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lowering the front end of a 1969 charger

Started by Classic69, January 07, 2016, 10:22:14 AM

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Classic69

I want to know how to lower the front of the car and and what brand of coils to use. Some people have said just to adjust the t-bars
:shruggy:

garner7555

The charger don't have coil springs, they have torsion bars instead.  You can adjust ride height on the torsion bars to a certain degree but if you want to drop a lot you will need to buy lowering spindles or lowering torsion bars.  I put PST 1.03 torsion bars on my car and these lower the front pretty substantially   
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Lennard

Don't forget to re align your car after lowering it.


WHITE AND RED 69

Make sure you lift the car up before you mess with the adjuster bolts. You'll strip the bolts if the weight of the car is on the ground.
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Dino

Lowering torsion bars?  How does that work?   :scratchchin:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

garner7555

Quote from: Dino on January 07, 2016, 10:55:55 PM
Lowering torsion bars?  How does that work?   :scratchchin:

Each torsion bar has a adjuster located in the lower control arm. Loosen the bolt to lower the car, tighten the bolt to raise the car. Sometimes the bolts need to be adjusted slightly different from side to side to get the car to sit level from left to right.   Maybe that makes sense.  :shruggy:
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Dino

I thought you were talking about special torsion bars here instead of using the bars to lower the car.  I must've been tired.   :lol:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

garner7555

Some aftermarket torsion bars do lower the car.  The 1.03 PST bars I used lower the car quite a bit.  they are clocked slightly on the end to give you a lower stance.   :2thumbs:
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 07, 2016, 02:26:55 PM
Make sure you lift the car up before you mess with the adjuster bolts. You'll strip the bolts if the weight of the car is on the ground.

OOPS

Kern Dog

 I always spray mine with a WD40 type lubricant so the bolts are not under such tension. I usually have them set too tight and the car sits too high, then I have to back off the adjuster screw/bolt to get the height where I like it.

birdsandbees

I've cranked mine up and down many times over the years and have never lifted the wheel off the ground to do so. Adjusters still turn as smooth as silk after 46 years, as I just backed them right off to pull my torsion bars.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Highbanked Hauler

Quote from: Lennard on January 07, 2016, 11:34:40 AM
Don't forget to re align your car after lowering it.

    I have put in 2 in. drop spindles and tubular upper control arms in mine and have a HUGE negative camber issue which I am going to solve. There is a long thread on front end alignment  in this section that you should read before starting your project.
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser

Highbanked Hauler

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 07, 2016, 02:26:55 PM
Make sure you lift the car up before you mess with the adjuster bolts. You'll strip the bolts if the weight of the car is on the ground.

   Definitely, rusted threads can drop you,it happened to me.
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser