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Battery or alternator?

Started by johnnycharger, February 01, 2016, 07:58:00 PM

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johnnycharger

Hi guys
my battery keeps going dead on me. if I can jump start and drive it home but then not start it again without being jumped(or hooked to the battery tender... is that a sign of a dead battery and if the alternator is OK? If I have it on the tender overnight it is good for 2 or 3 starts before it is dead again.

nascarxx29

Take battery out get full charged and load tested out at auto parts store if its more than 3 years old replace it.Then you can sort out if its the alternator regulator or a connection problem
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Back N Black

Do you have a multi meter? check with engine running, should have 13.5 to 14 volts at the battery.

johnnycharger


Quote from: nascarxx29 on February 01, 2016, 08:19:01 PM
Take battery out get full charged and load tested out at auto parts store if its more than 3 years old replace it.Then you can sort out if its the alternator regulator or a connection problem


My battery is 4 years old but I am hoping not to buy a new one if it is still good....


Quote from: Back N Black on February 01, 2016, 08:36:47 PM
Do you have a multi meter? check with engine running, should have 13.5 to 14 volts at the battery.

I have a meter and can try this tomorrow after charging it overnight.  Currently if I put the meter on it states over 12v but as soon as I try to start it the volts drop to 3-4 volts and it doesn't crank...

A383Wing

sounds like bad battery or corroded or bad cable connections at the battery terminals or on the engine

johnnycharger

If it is the battery.... what CCA rating do you guys recommend? Currently I have 810.

lukedukem

i had my car do this also. it wouldn't start one day, and i had to jump it. kept doing it. turned out it was a bad ground. i cleaned my battery connections and the connection where the ground went and i fired right up. not sure if your is the same issue, but its a cheap easy test to do.

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

johnnycharger

Quote from: Back N Black on February 01, 2016, 08:36:47 PM
Do you have a multi meter? check with engine running, should have 13.5 to 14 volts at the battery.

Just checked with it running and the voltage at the battery is he same as when it is off. About 12.5

Back N Black

sound like a voltage regulator issue. Could be bad ground, wiring or the regulator.

A383Wing

Quote from: Back N Black on February 02, 2016, 08:19:50 PM
sound like a voltage regulator issue. Could be bad ground, wiring or the regulator.

could be bad alternator also

nascarxx29

Once you establish battery is good .check grounds and power to alternator and regulator,And bulkhead and amp gauuge connections .alt could have a bad diode or slipping belt.Take out alt to parts store for a free evaluation
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

johnnycharger

Quote from: nascarxx29 on February 01, 2016, 08:19:01 PM
Take battery out get full charged and load tested out at auto parts store if its more than 3 years old replace it.Then you can sort out if its the alternator regulator or a connection problem

My battery was more than three years old so I pulled the trigger on a new Interstate Megatron and that seems to have fixed it. Fired right up over a dozen or so times. Cranks noticibly faster now too!
Thanks guys! :cheers:

Back N Black

Did you check the volts at the battery after you installed the new battery? With the new battery being much stronger than the old one, you still could be running just on battery power.

nascarxx29

Do you have 13.5.   14 volts at battery cables now  and check your amp gauge to see if its indicating charging.I had just been thru similar problem battey had a bad cell.It was easier to start by having battery  evaulated.
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

johnnycharger

Quote from: Back N Black on February 03, 2016, 08:10:13 AM
Did you check the volts at the battery after you installed the new battery? With the new battery being much stronger than the old one, you still could be running just on battery power.

I checked it again both running and not. I got about 12.5 still each time.

nascarxx29

Is your battery voltage same as running or not 12.5 .check it with lights on at idle
you might have a bad diode in alt.And giving it gas does amp gauge show increase of charging.you want 13.5 or slightly higher
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Pete in NH

Hi,

I would say then your alternator system is not producing any output and your new battery will soon be as dead as the old one.

Some time spent doing some actual trouble shooting will save you money, rather than changing parts until things work again. I didn't see that you mentioned what year car you are working on. There are two common alternator/regulator systems and each one has slightly different test procedures. So, first question what year car and is it the stock alternator/regulator system for that year?

nascarxx29

He should pull alternator  go to a parts store for free they will test it.And as you find out you might to change regulator.If its original .


Seen a older post mentioned 70 flat black charger with tan interior .If thats you you should have a 2 field alternator and flat type voltage regulator
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

A383Wing

Quote from: johnnycharger on February 03, 2016, 09:27:51 AM
Quote from: Back N Black on February 03, 2016, 08:10:13 AM
Did you check the volts at the battery after you installed the new battery? With the new battery being much stronger than the old one, you still could be running just on battery power.

I checked it again both running and not. I got about 12.5 still each time.

12.5 volts when engine is running means the battery is NOT being charged.....you will have another dead battery if you don't find out why it's not being charged

johnnycharger




This can't be helping my alternator any.


johnnycharger

It is a 70 charger. There are 2 electrical connections on the alternator plus what looks like a ground lug which has come free inside and I can move around.

birdsandbees

That's not a ground lug.. that's your "B" lead to the battery. The '70 has dual Field connections, which are the other two wires. Looks like someone wrenched on that B lead nut without holding the post nut. Probably an easy fix if you have a local electrical shop that rebuilds alternators and starters.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Pete in NH

You can try tightening up that output stud bolt. Before you do anything disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. I would take the alternator off the engine as it will be easier to work on. There should be two nuts on that output stud, one holds the wire ring terminal on and the inner one keeps the stud tight internally. After removing the outer nut you may be able to tighten the inner one. If it just keeps spinning you will have to disassemble the alternator to tighten it.

This loose stud may or may not be the complete problem but you certainly need to correct before going any further.

johnnycharger

The alternator had a lifetime warranty on it so I swapped it out. I am now getting 15v at the battery when running and 13v when off.
Thank you all for the help# :2thumbs: :cheers:

myk


69wannabe

Seems a little high to me too, may also need to replace the regulator to get the voltage somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5 while the engine is running. Just thinking, when you first start the engine and check the battery voltage it may be a little higher like that until it fully charges the battery and then it will drop back down to 13-14 volts. I may be wrong tho.....

A383Wing

also depends on if he's using a good quality meter or a cheap one from China

johnnycharger

I am using a good fluke meter. I checked it immediately upon firing it up. I will run it longer and do more checks to see if it is consistently high.

nascarxx29

Could be voltage regulator acting up or not grounded if readings are to high 14.5 volts ok
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

johnnycharger

After running it a bit it is now reading at 14.4/14.5 while idling.
(Sorry for the delayed response)
Thanks for the help with this guys!