Who sells the most correct appearing Idler Arm? 1970 Charger/B-body

[bill440rt]

I've had a wanted ad here & on another Mopar forum in search of a NOS idler arm, haven't been too successful.
This is for a '70 Charger, part# would be 2535886 and may have the stamping 2535884 cast on it.

I'm looking into aftermarket replacements, just looking for any input who carries idler arms with the most correct looking appearance?
Much appreciated, thanks! 

[john108]

Bill
I tried some searching and gave up.
I went on Amazon and bought the following:
ACDelco 45C1025 Profesional.
Of all I looked at, it sounded well made.
I doesn't have the same cross-section shape as my original
Idler arm, but does look like my Pitman Arm.
I will know better when I get it as many adds
state that the picture may not be correct.
John

[birdsandbees]

I went out and took a picture of my new PST pitman arm and the arm currently coming off my 'Bee, although by casting number it's a replacement (from 1979). Anyone know which is closer to original shape??

I'll check the idler arm tomorrow, I misread which arm before I went to the shop earlier! 

[birdsandbees]

Here's my idler arms. PST replacement and my original (or at least late 70's) on my '69 Bee. Your mileage may vary... 

[moparjohn]

Bill have you tried Craigs Mobile Parts? 1-516-485-1935

[bill440rt]

Here's my idler arms. PST replacement and my original (or at least late 70's) on my '69 Bee. Your mileage may vary... 

Thanks for the pics, John. 
Biggest problem with lots of these arms, from a "correctness" standpoint is the greaseable zerk fittings (which are probably preferable). Originals did have have these fittings & were not greaseable.

Bill have you tried Craigs Mobile Parts? 1-516-485-1935

Have not, John. But I'll sure give them a whirl.   

[birdsandbees]

Grease it and then cap it to look like the old break offs... or something nice and flush you can probably machine up. My original idler arm has no zerk on it, it's just dirt in a detent on that part.

Wayne

[PlainfieldCharger]

I installed a flush zerk fitting on my aftermarkert idler arm. No break off neccessary.

[odcics2]

Looks like there is a market for a rebuilding service for these... 

[ht4spd307]

hey bill i've been trying to work out what a genuine factory correct one looks like for a long time.as no one has a straight answer i thought my front end was all original but as i looked closer some of the components have been changed i think the only original parts left on my front suspension was 2 ball joints 1 upper and one lower and the  pit man arm ive got heaps of photos of so called untouched  barn finds but yet the original components have been changed .the best reference i found when you see a front end & if it has the original 3 tier castle nuts on the components it usually means its original to the car but not always as sometimes the front end guys reused the castle nuts again .i'm not sure about 70 but i have all genuine nos tie rod ends pitman arm and (1973 wrong) idler arm  none have grease zerks 

[bill440rt]

Looks like there is a market for a rebuilding service for these... 

I did contact Firm Feel & Steer-n-Gear.
They carry reman pitman arms, I have one from SnG in my '69. They told me the idler arms are not servicable. 

[john108]

These pictures show my original Pitman and Idler Arms.

[birdsandbees]

Nice... have you got a straight down shot of your pitman arm?? similar to the way I took mine so I know what's correct.

[bill440rt]

These pictures show my original Pitman and Idler Arms.

My idler looks the same.
Any pics of the new AC Delco one yet? 

[john108]

Bill
The last minute, I changed my mind.
I ordered the MOOG K7041 Idler Arm from Walmart.
I will be able to pick it up at a local store on the 29th.

The picture they show looks like what I believe is my original one.
But who knows.

I am starting another post with a dumb question concerning removing the Idler Arm.
John

[Charger_Fan]

Guys, look closely at the point on the idler where it mounts to the K-frame. Look at the position of the bushings, you want them very near the metal of the frame holes. In the 80's/90's, there was a batch of cheap crap I ran into that was Moog renumbered from who knows who they bought out that month, but blatantly passed off as "good product" of the day.
Total garbage, I hope they are not still in this practice!