Switched 12V circuit at ignition switch that is hot during "key on" & "cranking"

[WHITE AND RED 69]

On a 2nd gen b body which wires on the ignition switch are hot during "key on" and "cranking"?

[b5blue]

brown=cranking/start    blue=run

[WHITE AND RED 69]

So where do you tap in to have both cranking and key on at the same time?

Is there a spot on the fuse block?

[John_Kunkel]

There is no hot circuit at the switch, only way is to splice the blue (IGN 1) and brown (IGN2) wires together or solder a jumper across the terminals at the switch; doing either eliminates the function of the ballast resistor which is OK for systems like MSD.  

[Dino]

Clayton I did this with my car.  Under the dash you can remove the blue and brown wires from the bulkhead connector and join them together into a single packard 56 connector and reinsert into one of the two free slots.  On the engine side run a new 12 gauge wire from that slot to your coil.  Nice and clean.  It takes some gymnastics to get the bulkhead connector back into place with the darn a/c box in the way of just about everything, but it's nothing you haven't done before.   

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Clayton I did this with my car.  Under the dash you can remove the blue and brown wires from the bulkhead connector and join them together into a single packard 56 connector and reinsert into one of the two free slots.  On the engine side run a new 12 gauge wire from that slot to your coil.  Nice and clean.  It takes some gymnastics to get the bulkhead connector back into place with the darn a/c box in the way of just about everything, but it's nothing you haven't done before.   

Thanks Dirk     I might just go that route. Doesn't seem too difficult...

[Dino]

It's pretty straightforward.  I released he bulkhead connector from the firewall nd lid it on the floorboard.  I think there was a clip holding the wiring to the a/c box, I can't recall now.  The blue wire you need goes to terminal N and the brown one goes to terminal Q.  When looking at the front of the bulkhead connector they are on the middle connector, bottom row, 1st from the left and 3rd from the left respectively.  I removed both terminals, snipped off the packards, joined the wires an crimped/soldered them into a packard 56 12 gauge terminal.  Pick either N or Q and run a new wire from there.  No muss no fuss.   

Once I was done I put the bulkhead connector on top of the a/c box and grabbed it from the engine side to pull it into place.  It was too much of a hassle trying to push it in from the dash side.  Secure your wires and you're done.   

[Nacho-RT74]

the only wire getting hot at both stances is actually the one to the coil, JUST if ballast is connected.

this wire is enough to "turn on" the MSD ECU module or any similar one.

everybody tipically removes the ballast to splice blue and brown arriving to, but IS NOT necesary (clearly the Instruction sheet states the coil wire is enough ), unless just for clean look you want to get rid off the firewall.

[John_Kunkel]

Not only for a clean look but it eliminates another trouble-prone component.

[Nacho-RT74]

well. I never have had any ballast problem in 16 years. And is/was a driver

[SRT-440]

Bochillion Performance (spelling) sells a relay kit to fix this..I had to buy one cuz my ECU's need a constant 12v at start up and run postion.