Ok, i'm lazy and didn't search...much. Adding a stereo, where to tap power?

[Lord Warlock]

I plan on adding an aftermarket sound system, not the traditional system, and nothing fancy, just 4 to 6 speakers.  I plan on leaving the original AM/FM hooked up and working, to only one speaker in the front dash and the 5x7s in tray .  I have 4 vibration speakers currently installed, one under each kick panel, and one mounted to the rear of both front seats, they don't handle lots of power well, 25 to 50 rms is about all they'll take but they do work down to 2ohms so offer options to stacking them up in two channels, was planning on just adding a deck under the dash, but recently picked up a 4 channel amplifier that allows Bluetooth streaming, and no head unit is necessary.  So now faced with deciding where to install the amp, and whether to install a head unit anyway.  Have two 5x7's in rear tray, and a small box in the trunk.  Thinking I'd mount the amp to run the speakers in the rear tray and trunk, and have the head unit power the vibration speakers.  Best spot for the amp right now would be under the buddy seat, or in the trunk area.  It fits both easy enough.

Anyway,  ignoring the speakers for now,  I need to run wires to battery, and tap into a keyed or switched power source,  Since I don't want to disable the stock radio, where do I connect for switched power?  is the cigar lighter switched?  can I hook directly to the fuse panel, or better to tap into a power lead somewhere?  Where does everyone here tap into power with?  

Alternator has been upgraded so should have plenty of power for the stereo system, and I'm not planning on running heavy loads, a single amp, and possibly a head unit, but I also don't want to hack into the dash harness much if I can avoid doing so, it is all original now and still works so don't want to hazard screwing something up there if I can avoid it.  Fuse box is easy to get to now.  Is there an aux or extra fuse to use in the panel?  

[birdsandbees]

Cig lighter is always live.

[Kern Dog]

I'd pull the glovebox and tap directly into the fuse panel. You can get wire terminals with a jumper spade so you don't have to cut any existing wiring.

[Lord Warlock]

glove box is currently out of the car, have a new one ready to go in, but waiting till after I get stereo stuff done before scratching the crap out of my hands trying to shove the box in again. 

[Kern Dog]

Every time I do underdash work, my arms look like I was trying to molest feral cats.

[Lord Warlock]

Seems every time I work on the charger I donate blood somewhere to the car.  I'm supposed to be avoiding activity that causes small wounds, have to worry about infection while under treatment.  Takes a while for stuff to heal lately.  Reaching up under the dash is just asking for new cuts and scrapes on the arms.  Suppose it would be easier without the ac/heater box in place but not anxious to take on that project yet. 

[Brock Lee]

If it were my car, I would run a whole new power line direct, triggered by a relay tapped into the original radio slot of the fuse block. This way you get "key on" activation, but don't put the new sound systems current drain on the old wiring. Add inline fuses for each component to protect them.

[John_Kunkel]

  You don't want any additional high current running through the ignition switch.

[Lord Warlock]

is there a preferred way to tap into the fuse box?  I'm running one power wire direct to battery with a fuse to the amp, and need one switched power, so can run direct to fuse box, people recommend a spade clamp end hooked to one side of the fuse?

In the old days you just stripped a wire, then wrapped it around one end of a fuse and snapped the fuse in. 

The amp is going to be mounted underneath the buddy seat, it is small enough to fit inside, and I've routed the aux in cable, USB port, and remote connections up through the small pocket at base of the seat cushion. Have to run wires to the rear deck speakers.  think the small vibration speakers will all be wired in to the front channels, and the rear deck speakers to the rear. 

vibration speakers are these: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-daex58fp-flat-pack-58mm-exciter-25w-8-ohm--295-210m, sometimes called exciters, one per seat on the seat back, and one on each foot panel and it puts out pretty good sound at medium levels.  Not sure if too much power will hurt them, the back speakers should handle more power.   The big gain for these is that you can feel every thump or drum beat in your back without needing to make your ears bleed. 

[Dino]

With a 100 amp alternator and a modern stereo, I sincerely hope you're disconnecting the ammeter and doing some serious wiring upgrades.  6 gauge wiring with a 100A fuse to the starter relay, 50A maxi fuse going from starter relay to the cab and removing the fusible link, black and red ammeter wires soldered together and heatshrink wrapped.  Dedicated fused power wires.  Good time to do the headlight relay mod as well if you didn't do so yet.  Take the brunt of power out of those old wires wherever you can, relays are your friend.

[Lord Warlock]

some wiring upgrades, not all of them though.  will see what happens with the ammeter, may rewire, may not, i'd prefer not to mess with the gauge cluster...unless I want to rebuild the whole thing (not if lucky) attempted to buy a spare cluster yesterday, but got outbid at the last moment.  would have allowed me to send one in to have rebuilt while keeping the original ...just in case...  will have to look up the headlight relay mod, some mention it in other postings I've read when upgrading the alternator.

[440]

I ran a 4 gauge main power wire for my stereo which consists of 2 amps providing about 1500 watts total RMS to 4 speakers. If your not using the head unit to drive the speakers there really isn't any extra drain, probably less actually. Finding room for all the extra equipment is a pain.