Anybody ever tried FI Tech fuel injection?

[JR]

Ive got my money on a glitch in the wiring somewhere, but Im also curious.

If your voltage is dipping down to 9v during cranking, have you tried jumping another battery to yours during starting? Just to rule low voltage out?

If my battery runs low, the efi wont fire.

[68CoronetRT]

Good idea! My battery was low at this time too . Like 12.2 volts. So I let it charge over night and it's at 12.8 now. Going to try again today and see what happens with more battery voltage. Also a good idea about additional battery. Maybe I'll hook my other car up and "jump" it to see if it is a voltage dropping problem.

I'll report back this afternoon!

[BLK 68 R/T]

So you have the 6al box and msd distributor currently installed correct? If so I don't think the white wire from the ignition box should be hooked to anything. Heavy red to battery, heavy black to ground, small orange to + coil, small black to -coil, red to power in start/run position, and grey to tach if used, violet and green to dizzy. I think the white wire being hooked up is acting as a kill switch by being grounded in the run position.

Well I hoped maybe I was onto something with this white wire, but guess not. Good luck and hope you can get it running soon 

[68CoronetRT]

Ok, talked with Bryce again. White wire cant be below 10v during cranking, it will fire but not stay running because it thinks its shutting down due to lack of voltage. I have a feeling the MSD wire and Fitechs wire are pulling the voltage down too far for the Fitech's computer to start going.

Gonna wire it to the wiper motor wire which I know is 12v at cranking and key on. And with the battery now charged up hopefully it'll run!

[68CoronetRT]

I would have someone slowly turn the ignition key to start, and back to run, while you hold a test light to this white wire. It should stay hot until you turn the switch back off. If it flickers between start and run, it will cause the engine to start, and run as long as the switch is in "start", and die when the switch goes back to "run".

Before I started my Fitech install, I grabbed an old switch and hooked up an ohmmeter to test where the break was between run and start.  (And there was a break)  It would be interesting to know, of allllllll the various vehicles this system has been installed on (chevy, ford, amc, mopar, etc), whether their switches have a break or whether there is an overlap of start and run.  I decided for now, that I'd just put a little switch into the old choke cable bracket and hit it with the key in run.  Haven't had starting issues yet.  But there is a rather ugly switch.  But you could hide it.  Seems like he may have found his issue, so only posting this for others that come along and question the issue with the break between start and run and haven't put an upgraded ignition box and eliminated the ballast.

Thinking about this post you bring in a good idea! Wire a fused switch to the battery directly and connect the 'White" start/run wire to it. Its kind of like a kill switch and at the same time you command when it see's full voltage. Then your not relying on the ignition switch and the break points.

Might try that next after today, if the problem is still there.

[68CoronetRT]

Welp, double checked the white wire which conveniently is wired to my line lock inside the car.... haha. It has 12.8v at key on and 10.1-10.2 during hard cranking, RPM signal is a solid 140-145.

Next is to check the dwell line to the MSD box and make sure the Square Waves are actually sending pulse's. Need the wife to crank while I check that. So doing that later on tonight.

After that, Fitech techs will be officially "stumped" and I'll be sending it in for evaluation. 

[68CoronetRT]

Update!

No pulse signal from Fitech computer to MSD box. Going to check before and after the WEATHER pack once the wife gets home. I could only check the post weather pack wire for now. This could be it!  

I know everyone is just at the edge of their seats! haha. Also recording my thoughts here so I can review later if I need to.

And to check this, all you do is hook up a test light to the coil black wire and as you crank the light should light up and then go dim. FYI

[darbgnik]

Update!

No pulse signal from Fitech computer to MSD box. Going to check before and after the WEATHER pack once the wife gets home. I could only check the post weather pack wire for now. This could be it!  

I know everyone is just at the edge of their seats! haha. Also recording my thoughts here so I can review later if I need to.

And to check this, all you do is hook up a test light to the coil black wire and as you crank the light should light up and then go dim. FYI

Oh there's a few waiting on the results, who haven't commented...... EFI is on my to do list as well.

[will]

Mine is in the box, waiting patiently for the fat kid to finish working overtime to get to it.

[68CoronetRT]

Ok. So no pulse from the black "Coil" wire from Fitech computer to dwell or negative coil post(How ever you have it wired). Calling Fitech in an hour or so to see what they say. I also checked before and after the weather pack connection just to double check that.

Just to recap.

Fitech fired on timing control with the Firecore Dist.
After an hour or so it straight stopped working
Checked for 10v under a hard crank at the "White" wire. It was 10.2
Checked for resting voltage with key on. 12.8v
Used a test light to see if the computer is sending a square wave pulse to MSD box and got nothing.

I think that's pretty much it for now.

[68CoronetRT]

Ok. Called Fitech and after much resistance they finally offered to take a look at it. But I had to show proof of purchase. So I call Summit to get the invoice electronically and they offer to replace the unit! So I need to ship it back to them, and they will send a refund at full pop.

So now I'm kind of leaning towards the Holley kit since at the time I bought the Fitech, the Holley kit was not released yet. It's 100$ more, but you get Holley's support. 

[JR]

Man, that's a bummer.

Keep us posted with updates. I'm totally out of ideas.

[68CoronetRT]

I'm pretty bummed about leaving Fitech. But they really need to get more help in the tech support department. When I started asking questions that seemed to be over their heads they got all huffy with me and just started saying they've never seen my problem before and something is wrong with my wiring. But I was doing exactly what they asked and it passed every test except the one that proved the computer is broken.

So luckily Summit will be taking my return under warrenty for a full refund and I'm either going Megasquirt or the Holley TB setup.

For Fuel only I'd buy again. But unfortunitly their tech support has burned my bridge so I dunno.

[lukedukem]

I too have looked at Holley. Keep us posted

Luke

[darbgnik]

Being up here in Canada, I was thinking of going the Holley direction, in hopes of better tech support.

[68CoronetRT]

Ordered the Holley kit, returned the MSD dist, and ordered the Holley Dual Sync dist that runs a Hall Effect trigger.

I'll post results hopefully by end of next week.

[JR]

That's a real bummer to see the FItech didn't work out, but I'm interested to see how the Holley works out.

It will be interesting to see a comparison.

[68CoronetRT]

Started wiring the Holley kit last night and the Dual Sync dist is catching the corner of my head. Not a big deal, just need a die grinder and shave the head a little.

And figured out I need a relayed 12v for the switched power. Funny how Fitech post about all my issues just yesterday on Facebook.

[TommyGun]

Would the relay have fixed you fitech issue?

[68CoronetRT]

Negative. I was getting a fire and die symptom. There would be no fire if the computer and MSD did not have 12v.

The problem was the computer was not sending it's pulses to the MSD box(dwell). Fitech has seen this 2 other times. So the MSD would fire and then instead of continuing to shoot the signal over to the coil it would just turn off(lack of signal from ECU).

The test which I already mentioned in this thread was to use a test light and under cranking see if the light comes and goes(AKA the pulses to the MSD box). I was getting no light at all. Dead unit. Fitech just sat there and balked at my findings. So I said screw it and went the other route.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Fitech just sat there and balked at my findings. So I said screw it and went the other route.

Funny, they basically said the same thing to me six months ago and refused to take a look at it. Even offered to pay labor and shipping and they still wouldn't take it in to test. I would have just bought another Fitech unit but their customer service ruined it for me. Ended up going with the Holley Terminator Stealth unit. Just need to get off my butt and get back to working on it. 

[JR]

It's a bummer to see their customer service sucks now.

I called them with some questions right after the units first became available, and they were helpful and receptive to me.

I can only assume they've grown faster than they were anticipating, and likely don't have enough personnel to fill orders and answer the phone.

Not that that's any excuse for rude service, but it's my guess as to what's going on.

There's no telling how popular FItech must be now. Just look at the page views of this thread compared to any other thread here. Twenty thousand plus views. I'd bet that most of them are from non members researching the product who found our thread on Google.

It would be neat to see the analytics of this thread to see the number of unique/new visitors vs. members here.

[68CoronetRT]

It's a bummer to see their customer service sucks now.

I called them with some questions right after the units first became available, and they were helpful and receptive to me.

I can only assume they've grown faster than they were anticipating, and likely don't have enough personnel to fill orders and answer the phone.

Not that that's any excuse for rude service, but it's my guess as to what's going on.

There's no telling how popular FItech must be now. Just look at the page views of this thread compared to any other thread here. Twenty thousand plus views. I'd bet that most of them are from non members researching the product who found our thread on Google.

It would be neat to see the analytics of this thread to see the number of unique/new visitors vs. members here.

Funny, I was thinking the same thing about the traffic this thread is seeing now. Its like me reading through 56 pages on the Chevelle forum to come to the conclusion that the Command Center was not properly designed and saved me a huge hassle! Which lead me to the Tanks Inc. setup which has worked out very well!

[komninon]

Started wiring the Holley kit last night and the Dual Sync dist is catching the corner of my head. Not a big deal, just need a die grinder and shave the head a little.

And figured out I need a relayed 12v for the switched power. Funny how Fitech post about all my issues just yesterday on Facebook.

thanks for all the info . how much do you think you have to grind the head? how about the valve cover? i am doing the holley hp port injection Rich from FASTMAN EFI told me it is easier to grind the base of the distr
thank you

[68CoronetRT]

Started wiring the Holley kit last night and the Dual Sync dist is catching the corner of my head. Not a big deal, just need a die grinder and shave the head a little.

And figured out I need a relayed 12v for the switched power. Funny how Fitech post about all my issues just yesterday on Facebook.

thanks for all the info . how much do you think you have to grind the head? how about the valve cover? i am doing the holley hp port injection Rich from FASTMAN EFI told me it is easier to grind the base of the distr
thank you

It wasn't much. It was just barely catching the corner of the dist. Took 5 mins to fix it. But they are also aluminum heads. Cleared the valve cover just fine.