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I think I fried my ballast resistor

Started by Barfyspitz, January 16, 2016, 09:52:58 PM

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Barfyspitz

  I could us some help on my ignition system. I went to fire up my 68 which has a big block running the Orange box. It wouldn't start. It was running like a champ a couple of weeks ago.  I pulled the number one plug and there was no spark. I used a test light and saw I had power to the coil on the positive  post.  I wasn't sure if it was the orange box since the coil had power but I've read the Orange box is notorious for failing so I pulled an old blue box off the shelf and hooked it up to try that one.  I noticed it was sparking against the firewall as I screwed it in. Quick observation...., I notice the screws seemed to have lost their ability to be picked up by a magnet like they were demagnetized since they rolled right out of the magnet tray.(any thoughts)??  I had the key on the on position and I heard a hissing sound and smoke and sizzling began to come from the ballast resistor.  I imagine the ballast resistor is shot since it was too hot to touch.  I disconnected the battery quickly.    I am using a MSD to blaster II coil and the upgraded ballast resistor that comes in the kit.  I ordered a new ballast resistor and orange box. In the meantime I could sure use some knowledgeable insight from our members to any possible problems that I'm probably unaware of that could've caused this so I don't fry any new parts. I probably shouldn't have hurried  and left the key on the on position. Im worried what else I fried. The motor still turns Over so there's some hope lol. I'm a novice at best and wiuld really appreciate it If anyone can offer some advice or expertise. Thanks guys.

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Barfyspitz

 Well I change the ECU and the ballast resistor.  no change.  it seems worse now since I tested it with the old ECU I had on the shelf. That's the first time when the original ballast resistor began to sizzling pop. I wonder if  the old blue box fried a wire somewhere. I installed the new ECU and resistor and now I'm not seeing power to The right terminal of the ballast resistor with my test light.

nascarxx29

Key on ballast single wire  has power you can teslight other double wire will have it and dim when you crank it
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Barfyspitz

Thanks man inappreciate it! However do the ballast resisters get so hot to touch? And you say  the wire on the left should have light a testlight in the run position and the brown/blue on the right should have it on inthe run position but flicker when cranking?

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701