Anybody ever tried FI Tech fuel injection?

[JR]

^Excellent advice. I agree 100%.

I'm over a year and a half on my setup. No reliability concerns at all.

[68killerbee]

Well thanks a ton!  I feel way more confident in it now.  I bought this regulator because I figured it would be able to handle a carb or EFI with the change of a spring.  https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-bypass-regulator/

Now I just need to lay it all out and see what exactly I'll need to get it installed (fittings, fuel lines, etc). Your info helps a ton.  Before I was like this  trying to figure stuff out after reading online all the issues.  Time to use up all the gas I have left and drop the tank.  Hopefully I get the Tanksinc tank to seal properly.

[68CoronetRT]

That regulator looks like it would serve its purpose then! I didn't know that existed.

PM me or post up if you have any other questions. I spent alot of time on the phone with Fitech... haha

[darbgnik]

Well thanks a ton!  I feel way more confident in it now.  I bought this regulator because I figured it would be able to handle a carb or EFI with the change of a spring.  https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-bypass-regulator/

Now I just need to lay it all out and see what exactly I'll need to get it installed (fittings, fuel lines, etc). Your info helps a ton.  Before I was like this  trying to figure stuff out after reading online all the issues.  Time to use up all the gas I have left and drop the tank.  Hopefully I get the Tanksinc tank to seal properly.

Yeah. If you leave the timing control for a later date, or not bother, it really simplifies things.....

[68killerbee]

Finally getting around to this. These an fittings are such a pain but I'm buying a few more tomorrow and will be done.  Hardlines to fittings To braided to fittings to blahblahblah. I was happy with the old fashioned way of clamps and hoses. But anyway
I'm running fuel only. 
I have a stock replacement style distributor and still have my ballast resistor.  What's the best route to wiring the white wire.  The red wire, what connection do you use for the battery.  The pump and tach are easy.  I've done a lot of stuff to my car over the years but maybe not the best way(exhaust cutouts, line locks etc). I want this done once and done right.  I'm hoping to try it out tomorrow or Friday. Gotta get it running good for the mopar Nats in a couple weeks.
Thanks in advance. I'm off to bed.

[68killerbee]

Had a question about fittings but I figured it out

[Rubberduck]

Finally I got all hooked up. I use a gastank from Tanksinc. with an internal fuelpump.
Yesterday I started the engine the first time with the FI Tech Go EFI 4.
Starting was a little hard. The idle is way to low and it smokes like it is running too rich.
I turned in the screw on the throttle body as discribed. I tried several times. one time it ran smoothly with no smoke.
The throttle response was very quick. But then idle went down to 450 rpm and it started to smoke again.

Now I don´t know what to do.
The engine is a 505 cui.

I guess I have to do some calibration.
Below you can see pics of the controller. There are so many parameters you can change that I don´t know about.
Maybe that is the reason.

Also I have attached the white cable (to ignition) to the ballast resistor as you can see in the first pic.  Is that okay?
















Mario

[RCCDrew]

Purely a guess but maybe the ECM is reading the crank sensor wrong. If you bring the idle up to 1000 rpm does it change the actual idle to 500 rpm?

[TommyGun]

The white wire needs 12v during cranking and key on. I suspect that's your problem right now. You'll need to wire a relay to give 12v to the white wire.

[Troy]

The white wire needs 12v during cranking and key on. I suspect that's your problem right now. You'll need to wire a relay to give 12v to the white wire.

The ballast resistor is there to reduce the voltage to the factory ignition. I'm surprised the Fitech actually works in "run".

Troy

[will]

I put the white wire to power, it works but drains the battery. What have others done? i'm going to have to put a switch or something between the source and the unit.

[TommyGun]

To wire in a relay so you have a constant key on 12v source get a standard iso relay.  Hook pin 85 to ground, pin 87 and pin 86 to the brown wire at the ignition switch, pin 87a to blue wire at ignition switch, and then pin 30 from the relay will be your 12v output.

[igozumn]

What have others done? i'm going to have to put a switch or something between the source and the unit.

Mine is on a battery tender whenever it is not out of the garage.  Old motorcycle habit. 


With regards to the Fitech and 12v at all times vs starter circuit, I've mentioned this before.  I'm not saying it's an elegant solution, but easy?  I put a simple push switch, like the washer switch, and wired it inline with the starter circuit wire.  Turn the key to ignition, push the button and let'er rip.  You could hide the switch too, for a little security.

[John_Kunkel]

The need for constant 12V subject was covered early in this thread, check pages 2-3.

A simple diode is the most practical method.

[68CoronetRT]

Fused relay for my Sniper kit . Works great! I do carry a spare though. Just in case.

[raymond73]

Hi can som one give me some tip??Hi i have a 69 charger 440 with a1200 unit that i have a procharger F1 on. The unit is perfect on idle and cruise but when i was on the dyno i starting to lean out over 4750rpm (498hp at The hubs) afr was 13 and going up and lean so i shut IT off! Want to reach 6500rpm at 11,9 afr) I have a tankinc fuel tank w/ gpa 6 pump  so i got a steady 60 psi fuel pressure at idle and wot!!  The blower is phusing 10 psi at 4750rpm and i have a 2 stage water/meth . I have Try to adujst afr Target under boost om The controller but no change!! Do you have any tip or what i can do?

[68CoronetRT]

It sounds like your starting to run out of fuel pump. The boosted AFR settings are for N2o. I'd imaging you would just tune your normal settings, not the boosted settings. If it's going lean and your target AFR setting is good, then you need more GPA at the fuel pump.

[raymond73]

Hi i have just measure The fuel pressure at wot and i have 60 psi and The pump flow 346 lph at 60 psi so i should be good to feed 800hp! And boost afr target is for nos and boost saus fitech. I have around 10 psi boost from The supercharger at 5000rpm!

[cdr]

wrong or defective map sensor ?

[raymond73]

If i run out of fuel ? Will i see this on the hand controller? I have just measure with gauge ! And The pump is a 400 lph walbro from tankinc.

[raymond73]

How can i check The Map sensor ? I Need guide for dummies 

[metallicareload99]

If i run out of fuel ? Will i see this on the hand controller? I have just measure with gauge ! And The pump is a 400 lph walbro from tankinc.

I don't think you would be able to see that on the hand held controller. You should be able to see that the MAP sensor is functioning or not on the hand held though.

How do you know you are getting 10 psi of boost? Is the FiTech controlling the fuel pump with pulse width modulation?

[raymond73]

Hi i have check The Map sensor! And its fine. I have boost gauge and IT is a boost sensor in The fitech hand held controller and They read The same. But i have mount a separate fuel pressure regulator and now i can read that i have 60 psi normal driving but fuel pump dont flow so many log that i need abow 5000rpm . So i need a Niger pump. I have now a walbro 400 lph and need a 500 or biger!
And i have fuel pump on relay w/ 13.9 volt running at The pump

[igozumn]

An update on my fuel heating issue.   I had taken a short trip earlier this summer, maybe 15-20 minutes, when it was around 90 degrees.  Took my laser thermometer and when I got stopped, I checked some temps.  The intake runners (Street Dominator) were around 225, the front of the Fitech (on the logo) was 165-ish, and the manifold heat crossover at the head was 325!  Ordered the valley pan with the blocked crossover and 2 Cool Carb spacers.  One, was the big one that extended out front and back, the other was a standard gasket size spacer.  Ran across a cbrestorations video where he mentioned a drop base for the air cleaner that had about another inch of drop from Mancini, so I ordered that too.  I was comfortable with the hood clearance I had, and wanted to try and maintain that.  

Finally got around to installing everything.  The drop base barely cleared the fittings I had on the back side and even still, you have to have it rotated in just the right spot to not lay on them.  I had to raise the throttle cable bracket about 3/4" to get the cable angle corrected.  It wasn't perfect before.  The Street Dominator sets a little higher than stock and the Fitech might even have the  throttle shafts a smidge higher, not sure.  But raising everything up another 3/8" was going to be too much for the cable coming out of the mount.   Sliced the mount lengthwise, welded in a 3/4" wide (tall) piece of bar stock and the cable has a nice run to the throttle linkage now.  Pedal is a little easier to actuate.  Yay!  Also replaced the 25 year old plug wires.

Got it running and took it on some short trips.  The exhaust tone is different.  Little more raspy sounding.  Also have a bit of a stumble, more like flat spot coming off of idle, much like the Holley 750 that was on it.  Ran the same test with the laser thermometer taking the same route as before.  Intake runners still around 225, front of Fitech around 135, and the manifold heat crossover at the head was 225 or cooler.  So, much improved.  In all the driving I've done since, it hasn't hissed at the cap yet.  If the throttle body only gets to around 135, then I'm happy with that.  Some of the hotter places around the country are seeing 110, 115+ ambient temps, so they'd be seeing almost the same temps as me in the best of circumstances.  I'm sure the swap to headers would help even more with the interior.  I had the thermometer the other night with me, as I sat in my buddy's driveway, thinking, "Man it is hot in here."  So I gunned the carpet on the floor by the firewall: 115 degrees, gunned the door panels, the dash, etc. and confirmed that it is indeed warm in the interior.  Have to pull the inspection/access covers in the engine bay and retest.  Might have to plan a cylinder head/header upgrade sooner than I'd wanted.  

Been doing a little tuning on the flat spot and it's better, but not as good as before.  But shouldn't take much more to get it right again.  It is weird the exhaust note changed like it did.

[JR]

Under hood heat is definitely a real issue with big blocks man. I've spent a TON of time working on that.

Ceramic coating the headers was a HUGE improvement on mine, and probably the single largest drop in temps. I also pulled my access plates out of the inner fenders and left them off. (I could write a book with all the stuff I've found to lower underhood temps.)

Did you reset your the learning feature on the handheld? I'm guessing the drop base air cleaner draws less air through than your old one, so the engine is likely running rich from the original learning curve. Resetting it and letting the computer relearn the new breather will likely clear it up.

Ive noticed a big change in air/fuel readings from playing around with different air filters. It seems the drop base ones are the most restrictive (from my experience.)