engine damage due to hot running

[don duick]

The heater hose blown a hole whilst driving. I did not realise until I saw the steam. Was on a busy road and could not stop, so I estimated I drove for about 5 minutes with no water. The engine did not sieze and runs ok. My question is does anyone know if I have done damage to the bores, pistons, rings or the aluminium heads ?  

[ws23rt]

I have several stories about an engine overheating to the point of seizing and after cooling off seamed to run just fine for many thousands of miles.

My assumption in these cases is the aluminium pistons expanded in the bores locking up the engine.

If an engine seized at the crank bearings that would likely come from lack of oil as opposed to expansion. It also would lead to a short useful future of driving plearure

It's hard to say how significant your damage is. It's time to pay close attention to your oil consumption. If that stays low and their are no new knocking sounds you might be fine for a long time.

BTW My experience and opinion about this are with the old school engines.

[birdsandbees]

I blew a lower frost plug on my way to my final exam in 1982. Drove half way across Toronto (Keele to 27) and then back later in the day, stopping at an automotive shop on the way back to buy a new plug and antifreeze. Had the same motor running.. TODAY! 

[charger Downunder]

How high did the temp gauge go maybe it was squirting on the exhaust and producing steam.

[don duick]

temp guage hit 220 don't usually see my temp guage as it is hidden in the glove box , yes I know stupid place , thanks for replies.

[1974dodgecharger]

im sorry had to laugh at that your temp gauge in the glove box 


220 your fine...they say 230 to 240 you should worry....I had mine at 240 one time (under a minute) because I forgot to turn on my fans....just change the oil afterwards.

[440]

I blew a hose off the water pump in an old ford and drove it all the way home without knowing, only discovering it the next day when I backed up in my driveway to go to work.

I still drive the car daily.

[tan top]

 bummer !! sorry to hear this DD

while ive  had fan belts snap    , blown a radiator hoses off , had 2 waterpump bearings fail / pump fell to bits    at speed  & pegged the temperature gauge before I could shut the motor off & or coast & stop in a safe place etc   ,  all the motors survived this , but all were old type , with iron heads ,  (most / all I think now ) modern cars  aluminium heads , have only got the think about over heating , & the heads warp or crack , mainly warp , ( don't get me wrong seen lots of iron heads do the same , because of over heating , )
some manufactures , even say  to check head for straightness , every time  the head comes off  ( flatness) even though its never been over heated . having said all this  , the aftermarket aluminium heads for our mopars , always say have a thick deck surface , to help against warping & more metal for milling etc .

I would run a compression check ,  pull the dip stick , look at the oil  , if looks ok , fill it with water & check for bubbles , if all checks out ok , change oil & drain & refill  with antifreeze  1 to 1 , or your favourite  mix

fingers crossed you have got away with out doing any damage  

[440]

Don from FBO told me a while ago to run an alloy head engine hotter then iorn due to the heat dissipation of alloy heads, he said 230* was fine. I struggle with this but that's what he said.

[don duick]

thanks for all the replies and advice. The car is a 70 charger with 440 and 440 source heads. the pistons are KB hypertectics. I will change the oil.