Dakota Digital guages, Ammeter bypass, bulkhead changes....

[Kern Dog]

Since the guages and the dash are about the last section of my car that are still pretty much 45 year old original, I'm looking to make improvements. I have been wanting to restore the original guages for quite some time, I even bought a spare cluster to send out so I could just swap out when it came back. Last year I saw a guy on Moparts (Pynzo) had reported on this fantastic looking setup from Dakota Digital. The cluster is arranged just like the 1968-70 Charger models with two large guages for tachometer and speedo, then the same sized 4 small ones for Gas, water temp, Oil Pressure and an Alternator guage. they use a Voltmeter, surely a safe alternative to the ammeter.
The price is a little less than having the stock guages redone, just under $1000. They have a clock in the lower section of the tach. The gas guage is calibrated by the installer so any deficiencies in the aftermarket fuel sender can be accounted for. Think about that: A classic Mopar with a totally accurate gas guage!
There is a 3 page thread on Moparts regarding an installation but the guy also made several wiring harness changes.
Who has made the change to these guages?

[Dino]

Yeah a few guys did this.  Looks awesome.   

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114942.0/all.html

[fizz]

I am planning to do the initial run and test on my car in the next couple weeks and will calibrate the fuel guage/speedometer then. Install was straight forward. I rewired the car using a ron francis kit, so can't comment on fitting to stock wiring harness, but it seems to me that rewiring the dash would be the easiest because of the rats nest of wires that the stock harness was.

[Kern Dog]

I made the order tonight, from Summit. I also ordered the auxillary dimmer. I read that the stock dimmer does not work on the new setup. Hopefully the swap will be a smooth one.

[comet_666]

You can adjust the dim via the menu's if you want to. Module would be way less of a pain though.

[recon68]

got some more pics?

[Kern Dog]

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=939/category_id=679/mode=prod/prd939.htm

Although they offer a few different face designs, I like the traditional black background with white numbers and letters.
I ordered a cluster yesterday. It ships from the East Coast so it will take 5 business days or more to get it out here in CA. Summit racing has them for $945 with free shipping. I did also order the external dimmer. I'll report back as more info becomes available.

[Kern Dog]

Like so many other people I know, delays happen and I've been unable to stay on task.
I lost my instruction & installation booklet and had to download it from the website. Electrical stuff always makes me nervous so I really needed to have these pages to guide me. I want to address the INOP heater/defroster while the dash is opened up. It hasn't worked the entire 15 1/2 years that I have owned the car. The blower will spin if I attach a hot wire to it, so I'm sure there is something amiss inside. I did buy the reproduction dash trim panels. I figured that new guages with old panels is like old bumpers on a freshly painted car. I'm going to bypass the ammeter by rerouting the wires as described on the MAD Electrical website. They route the ALT Positive wire to the starter relay and run a different wire through the bulkhead connector to power up the interior.
Updates will follow along with a few pictures.

[Brock Lee]

I am going to help install one of these real soon. Same deal, new dash bezels and everything. We installed whatever that popular dash bezel set and gauges that came out two years ago was and are redoing it with this setup. I will keep an eye on this section and see how its going for you..or if we start first, I will post anything that we bump into.

But yeah, this is the perfect time to sort out your wire issues.

In regards to your heater. I would make sure the switch is working. Then for the hell of it, change the fuse it is on. Mine didn't work for a long time, the fuse looked good, but when I tested for continuity, it failed. Snapped in a new fuse and it came to life.

[Kern Dog]

While I have the dash opened up, I'm going to change some of the wiring. Has anyone read THIS...?

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

The vehicle example they use is a mid 70s Dodge truck but the principles are the same.

[Brock Lee]

Yes. We have done that mod to several Chargers. My car had no issues before, so I can't really say I have seen much of an improvement. Along with this mod, I did the headlight mod too.

But we did my friends Charger at the same time. He had some issues. He was eating up alternators. About one a year. We did this mod 9 years ago and he hasn't had to replace the alternator once since then.

[Kern Dog]

When I tried adding relays to the headlights 2 years ago, things went awry....
The guy helping me tapped into the wires to the headlights about where the battery tray is. He only wanted to tap into the low beam circuit. For some strange reason, the headlights and doors didn't work right afterwards. The doors wouldn't close when the switch was shut off, I had to turn the ignition switch on and then back off.
Is there a clear and specific placement of the relays to avoid these problems?

[Dino]

The placement should not make any difference to the operation of the headlights or the doors.  Me thinks something else went wrong.  I put relays on both low and high beams and I made the cuts close to the rad support.  Works for me!

[Kern Dog]

Thank you!
Maybe the problems I had were due to Bob only tapping into the low beam circuit?

[Dino]

It shouldn't really change anything.  The power for the low beams would go through the relay while power for the high beams would still go through the stock switch.  The headlight doors would only be affected by interfering with the motor wiring, but mine run on vacuum and I'm not too familiar with how yours work.  I can only imagine he accidentally cut into a wire he wasn't supposed to.

I'd start by getting rid of the one relay and bringing everything back to stock.  Check the wires and repair where needed so everything functions as it left the factory.  Then do your mod with dual relays and a fuse or circuit breaker.  I installed the circtuit breaker below the relays.  When I did my electrical upgrades I had a battery cable made that had an extra 10 gauge wire running from the terminal to the circuit breaker to power the relays.

[Kern Dog]

Thanks, Dino. I'm just picking brains at this point. Like many other people, I often ponder about things I had trouble with, hoping to stumble upon a solution. Old Cops think about unsolved cases, right?

Today I bought some wire and fusible links. I'm replacing the Alternator charge wire. The 2013 harness came with an OEM sized  12g black wire that I upgraded to a 10g. I'm going a step further to an 8g but instead of it going in through the bulkhead, I'm running it to the starter relay. It has a 14g fusible link right at the relay. The inside of the car will be powered up by a 10g red wire, pass through the bulkhead connector via a drilled out passage, then to a 16g fusible link and to the relay.
I'm back at it tomorrow.

[myk]

Happy Thanksgiving to you then!

[Pete in NH]

Thanks, Dino. I'm just picking brains at this point. Like many other people, I often ponder about things I had trouble with, hoping to stumble upon a solution. Old Cops think about unsolved cases, right?

Today I bought some wire and fusible links. I'm replacing the Alternator charge wire. The 2013 harness came with an OEM sized  12g black wire that I upgraded to a 10g. I'm going a step further to an 8g but instead of it going in through the bulkhead, I'm running it to the starter relay. It has a 14g fusible link right at the relay. The inside of the car will be powered up by a 10g red wire, pass through the bulkhead connector via a drilled out passage, then to a 16g fusible link and to the relay.
I'm back at it tomorrow.

No need to think any further about the MAD Electrical bypass as what you have outlined above will work just fine and is much cleaner, wiring wise. The fusible links will work for you but, I personally prefer fuses. A 50 amp Maxi-Fuse is good for the 16 gauge fusible link and the 14 gauge link replacement really depends on the output rating of the alternator. A 50 amp fuse is fine for stock alternators.

[Kern Dog]

I am using a stock replacement alternator. I'm embarrassed to say I do not know the AMP rating of it! It is not the 37 amp unit though. I'm not sure what is the next one up from that. I'm not running a ton of electronics in the car. Just the radio and other stock based stuff. Besides that, an electric trunk lock release. Not much additional demand as compared to the car had when new, maybe even less since the stock A/C is no longer connected.

[Pete in NH]

A stock alternator for a 68 to 71 with A/C would be a 45 amp round back unit. So, a 50 amp fuse would be fine.

By going to an 8 gauge wire you are going to minimize voltage drop over the stock 12 gauge wire. The 8 gauge is equivalent to four 12 gauge wires in terms of the amount of copper. But, there will still only be 45 amps flowing at maximum alternator output so that is where you want to fuse the circuit. A 14 gauge fusible link would likely allow something over 80 to 90 amps before melting. Fusible links are rather wide range devices and it is difficult to predict at what current level they will actually melt. Fuses have much more defined characteristics. Hope this helps.

[fizz]

Kern, I would use the custom procedure for calibrating the fuel guage. With an aftermarket replacement style sender, still 4 gals in tank when reading empty, reading just over 3/4 when plumb full. Everything else, easy breezy.

[Kern Dog]

Thank you gentlemen!

[myk]

I am using a stock replacement alternator. I'm embarrassed to say I do not know the AMP rating of it! It is not the 37 amp unit though. I'm not sure what is the next one up from that. I'm not running a ton of electronics in the car. Just the radio and other stock based stuff. Besides that, an electric trunk lock release. Not much additional demand as compared to the car had when new, maybe even less since the stock A/C is no longer connected.

You're not running an afternarket ignition system or anything  like that?

[Kern Dog]

Nope. The Mopar Performance electronic distributor, MSD coil and Taylor wires all work just fine.
I don't need no steeenkin MSD system!

[Kern Dog]

Despite the delays of yardwork, visiting relatives and other stuff, I'm back at it and making a little progress.
I installed the oil pressure switch and temperature switch. They are unique for the guage set because of their digital processing. The speedometer pulse generator is also in and the wires for all three are routed through the firewall and into the inside. The speedo is now read by an electronic signal. The wiring to it is soft and since it sits directly above the LH header collector, I had to put in a loop/strap against the floor to keep the wire away from the header. All that remains is to run a separate ground wire for the fuel sender. This is required for proper operation. The cluster is thinner and lighter than stock. It has a "Brain box" that will be mounted directly behind the cluster.
Last week I removed the stock ammeter wiring. The 10g alternator charge wire now ends at the starter relay with a 14g fusible link in it. The interior is powered by a 10g red wire (With a 16g fusible link) that runs through a drilled out passage in the bulkhead connector. No terminal ends, it is a continuous wire soldered to the three wires that go to the Fuse Box, Ignition Switch and Headlight switch. Every new connection has been soldered and shrink wrapped to prevent corrosion.