagnosis and or hair pulling.

Charger4404spd

Ok I applied more pressure to rear brakes and that took care of the brake light coming on. I bled the front brakes AGAIN, but the line lock will not lock up the wheels.  :brickwall:

c00nhunterjoe


Charger4404spd


c00nhunterjoe

Good power and good ground? Are you sure the line lock is bleeding off pressure? Can you verify this with the wheels in the air?

Charger4404spd

I can hear the solenoid click, this is the second line lock I have installed and both have the same system. Any chance the distribution block may be bleeding by internally?

c00nhunterjoe

I dont see how but anything is possible. If you suspect that, you could always cap the rear output to test.

Charger4404spd

Ok Im kinda getting used to feeling like a dumbazz ;D
The second line lock is a 4 port and I installed one of the lines in the wrong port :brickwall:
Works like a champ now!
You know men refuse to read instructions! :cheers:

c00nhunterjoe