News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Replacing the Idler Arm - tricks-traps?

Started by john108, February 24, 2016, 09:55:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

john108

Are there any tricks or traps to replace the Idler Arm.
The drag link has been removed.

It looks like just remove the cotter pin, Nut, drive out the bolt, then does it just slide out?
And, does the new one just slide in?

The original one feels very tight and smooth.  I am only replacing it because it is 47-48 years old and more difficult to get to when the engine is in.

Kern Dog

Mine never had a cotter key, just a bolt and a nut with an interference fit.
You should consider a Fast Ratio  Idler and Pitman. They cost a few bucks but they effectively change the steering ratio from 15.7 to 1 to around 12.0 to 1. It sure is great with a Firm Feel stage 3 steering chuck!

birdsandbees

Nope.. no cotter pin. Pic of my '69 before coming apart.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

john108

This is my 1968 Charger Idler Arm.
Where is the interference fit?
Is it the Bolt or the Arm?
Or Both?


Charger_Fan

Quote from: john108 on February 24, 2016, 09:55:13 PM

The original one feels very tight and smooth.  I am only replacing it because it is 47-48 years old and more difficult to get to when the engine is in.
It's a really good chance yours is NOT original. Not unless yours has an OEM part number cast onto the arm. I put two aftermarket ones on my Charger when it was still performing it's daily driver duties, the first time was around 1987. The first one was TRW & the second was Moog, around 1991. The TRW part was an inferior design (sub par to OEM) at the K-frame end & allowed for vertical movement almost from day one.
If your Charger came into your life after say...1995, chances are that arm has been replaced once or twice in it's lifetime...maybe more.
Moog among other aftermarket parts were much closer to OEM in those days.
Since China has come into the picture however, I have no beneficial feedback.

Oh and yes, the press fit part should be at the drag link end, not at the K-frame. This is on the passenger side BTW, do NOT try to bang the end loose from the pitman arm on the steering gearbox. Use a puller...

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

john108

Charger_fan
I bought the Charger in 1968 off the showroom floor.  If I replaced the Idler Arm, it was sooo long ago that I don't remember.
The drag link is removed.  I was just wondering if the remaining bolt thru the idler arm had to be pressed/pounded to drive it out.  I guess I will just go do it and do what it takes. 
The existing arm feels very tight and smooth.  Just wondering if it is as good or better than the new Moog one I ordered.

Charger_Fan

Oh, I see what you're saying. I'm 90% sure the other bolt is straight, so it should push straight through once the nut is removed.

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

Kern Dog

Was the car really in the dealer showroom or from the outside lot?

john108