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Removing old MP dist and Orange box and replacing with new Firecore RTR

Started by Chippa, February 10, 2016, 08:02:25 PM

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Chippa

Ok wiring is definitely not one of my strong points......so needing some expert advice please  :yesnod:

So new dizzy is in place (thx Ron) and I have started to remove the Orange box and ballast and any associated wiring. The below pic revealed one of the wires actually cut off and going nowhere which concerned me a little as to why it would be like that (Green wire with red/brown stripe, top right hand wire in pin plug) and also the remaining attached wire which looks like it runs back to possibly to bulkhead (blue wire with yellow stripe, bot middle wire on pin plug).

So my questions are what is the function of the wire that has been cut and goes to no mans land and can I cut the blue/yellow wire so Pin plug harness can be removed and I can  get onto wiring the rest of the ignition up !!!

Many thx in advance and looking forward to learning a bit more from you all  :2thumbs:

Cheers A  :cheers:






nascarxx29

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=102245.0 green red wire not used cut off. Blue yellow was on single wire side of ballast for tapping in electronic ignition remaining 2 wires gray and brown went to mopar electronic dist pick up leeds.   


1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

Post mentioned using the existing mopar electronic ignition harness. Dist has same plug as mopar electronic.  https://www.customwiresets.com/home.php?cat=252
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

b5blue

  I've a 70 Charger, I tied start and run under the dash together as RTR has full 12V coil. (Now resistor not needed.) Chuck the ECU as the RTR has ECU in Dizzy. I fed the now bonded start/run to a 40amp control relay. I fed ignition by tapping the ALT. output wire (Large black) to feed ignition +12V and added a 15amp fuse inline.
  The key turns on the relay and ignition is fed by ALT. output. Simple and effective.  :2thumbs: You can cobble up a repair and test operation first with not much effort and then figure out exact location of relay (Mines on the firewall.) and what to do with all the not needed inter wiring after verifying operation.  :2thumbs: (I hacked mine out and will modify harness later.) 

Chippa

Thx for the replies nascarxx29 and b5blue  :2thumbs:

I have now terminated that wire that is spliced into the left ballast wire and will join them up and continue on with the rest of the installation  :2thumbs:

Cheers A  :cheers: