400 stroker build

[Pouria]

As mentioned in another topic, I got a bare 400 block a few years ago and would like to build a powerful stroker out of it. I have nothing for this block but I have all the parts from the original 340 engine out of my 73 Charger.

I would like to receive your comments and guidelines about the below item:
1- What is the most suitable power and torque target for a streetable engine that acts like a blue-blood in low RPMs? I would like to have 600+ but
2- What would be the suitable CID for this build? Some say that the bigger the better! But it doesn't seem to be the correct answer to me. I love 512CI but again
3- What would be the correct setup of CAM, Heads and pistons and finally the correct compression ratio to run smooth with 91 Octane pump gas?
I will send the pictures from the casting numbers on the block soon. Does the cylinder wall thickness play an important role in choosing the right power and torque target of the build? I have the ultrasonic thickness meter but I dont know exactly witch part of the cylinder is the most important to measure. If someone can guide me, I will measure the thicknesse and send them here to get your opinions.
Thanks - Pouria

[XH29N0G]

I switched to a 451 from a 383 in the 500 hp range and am generally happy with it, but it is a different engine than before - more different than I would expected.  I love the power, but it has different noises and sounds (drivetrain and pistons).  My builder made it a little loose with forger pistons so I always feel like I should bring it to temperature before heading out.  It means I idle for 10-15 min before heading out on weekend drives.  Maybe this is not necessary.  It means I don't just hop in and go.  It also is not something I can stomp on anywhere (I am in an urban/suburban setting).  Would I go back to the old set up.  Probably not, unless I planned on driving it more than on weekends.     I do not have recommendations for your  build, but thought my experience might be useful in deciding. 

[AKcharger]

I went with a 470 Stroker kit from 440source and have been happy. don't know the #'s but car is just a show/cruiser not a racer car but it moves into traffic VERY well. with the noise comments. When I first got the engine in I thought I had rod knock or something, seems that's standard with the shorter pistons till it warms up

[heyoldguy]

 You can answer many of your own questions by going to the 'Proven Engines Combos' section and picking some results you like. Did you plan on using some of the parts from the 340 or did you mean 440? 340 parts don't fit the 400.

[Pouria]

I switched to a 451 from a 383 in the 500 hp range and am generally happy with it, but it is a different engine than before - more different than I would expected.  I love the power, but it has different noises and sounds (drivetrain and pistons).  My builder made it a little loose with forger pistons so I always feel like I should bring it to temperature before heading out.  It means I idle for 10-15 min before heading out on weekend drives.  Maybe this is not necessary.  It means I don't just hop in and go.  It also is not something I can stomp on anywhere (I am in an urban/suburban setting).  Would I go back to the old set up.  Probably not, unless I planned on driving it more than on weekends.     I do not have recommendations for your  build, but thought my experience might be useful in deciding. 

Thank you very much to share your experience with me I will build a stroker for sure, but need tips like this for a right setup.

I went with a 470 Stroker kit from 440source and have been happy. don't know the #'s but car is just a show/cruiser not a racer car but it moves into traffic VERY well. with the noise comments. When I first got the engine in I thought I had rod knock or something, seems that's standard with the shorter pistons till it warms up

Did you buy the complete kit and used all the supplied parts? Or did some replacement with other parts? Did you meet any problems with your build? I wish you could give me some idea about the HP and torque you got. May I know the carb, heads, intakes and headers you used?

You can answer many of your own questions by going to the 'Proven Engines Combos' section and picking some results you like. Did you plan on using some of the parts from the 340 or did you mean 440? 340 parts don't fit the 400.

Thanks for your comment, I am studying the Proven Engines Combos at the same time very carefully. I knew 340 and 400 parts are not interchangable, but becasue I have only a bare block and nothing else, I thought I may be able to use some parts from the 340, even a single bolt!

[BSB67]

First three and most important steps:

1)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,
2)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,
3)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,

If you have any questions on this, please ask.

The knowledgeable professionals on here will likely take exception to this, but, don't get hung up on which bearings, who's rods, who's pistons, who's crank........, that is what one through three above is for.  There are several manufactures/suppliers of this stuff that are generally okay at a decent price point, relatively speaking, and it is your machinist that you want to make sure that the stuff is right.  I get concerned when folks on here post questions to us when they are in the middle or at the end of their build.

If your looking for that power and it to be lower rpm, more docile at idle and cruise speed, then go with 500+ ci.in.

I was typing out a combo to get to 600+ hp, then I looked at what Heyoldguy posted yesterday, and it was virtually the same.

[Pouria]

First three and most important steps:

1)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,
2)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,
3)   Use a good machine shop that is knowledgeable in making Mopar power,

If you have any questions on this, please ask.

The knowledgeable professionals on here will likely take exception to this, but, don't get hung up on which bearings, who's rods, who's pistons, who's crank........, that is what one through three above is for.  There are several manufactures/suppliers of this stuff that are generally okay at a decent price point, relatively speaking, and it is your machinist that you want to make sure that the stuff is right.  I get concerned when folks on here post questions to us when they are in the middle or at the end of their build.

If your looking for that power and it to be lower rpm, more docile at idle and cruise speed, then go with 500+ ci.in.

I was typing out a combo to get to 600+ hp, then I looked at what Heyoldguy posted yesterday, and it was virtually the same.

Well, that's exactly what I am missing here in Iran! No machine shops doing specially Mopars here! As mentioned, I love 512ci but am concerned on the type of the parts I need to buy. The good point about me is I still didn't touch anything and am exactly at the start line! Please type out the combo, at least it gives me some idea.

Thanks

[AKcharger]

Hi Pouria!
- I used the entire 470 kit (crank, pistons and Rods) and balanced all from 440 source
- Had local shop, somewhat knowledgeable in MOPARS put it together
- 440 source "cheater" heads with an Aluminum water pump and "Torker" intake
- Cam is an Engle K-56H .504 lift 252 duration
- For streetablity I went with Cast Iron HP exhaust manifolds and an Edelbrock 600 carb. That costs me in power but I like the quiet ease of installation

Sorry about H.P./Torque # never had a chance to run it across a dyno

Here's the engine running "cold" you can hear that noise we were talking about common with shorter pistons...clears up in a few minutes

[Pouria]

Hi Pouria!
- I used the entire 470 kit (crank, pistons and Rods) and balanced all from 440 source
- Had local shop, somewhat knowledgeable in MOPARS put it together
- 440 source "cheater" heads with an Aluminum water pump and "Torker" intake
- Cam is an Engle K-56H .504 lift 252 duration
- For streetablity I went with Cast Iron HP exhaust manifolds and an Edelbrock 600 carb. That costs me in power but I like the quiet ease of installation

Sorry about H.P./Torque # never had a chance to run it across a dyno

Here's the engine running "cold" you can hear that noise we were talking about common with shorter pistons...clears up in a few minutes

Thank you very much for the useful info Why did you call their heads as a "cheater"? Didn't you meet any problems with the single plane intake in street use? Did the smaller CFM carb give you smooth low RPM result?

[AKcharger]

Oh...good question! they're called cheater heads because they look totally stock but they're actually Aluminum and based on 915 casting if I'm correct.  The single plane intake would have been better but I had that one laying around and it's worked fine. The lil' 600 is just easy, take it out of the box, put it on and drive away. Of course you need to adjust the mixture and idle a bit but it's WAAAAAAY easier than a Holley.

When I want to get serious I'll install headers and install a Demon 750...but I'm happy with what I got

any more questions let me know

[heyoldguy]

Oh...good question! they're called cheater heads because they look totally stock but they're actually Aluminum and based on 915 casting if I'm correct.  The single plane intake would have been better but I had that one laying around and it's worked fine. The lil' 600 is just easy, take it out of the box, put it on and drive away. Of course you need to adjust the mixture and idle a bit but it's WAAAAAAY easier than a Holley.

When I want to get serious I'll install headers and install a Demon 750...but I'm happy with what I got

any more questions let me know

Ah, the ports and combustion chamber of the Stealth head appear to based on the Edelbrock RPM cylinder head and are nothing like the 915. The external appearance is cast similar to the factory 915 iron head.