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Cool Carb and Firecore

Started by 303 Mopar, October 29, 2015, 03:45:24 PM

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303 Mopar

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap on my 440 in the '68 Charger. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer .  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  I also installed a new Firecore RTR distributor, mounted the new coil on the inner fender, and added new 8.5 mm wires.

The Cool Carb is actually two outer aluminum layers with a poly-core, both in the large heat shield and spacer (see pic below).  The total thickness is 3/8" and the entire kit also comes with 3 gaskets to go between the intake and heat shield, heat shield and spacer, spacer and carb.  You can also order studs with a alley head cap.  Total cost shipped was about $90.























1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

303 Mopar

I had a chance to run the Charger around and measured the temps again.  Both times the engine temp was 195 after 30-45 min of driving in traffic around town. Before the Cool Carb shield the Eddy carb temp was 148.  After the Cool Carb the Proform carb temp was 127.  So about a 20 degree drop, or 15%.





All of these mods have really woken up the 440!   :punkrocka:
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

c00nhunterjoe

Cool carb is about 15 minutes from my house. Nice guy, good product. Have one on my car as well.

firefighter3931

Nice work Dan,

Looks like the cool carb is doing a great job based on the temperature readings  :2thumbs: The DEI insulation will help a lot with the vapor lock issue you were having in the summer.

CH4B + 750DP + Firecore ignition = Well sorted out combination !  :punkrocka: :devil: :drive:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

myk

Now I've really gotta get my CH4B mounted.  Looks like all you had to do is just spread a little black RTV/silicone around the ports and then put everything back on?  Did you apply the sealer to both sides of the valley pan?  It's been decades since I swapped in my Performer manifold.  Also, what did you do to prepare your intake for paint?

303 Mopar

Quote from: myk on October 30, 2015, 07:05:53 AM
Now I've really gotta get my CH4B mounted.  Looks like all you had to do is just spread a little black RTV/silicone around the ports and then put everything back on?  Did you apply the sealer to both sides of the valley pan?  It's been decades since I swapped in my Performer manifold.  Also, what did you do to prepare your intake for paint?

I put on a new Fel-Pro 1215 gasket set (2 gaskets and a valley pan with heat cross-over block).  I did run a small bead of black RTV around all holes and corners on the block and on both sides of the 2 gaskets.  

For the intake, mine was already blasted so all I did was run a light sand paper over it and cleaned it.  I shot it with etching primer first, then 3 coats of hemi orange paint from Napa going from light to full coverage and allowing to dry 30-45 min between.

One quick note: there is a small hole on the CH4B on the passenger side that you need to plug BEFORE you try to set the timing.  Ask me how I know.   :slap:

1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

myk

You used the gaskets?  I keep reading that, just like the factory, no gaskets are required with the pan.  I'd rather use the gaskets, but in the end I just want it to work. 

Thanks for the heads up on the port on the side of the intake.  I also found one on the bottom that needed to be plugged... :shruggy:

Dino

Myk it al depends how the intake maniold fits.  Mine fit fine without the gaskets but you will need them if the intake doesn't mate very well to the heads.  I ued Permatex ultra copper on the valley pan and when I removed the intake manifold the pan was totally stuck to it.  Good stuff!

Nice work 303!  How's it running with that proform?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Quote from: Dino on October 30, 2015, 08:09:40 PM
Myk it al depends how the intake maniold fits.  Mine fit fine without the gaskets but you will need them if the intake doesn't mate very well to the heads.  I ued Permatex ultra copper on the valley pan and when I removed the intake manifold the pan was totally stuck to it.  Good stuff!

Nice work 303!  How's it running with that proform?

Well I can only measure how well it fits by the alignment of the bolt holes, correct?

Dino

No it's about the fitment of the manifold against the heads.  When you put the intake down without any gaskets and the two mating surfaces don't mate up right then you use a gasket to seal the gap.  Sometimes they fit fine and sometimes they don't.   :yesnod:

When you have removed the old intake and cleaned everything up, just lay the valley pan in place dry and put the intake on.  See how it fits.  You can bolt it in place to make sure but you can usually tell if you need gaskets or not.  Once you know what you need, seal the deal with Permatex ultra copper.  It'll match the color of the engine as a bonus.   :icon_smile_big:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

 Also, just how stuck do these intakes get to the heads?  This manifold has been on the car for almost 20 years.  Pry bar?  Sledgehammer?  TNT?

And....I can't decide on the color for the intake lol.  Orange seems to be the proper way to do things, but I like the look of a fresh silver finish, as if it were new...

Dino

A few stick of dynamite oughta do it!   :lol:

If you have a sealer on there it'll stick but it won't be stuck that badly either.  The valley pan on mine kept head and intake together so I pried it off the heads and left it sticking to the intake.  I used a gasket scraper to get it started and then just lifted the whole thing off.

I like both colors as long as it's clean and fresh.  I like orange for the stock look but i you want some more pop then go with silver.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

303 Mopar

Quote from: Dino on October 30, 2015, 08:09:40 PM
Nice work 303!  How's it running with that proform?

Thanks Dino.  The intake and carb swap really woke up the 440.  The Firecore was the cherry on top.

Myk, I also struggled with the intake color but most I have seen are silver so I wanted to keep it more stock looking.  Either way it will look good in your beautiful car.

A quick note, when I took off the Eddy Performer 440 intake there was only the pan with no RTV or gaskets.  The PO had the engine R&R 7 years ago by shop in CO Springs.  I have always used both black RTV and gaskets on each side of the pan to be sure there are no leaks.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

myk

Oh, ok.  It didn't occur to me that "silver" is actually the non-stock, aftermarket color.  Your intake looks great, and I think I'll go that route...

Stegs

where did you mount your coil?

303 Mopar

Quote from: Stegs on November 06, 2015, 08:12:24 AM
where did you mount your coil?

On the inner fender to lessen the heat and vibration of the engine.  You will need a little extra longer wire to reach from the distributor.

1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible