What's best to put rallye door louver skins onto a 73 Charger doors?

[Mo Power]

I was wondering what tools would be needed and exactly what you guys would think be best way to put on these rallye skins I got off ebay and weld them into 73 doors without ruining anything?

[Daytona R/T SE]

If you put the 72 door skins on a 73 the body lines won't line up-the 73 body lines are different than a 72. You'd have to cut the louvered area out of the 72 skins and weld them into the 73 doors. 

[Mo Power]

Yup well thats all I got was like just half of the outer skin door and I was planning on just getting somewhat close to around the louvers so I dont have to put as much new metal on my 73 doors. And heres a pic of what I got and would you weld around the whole piece being put in place into the door?

[Daytona R/T SE]

OK, That's a whole different story. From your first post I though you had the ENTIRE 72 door skin and were going to place it on the 73 door frame....


I'm in the same boat with my '72. I've got a set of louvers cut from a pair of rallye doors just like you've got.  It's going to be a challenge to weld that sucker in there without warping the panels...All I can say is Take your time!  Give it plenty of time to cool after each weld....

[Charger-Bodie]

the best way to do this is to butt weld the piece into youre doors very slow and very carefully allowing lots of time to cool as allready said just take youre time and if you are not an experienced welder have someone do it who is cause thats not a novice job!

[71_Charger_R/T]

I wouldn't weld them at all, I would use a  product called Fusor made by Lord. This stuff is amazing! I know, I know, I was very skeptical myself before I used it. This is the kind of adhesive they used to put Fieros together and GM vans with the plastic bodies and "space frames". They have formulated it for steel to steel adhesion and it lasts for years and years. I did the rust repair on a 86 Ford 3/4 ton about 8 years ago with aftermarket patch panels. The beauty is that you don't burn off any factory E-coat or corrosion protection and there is no warpage or distortion of the panels due to heat. Don't just take my word for it, ask around, I'm sure you can find others who have used it and know of it's virtues. Here is a link to the company http://www.lord.com/tabid/3400/Default.aspx I hope this is some help to you

[41husk]

Thats very interesting, do you have any pics of pannels you have used this product on?

[71_Charger_R/T]

I am trying to find some pictures I have saved on CD but I am having trouble with my DVD/CD drive. It doesn't want to spool up. I'm about to test the aero-dynamics of this stupid computer!

[71_Charger_R/T]

There! I was able to extract some of the pic's from the CD. These are on a mid 90's Chev extended cab truck. In this first one I'm just removing some of the offending rust

[71_Charger_R/T]

Took out all the rusted area and used "Rust-Mort" to try and stop any rust that was hiding inside. Used 36 grit Rolox to get the surface ready for adhesion (Edges on the backside of the patch panel as well) This truck was nothing special so the opening was not flanged to accept the new panel. Since there is no way to clamp the panel around the top I dry fit the panel and pre-drilled small holes for sheet metal screws (that get removed as soon as the panel is secure and Fusor starts to set.) You apply the Fusor with a dedicated little caulk type gun around the edges of the panel and clamp it on and screw where necessary. When it starts to set take out the screws.  when the screws are out just squeeze another little dab of the glue in the hole to seal it up so no moisture can get to your bondo from the backside

[71_Charger_R/T]

I can't find any pics of the finished truck, but everything looks the same under a little putty & paint doesn't it?

[41husk]

That holds up well?  man it looks much easier than welding.

[Charger-Bodie]

im personally not against the glue method but im not a big fan of it when then isnt a good way to clamp it like in this situation, i still say but weld it very carfully and you will have the best results

[71_Charger_R/T]

That holds up well?  man it looks much easier than welding.

This stuff holds up EXTREMELY WELL! I'll tell you I didn't think you could have convinced me on it before I used it. Now after having seen it stand up to Minnesota weather for over 8 years, I've changed my tune. I'd hate to see MO POWER have trouble with the sexy lines on these doors. Let us know which way you go and post some pics of the finished product.

[Mo Power]

Ok will do that glue does sound a little bit easier since I haven't welded in ages.

[Mo Power]

Ok I have finally recieved my rallye skins and I'm wondering what would be best to trim away any extra metel around the louver indents. Because I'm trying to cut down as much as possible like 2 inchs away from the indents.

[71_Charger_R/T]

I would use a cutoff wheel or a good nibbler if you have one. Stay away from tin snips, they tend to bend the metal at the end of each snip.

[Charger1973]

If it was me, I would just take them to a qualified body man...  I would hate to see you ruin your doors and the louvers. 

[PA MOPAR MAN]

I use the glue all the time and have never had a problem I did a ford truck with it and the guy drove it for 5 years as awork truck and the rest of the bed rusted away and the panels i put in were just like the day I insalled them.