Anyone running a QA1 K member? Is it worth while?

[garner7555]

My original K member needs sandblasting, welding up, welding in braces, and powder coating (or painting).  By the time I get all that done I will have at least 300-400 bucks tied up in it.  I can get a QA1 tubular K member for $550 with free shipping.  The down side is that the QA1 k member requires 71 and newer sway bar.  This means I would also have to order a sway bar and swap out lower control arms to the 71+ style.

http://www.qa1.net/mopar-products

QA1 Tubular K Member      $550
QA1 lower control arms     $365
QA1 1.25" sway bar          $200

It turns into 1100 bucks by the time it is said and done, but I would have parts to sell and I would possibly have a better suspension setup too.       I already have tubular upper control arms.   What do you guys think??

[Derwud]

I just ordered QA1 K-Frame and Lower arms. Going to run Hotchkis for everything else. I couldn't find anything bad about the QA1 products and Hotchkis gave it a thumbs up. So we will see. I am also ordering the Borgenson Steering box, so I will only be running the stock center link.

[HPP]

According to the QA1 guys, their K frame is stronger than stock and a little bit lighter. No personal experience with that though...

You can get around ordering 71 style arms by welding on new sway bar mounts. $60 vs $365. You also can shop around for alternate vendors on teh sway bar and save maybe $100 there for a solid style from Addco or Helwig.

[garner7555]

According to the QA1 guys, their K frame is stronger than stock and a little bit lighter. No personal experience with that though...

You can get around ordering 71 style arms by welding on new sway bar mounts. $60 vs $365. You also can shop around for alternate vendors on teh sway bar and save maybe $100 there for a solid style from Addco or Helwig.

Good points.  I might go that route because I have already welded braces on my lower control arms.   

[71charger_fan]

I have one from when they were made by CAP. I really like it. It did crack near the steering box, but the unit's been re-engineered a bit since QA1 bought out CAP and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another if I had another project.

[garner7555]

I have one from when they were made by CAP. I really like it. It did crack near the steering box, but the unit's been re-engineered a bit since QA1 bought out CAP and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another if I had another project.

Well that"s good to hear, even though yours cracked you are still a fan of the product.  You must be pretty darn happy with it.  Do you know if there is much of a weight savings over the factory K member?

[71charger_fan]

I didn't weigh them, but I can tell you the tubular one is certainly easier to lift and carry.

[HPP]

The lightweight and lack of reinforcement is part of the reason QA1 re-engineered them once they bought out CAP. Once the redesign was complete, QA1 admits it weighs only a few pounds less than a stock unit, but they have increased rigidity by double digits and increased room by a fair margin.

[garner7555]

The lightweight and lack of reinforcement is part of the reason QA1 re-engineered them once they bought out CAP. Once the redesign was complete, QA1 admits it weighs only a few pounds less than a stock unit, but they have increased rigidity by double digits and increased room by a fair margin.

So the new design really is drastically stronger than stock?  Is it really strong where the steering box mounts?

[Dino]

I saw a QA1 recently and it looked nice.  I opted to beef up my stock K member though.  My budget can only be blown so many times.   

I added the Firm Feel reinforcement stuff, welded every seam, and I had the frame dipped and e-coated.  Actually I had it dipped twice: once before welding and once after when it was e-coated.  That was a total of $95 I think.

Sandblasting will not get the grime out of the inside and when you start welding those flanges, hot muck will come running out and ruin your welds.  After dipping it was a breeze to weld it up.

After reinforcing it I don't think this steering box is going to budge.  Either way I don't think you can go wrong.  The QA1 seems like a solid piece.  A few pounds difference seems right, the K member is pretty light.

[Mike DC]

  
The stock one has legs bigger around than the tubing used in the aftermarket ones.  That would mean stiffness (not to be confused with strength).  The bottom of the legs would work as skid-plating too, which would probably work better in a wreck or running off the road.  

I'm not saying the QA1 version is bad, but I don't see reason to think it's a big improvement either.  So I would default back to the stock one just because the are no questions about it.

[garner7555]

I saw a QA1 recently and it looked nice.  I opted to beef up my stock K member though.  My budget can only be blown so many times.   

I added the Firm Feel reinforcement stuff, welded every seam, and I had the frame dipped and e-coated.  Actually I had it dipped twice: once before welding and once after when it was e-coated.  That was a total of $95 I think.

Sandblasting will not get the grime out of the inside and when you start welding those flanges, hot muck will come running out and ruin your welds.  After dipping it was a breeze to weld it up.

After reinforcing it I don't think this steering box is going to budge.  Either way I don't think you can go wrong.  The QA1 seems like a solid piece.  A few pounds difference seems right, the K member is pretty light.

Wow that is a good deal for dipping and E-coating.  My problem is that I'm a farmer which means I don't live close to anywhere that could dip or E-coat.  I would end up paying 75-100 bucks to sandblast it, I would make my own stiffening plates out of scraps, and then I would pay 250-350 for a real good powder coating (they would sandblast it again).  So my thinking was if I'm gonna spend 400, give or take, then for $560 I can get the QA1 and not have alot of labor and driving around involved.      My time is hard to come by now, which is another advantage to the QA1.  Thanks for the advice, if I lived anywhere near a facility that could dip it then I would go that route.

[garner7555]

 
The stock one has legs bigger around than the tubing used in the aftermarket ones.  That would mean stiffness (not to be confused with strength).  The bottom of the legs would work as skid-plating too, which would probably work better in a wreck or running off the road.  

I'm not saying the QA1 version is bad, but I don't see reason to think it's a big improvement either.  So I would default back to the stock one just because the are no questions about it.

I fully agree with what you are saying.      5" square tubing with .125" wall thickness is stiffer than 2" square tubing with .5" wall thickness.   I actually bet that you are right, Structurally they are probably similar, the real advantage is the roominess for headers, ect.   

[Dino]

Some places like radiator shops may have the means to dip the frame. You can paint it afterwards yourself instead of e-coating it. If that's not an option then the QA1 may indeed be your better option.

[Kern Dog]

The lower control arms are 1970-1972 B body and 1970-1974 E body. They come in 2 styles: With or without sway bar tabs.

[garner7555]

I decided to buy the QA1 K member.  I will post my thoughts here after I install it.   

[Derwud]

Mine is on the shelf waiting for more parts to do the swap.. I need T/B adjusters and lower ball joint bolts..