New tranmission still rolling in park? Replaced missing rod but clicks in R

[oldcarnut]

I had my 70RR 727 transmission rebuilt several years ago and just got it and motor running for usage. Backed out the garage for the first time and put it in park and it still keeps rolling.  The shift lever was set in position and I rechecked this morning to make sure all the detents were still hitting and the lever was adjusted to fully engage and line up with column indicator. There wasn't any slack to move the lever further to park position to adjust out.  It goes into reverse and drive ok.  One thing noticed was when I put it into drive to pull back into the garage and gave it a throttle tap I heard/felt what seemed like the gears or ujoints crunching/slipping engagement briefly but that was one time.  This morning after checking the lever position I tried drive and reverse with the brake on and a little throttle and seemed normal but still no park lock up.  Its seems fairly easy to push in any gear without drag from what I remember it use to be.  I thought I'd ask here first for any suggestions to check as I haven't seen RD on here since 2012 and can't find his email address in my correspondence search for when he rebuilt it for me.   Any suggestions to check next? I sure don't want to have to pull this tranny to get taken apart again after finally so many years gone by I have it back assembled to at least running.

[oldcarnut]

I guess I'm going to be looking at a parking pawl issue.  I found this http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,42583.0.html  and this http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,67603.0.html but I hope there is a simpler fix.  I just filled that tranny up with new fluid.

[oldcarnut]

Based on anyone's prior experience, should I drop the pan and/or valve body to look for something first or just go to the tail shaft?

[John_Kunkel]

It's possible the Park rod wasn't positioned properly in the rear of the case when installed; it's possible to insert the end of the rod beside the tapered ramp rather into it. Clocking the snap ring all the way clockwise positions the lower ear of the snap ring so that it guides the rod into the correct position.

[aremar]

Before you open the transmission: Try to adjust the linkage between the gear lever and the transmission lever. It may not pull the gear lever in full Park position, could be a bit too short.

[oldcarnut]

.

[oldcarnut]

Um tearing into this today.  Any last minute tips, video links, etc to offer?  I'm hoping I don't have to drop the tranny out of the car.

[oldcarnut]

Rod is missing.  I can't believe RD would have left this out.  

[ws23rt]

Yep you do seem to be missing the "parking lock control rod" as you see in your picture from the fsm.

If that's all you are missing you wont need to drop the trans. to add it.  Just the valve body.

[oldcarnut]

Yep you do seem to be missing the "parking lock control rod" as you see in your picture from the fsm.

If that's all you are missing you wont need to drop the trans. to add it.  Just the valve body.

I've kinda lost faith in the whole rebuild job now.  I'm feeling like I need to remove the tail shaft housing for checking  on the other components.

[ws23rt]

Yep you do seem to be missing the "parking lock control rod" as you see in your picture from the fsm.

If that's all you are missing you wont need to drop the trans. to add it.  Just the valve body.

I've kinda lost faith in the whole rebuild job now.  I'm feeling like I need to remove the tail shaft housing for checking  on the other components.

That's a good idea and what I would do also.

[b5blue]

  Wow this is terrible..... I'm feeling your disappointment! The shop I paid to refresh the 6BBL left the backing plates off the metering blocks and I went through hell getting that figured out. The irony is that shop was "RD's Tuning" now long gone also.
  Let me know if you need help finding parts! 

[b5blue]

Crap Patty is away till the first of July! Here it is:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Torqueflite-727-1966-Later-Valve-Body-PARK-Actuating-Rod-ALL-Models-/222069969060?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[oldcarnut]

Thanks    I'm in the process of dropping the exhaust and all the other stuff to get the tail shaft housing off and see what else is bad.  How does something like this get left out?  Crap like this is part of the reason I cant make progress on my project because it's one step forward and then two back 

[oldcarnut]

As far as I can tell, the rest is there but nothing showing what the crunching noise was coming from.

[b5blue]

Thanks    I'm in the process of dropping the exhaust and all the other stuff to get the tail shaft housing off and see what else is bad.  How does something like this get left out?  Crap like this is part of the reason I cant make progress on my project because it's one step forward and then two back 

It's been happening to me also. Kinda kicks the fun out of the what we are trying to do!  My set backs have run me into a "heat index" of 99* this week!  Have you checked the U joints?

[oldcarnut]

U-joints are new as well as differential axle bearings.  I'll recheck again after I get a new rod in

[oldcarnut]

This is driving me nuts.  Put in another rod from a 727.  Trans goes into all gears and locks up tires in park.  While the car is on stands, I cranked it up and ran while going through the gears. In reverse, the pawl must be engaging slightly as I can here and feel it on the lever clicking away.  I disconnected the steering shaft linkage to make sure it was in gear manually moving the lever.  It clicks louder in one direction over the other but both ways even with turning the tires by hand (car shut off).  I don't see an adjustment for this and it went back together ok it seemed like.  Any suggestions?

[oldcarnut]

It's possible the Park rod wasn't positioned properly in the rear of the case when installed; it's possible to insert the end of the rod beside the tapered ramp rather into it. Clocking the snap ring all the way clockwise positions the lower ear of the snap ring so that it guides the rod into the correct position.

Will this cause it to click during rotation in reverse?

[John_Kunkel]

Possibly....it's worth checking.

[b5blue]

HEY did ya get this fixed? 

[oldcarnut]

No unfortunately the time hasn't been available to drop the valve body and try a reinstall and when it was it was just too hot to mess with it.  I need to lose some of these irons I have in the fire. 

[b5blue]

I hear ya! Feels like temp was 104 down here today. 

[oldcarnut]

Had a little bit cooler temps today after the Hurricane/storm passed through last night so I pulled the pan.  What I saw that the rod is just a hair short of totally disengaging the pawl.  I mean all I have to do is put and hold hand pressure against the shift linkage to rotate tires without the contact on it.  I don't know if the rod is slightly bent or there may be some adjustment to it, but it was installed in the right location and the detent position was right but just enough to allow the pawl to scrape across the cog.  Any suggestions other than pull it out and bend it a little?

[b5blue]

That one on Ebay lists @ 9 3/4" long, is yours different?

[oldcarnut]

I straightened out a bend in the rod to barely add a about 1/64 length and it stopped the clicking.  However, I'm going to pull another rod from a bad tranny at a friends place and compare the two to make sure its not a 904 rod I was given.  Now I see this below and I don't know what to think.  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,125640.0.html

[John_Kunkel]

Park rods, 904 on top, 727 on the bottom.

[oldcarnut]

Thanks John for the pics.  I'm pulling another rod from a 727 to compare the one I have in that was given to me as 727 rod.

[oldcarnut]

I was given a 904.  727 rod took care of it but as it turns out, other pieces were left out so Ive taken it to a trans shop for another rebuild
More issues http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,125640.0.html