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Removing the valve body

Started by J-440, November 27, 2015, 04:15:26 PM

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J-440

 Have a 727 auto and need to do a pressure test.  Do I have to drop the tranny to remove the valve body? It looks like there's a shaft going through the shift lever and then through the valve body. If I remove that, the body should just come out right?
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

Dino

Yes, no need to drop the trans.
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John_Kunkel


Before you remove the VB, place the shifter in Park and turn the driveshaft until you hear/feel it drop into Park. This will make the park rod easier to remove/install.
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J-440

68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

J-440

 John, I did a pressure test of both bands.  The smaller one (don't know the technical term but it looks like the head of a hammer kinda) moved quickly with pressure from the gun (30psi) while the larger one slowly went back into position.  Does the larger one need more adjustment so it moves more quickly like the smaller one?  I'm watching a series on YouTube and theirs move quickly according to the air pressure.  Am I making sense? Thanks again for your help.
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

John_Kunkel


Are you using a rubber-tipped blow gun? Both should move briskly but the check is also about audible leakage. (air escaping with constant pressure applied)
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J-440

 Yes, rubber tip and no leakage.  Just the rear line pressure clutch (?) retracts slower than the front one.  Guess I'll loosen the bolt and nut for adjustment?
 
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

John_Kunkel


When you're checking the retraction is the rubber tip still plugged in? If so, it will retract more slowly than if the tip is withdrawn quickly. The rear servo has rubber lip seals but the front seals are metal-to-metal sealing rings.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

J-440

 Thanks for the input John, I'll double check it tomorrow.
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede