no spark on new plugs

[tucknroll]

Another question. The fuel filter was right by the distributor  and my dad rerouted it to get it out of the way. Now the new hose is way longer and it's in a totally  different  spot and position. I didn't  say anything out of respect  but it feels different  when I take off. Maybe  it's in my head. Should I put it back the way it was?

[XH29N0G]

I do not think the swapping hoses to relocate the fuel filter should have an impact on the fuel delivery.  Someone else may have a different idea about this.

[tucknroll]

Ok I have a new problem. The car runs great down the road. Alt gauge is fine but when I stop, it wants to go in the negative for just  a second but the real problem is in reverse while braking it really wants to stall. I have to pump the gas and brake to keep it going backing out of my driveway. Any ideas?

[XH29N0G]

Ok I have a new problem. The car runs great down the road. Alt gauge is fine but when I stop, it wants to go in the negative for just  a second but the real problem is in reverse while braking it really wants to stall. I have to pump the gas and brake to keep it going backing out of my driveway. Any ideas?

I don't have power brakes, but I wonder if that might affect vacuum and therefore the idle.  I bet someone on here will know

[tucknroll]

I have power brakes. I might disconnect the back up lights and see if the does anything. I still hate that
Something is wrong.

[skip68]

XR5's is what I found to be best.         I ran MSD and opened the gap to 45-50.   

[tucknroll]

Just wandering if I should step up to 90 amp alternator. 55 amp is what's in it now.  Does fine till heat and lights are on. 90 wouldn't hurt nothing would it?

[Dino]

To run a 90 amp alternator you'd have to do some modifications to the original wiring.  You'd have to run a 6 guage wire from alt to starter relay and it would be best to remove the stock fusible link and run a fused 8 gauge wire from the starter relay through the firewall to the stock power splice.  I run a 50 amp maxi fuse to power the interior and an 80 amp ANL fuse for the chargin system.  I also have a 90 amp alternator.  You can then also remove the black and red wires going to the ammeter.

Don't run this amp with stock wiring please.

[tucknroll]

Thanks. What's the strongest alt I could run with stock wiring just in case I go that route?

[Dino]

Hard to say.  Assuming your wiring is in good shape and all connections are tight, I wouldn't go much past 60 amps.

[tucknroll]

Ive read where people bypass the alternator gauge by connecting the two wires on the back of it and covering them with electrical tape. Why do people not like that gauge and what would it help to bypass it?

[Ghoste]

Because for an ammeter the entire current your alternator puts out is passing through it.  Not a big deal by itself but the bulkhead connector used on the firewall of our old Mopars was never meant to last 45 years and what this means is that the connections at the firewall are subject to corrosion.  The corrosion brings heat, lots of it and the hotter it gets, the more it denigrates the electrical system as a whole.  Add in the fact that many drivers today want to add a lot of high amperage drawing loads to their old car and sometimes a higher output alternator to the system to compensate for the added load and you have a great recipe for an electrical fire.

[tucknroll]

So would y'all suggest me doing that?

[Ghoste]

Do you have the old wiring and high loads?  Have you been through your wiring harnesses to clean the connections, especially that bulkhead one?  If it's maintained and sees stock loads then you are probably fine but if the harness is hacked corroded or if you have a high output alternator or a bunch of electrical add ons that weren't even around back in the day then you should.

[skip68]

Personally I like a volt meter.  Those amp meters have been known to burn up a car.  And I mean burn as in fire.  Disconnect the battery before you mess with it.  

[tucknroll]

So just to be sure, disconnect the battery, pull out the dash enough, take the two connections off the back of the alternator gauge, bolt them together, wrap with electrical tape, put the dash back and I'm good to go? Sorry to go on and on but I'm still learning. Thanks.

[skip68]

Yep.  Make sure it's tight and taped well.  I used liquid tape.   

[tucknroll]

I'm gonna do it tomorrow but was wandering, couldn't I even skip going through the firewall? I think the heavy wire coming from the alt is one side of what's now hooked up to the gauge but what is the other?

[Ghoste]

Bolting them together behind the gauge doesn't eliminate the problem spot at the bulkhead.

[tucknroll]

Well I bypassed the gauge. I'm going to order a ninety amp alternator and skip going through the firewall altogether. I might need some help from y'all when its delivered. I guess I'm going to get it from year one for 115.00 unless y'all know a better place to order it.