One more disc brake conversion post.

[rikubot]

Hi fellers, I've got a '69 charger big block car with power drums all the way around. I want to upgrade to power discs up front on a budget. I found a decent kit on the Performance Online website. Here's the kit:

https://www.performanceonline.com/62-74-MOPAR-Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit/

My questions: will this work with my factory drum pedal linkage? I have a factory disc master as well. Will this work? I will need to get a new booster as well as a proportioning valve. I found a booster eBay that might work. Can I pick your brains about the parts I've got posted up? Experiences or criticisms or endorsements welcome! 

Here's the booster:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Brake-Booster-Vacuum-w-o-Master-Cylinder-CARDONE-54-73603-Reman-/271948741122?hash=item3f51687a02:g:v3oAAOSwPcVVwM0V&vxp=mtr

Thanks in advance!

[Mopar Nut]

The booster looks right, here's the same one here http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBH3/5473603.oap?ck=Search_54-73603_-1_750&keyword=54-73603

For the longest time AutoZone and O'reilly's was sold out. 

[rikubot]

I think I looked just a week ago and they were out. I have an Oreillys just down the street. It's a good price but it looks like there's a core charge as well. I found another on eBay for 123 shipped, I think it's the same one. I'll probably end up getting one of these either way.  Do you have any experiences with the brake kit?

[c00nhunterjoe]

That is the exact kit i used on my car. No booster so i cant comment other then my manual brakes stop great with minimal effort, not just on the street, but at 108 in the 1/4 also.

[ACUDANUT]

That is the exact kit i used on my car. No booster so i cant comment other then my manual brakes stop great with minimal effort, not just on the street, but at 108 in the 1/4 also.

Disc or drum ?

[c00nhunterjoe]

The basic disc kit on the front he posted, and stock drums in the rear.

[Dino]

The booster looks right, here's the same one here http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBH3/5473603.oap?ck=Search_54-73603_-1_750&keyword=54-73603

For the longest time AutoZone and O'reilly's was sold out. 

It's listed as a single diaphragm.  That can't be right!

[rikubot]

Hold the phone, am I about to buy the wrong stuff?!

[Dino]

I don't know.  Those boosters looke like the old Bendix style that came on disc/drum cars and they were a dual diaphragm type.  They had increased line pressure over the smaller single diaphragm drum/drum boosters because of the increased pressure demand of the calipers vs drums.  I looked on other sites at this booster and it is intended for disc/drum cars so maybe some sites are using generic descriptions of boosters.

Contact Cardone and ask if their 54-73603 model is a dual diaphragm or not.  It should be just looking at the size of it.

[rikubot]

I tried to check out the site for Cardone brake parts, but the site seems to freak out. I looked at quite a few pics in Google of brake boosters on disc chargers, and in about 1/3 of them, they had a real similar looking booster. Dino, are you/have you painted your booster and master?

[Mopar Nut]

Good catch Dino, if I was you I wouldn't chance it. Call Cass at Dr. Diff www.doctordiff.com he sells repop ones. Or buy a rebuilt original Bendix dual booster from Booster Dewey http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com

[rikubot]

If it's the right booster, I'll probably end up getting one of those remanufactued units off eBay and probably get that disc kit from Performance Online. Still cold here, so I'll do the paint thing while I'm waiting to slap it all on. I'm hating this cold weather like crazy.

[Dino]

I'm going with a hydroboost.  If I'd had a disc booster I'd paint it but I'd probably leave the MC natural.  Just personal preference though, mopar painted all of it black.

[Mopar Nut]

Should look like this.

[rikubot]

@coonhunter, I read on a forum that this kit sets your wheels out another inch. Is it really noticeable or does it cause rubbing issues? I have 15x7s with 4.25 inch bs and 225/70s on them. The clearance is just fine for as of right now. Also, how different is the breaking than the drums?

[rikubot]

Should look like this.

Ok cool that looks like the one I've been looking at. I'm going to message the seller to see if it's a dual diaphragm or not.

Dino, any particular reason you are changing to hydro boost?

[Dino]

I don't really care about originality on this car and the hydroboost puts out way more pressure than a vacuum booster.  I didn't have either system and figured I could build a hydro system fairly cheap.

[lukedukem]

rikubot, which proportioning valve are you going with?

Luke

[rikubot]

Luke, I wasn't sure yet which to go with. I've been looking at a couple on eBay for around $70. I think they are the stock equivalent. The one I'm looking at now is part number BLK244 but I'm not sure it will work. It says disc and drum but I think they are built specific. I gotta keep doing some Lookin around.

[lukedukem]

ok, i will check back in to see what you did. I've too have a '69 charger big block car with power drums all the way around, and would like to swap using the kit you have in the first post. i also thought about this kit
http://www.mpbrakes.com/1969-dodge-charger-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-legend-series?filter_name=

but it is a lot more money. but includes everything you need, booster, valve, new master cylinder. ect. but the price is up there.
maybe c00nhunterjoe can fill us in on what he bought.

Luke

[Dino]

For a disc/drum setup you need a few things: a drum/drum car has a brass distribution block with safety switch.  It simply routes fluid to each wheel.  In order to run discs up front you need to add a proportioning valve and a metering, or hold off, valve. 

You have a few options.  One is to install a combo valve, be it a universal GM type, the PV2, or  a cast iron unit from a later model mopar.  Both work but you'll have to adapt the brake lines to fit.  Not a big deal if you're good with brake line plumbing but it's an extra step you'll have to do. 

Another option is to replicate the stock Charger disc/drum setup and there were two version of this.  The first is you keep the stock distribution block and add a metering valve between it and the MC, and you add a proportioning valve in the front to rear line.  The second option is to replace the distribution block with a later model block that has the proportioning valve built it.  They look almost identical but the latter has an extra piece on the bottom.  Now you don't add the separate valve in the rear line but you do still add the metering valve.

And then there's the way so many people do it: you keep the stock distribution block, add an adjustable prop valve in the rear line and call it a day.  You also may want to add a 10# residual pressure valve in the rear line to keep the rear shoes closer to the drum so in effect the brake pedal stays higher and will require less travel to stop the car.

So do you want it looking stock?  I'd go with option two: get the later model distribution/prop combo and the metering valve.

Whatever you choose you'll have to get the matching brake lines.  Right Stuff has all the kits in various configurations.  All you need to do is check if your front line runs over or under the passenger side frame rail, and if the MC ports are on the left or right side.  I just ordered the front lines as well but RS was out of stock.  Turns out JEGS was a few bucks cheaper and they have all of them.   

[c00nhunterjoe]

I used the kit in the link posted at 399. Manual brakes. I did NOT install a proportioning valve. Even on standard radials it stops without issue. I currently have skinnies up front and 11" stickies out back with no issues either. Front front rims i currently have 7" wheels up front but did have 8.5s and 245 tires without issue. I did not measure to see if there was an offset difference going from drum to this disc kit.

[rikubot]

Damn, all that is adding up in a big hurry. I may hold off on the disc conversion for now and just get a new booster for my drums. I'll probably just get the smalls for the conversion here and there, then do the big stuff once I have more cash. I'm still on the fence with all the options now too, from Dino's Scarebird and hydro boost setup to the full package swaps.

[rikubot]

For a disc/drum setup you need a few things: a drum/drum car has a brass distribution block with safety switch.  It simply routes fluid to each wheel.  In order to run discs up front you need to add a proportioning valve and a metering, or hold off, valve. 

You have a few options.  One is to install a combo valve, be it a universal GM type, the PV2, or  a cast iron unit from a later model mopar.  Both work but you'll have to adapt the brake lines to fit.  Not a big deal if you're good with brake line plumbing but it's an extra step you'll have to do. 

Another option is to replicate the stock Charger disc/drum setup and there were two version of this.  The first is you keep the stock distribution block and add a metering valve between it and the MC, and you add a proportioning valve in the front to rear line.  The second option is to replace the distribution block with a later model block that has the proportioning valve built it.  They look almost identical but the latter has an extra piece on the bottom.  Now you don't add the separate valve in the rear line but you do still add the metering valve.

And then there's the way so many people do it: you keep the stock distribution block, add an adjustable prop valve in the rear line and call it a day.  You also may want to add a 10# residual pressure valve in the rear line to keep the rear shoes closer to the drum so in effect the brake pedal stays higher and will require less travel to stop the car.

So do you want it looking stock?  I'd go with option two: get the later model distribution/prop combo and the metering valve.

Whatever you choose you'll have to get the matching brake lines.  Right Stuff has all the kits in various configurations.  All you need to do is check if your front line runs over or under the passenger side frame rail, and if the MC ports are on the left or right side.  I just ordered the front lines as well but RS was out of stock.  Turns out JEGS was a few bucks cheaper and they have all of them.   

Anyone else wondering how Dino knows so much? Lol

I'm not really a stickler on stock looks. I really like the the vintage look, but like you, I would rather have better performance than the stock stuff especially with braking.

[Dino]

The little I know about brakes, and many other things, is learned from others here and from countless hours of reading up on it.  This stuff wll make your head spin.

My hydroboost unit is on its way so brakes will be my next project.  There will be another write up like I did with the grille but it'll be a while.