Anyone here tried Hydroboost brake system before?

[ytcharger]

Braking on the Charger has been a gremlin for me, especially since I installed the Edelbrock Performance kit and front brake disk kit. I tried the biggest vacuum booster and master cylinder but still had problem braking -- won't hold front brakes to do a burnout. My friend is a genius in making things work so he suggested we find a Mustang GT Hydroboost and covert it. Oh boy! it works great now. Unless you are a smart mechanic, this is not as simple as it looks.

After 5 years of working on it on and off, we finally got the following list done:
Edelbrock Performance RPM kit + Hydraulic Lifters
Headman Headers (took some cutting and welding to make it fit with the Edelbrock topend kit)
MSD Ignition/Coils/Distributor
Tires: P215 front / P275 rear
Front brake disks
New: water pump, alternator, thermostat, heater core & fan, radiator, starter, hoses (the old parts still work but replaced anyway)
Flow Master mufflers
Holley 900 CFM Carburetor
New: carpet, side mirror, door handles,
Modern Audio System: Kenwood Stereo, Alpine Speakers and Amps, Dual 12-in Kicker Subwoofer
Transmission Shiftkit
2400rpm Torque Converter
4:10 Rearend

And Finally, Mustang GT Hydroboost (you can see this setup is very compact)

Check the Youtube Video showing the brakes can hold a peeling out. I also noticed that I need to replace a tail lamp bulb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_ovW1m36q4

[Dino]

A few members here run the direct bolt in hydro kit.  I'd go for it if I could afford it.  I thought about getting junkyard parts to keep cost down but I'm not sure it's worth it.  What all did you have to do to make it work and what's the approximate cost?

[ytcharger]

A few members here run the direct bolt in hydro kit.  I'd go for it if I could afford it.  I thought about getting junkyard parts to keep cost down but I'm not sure it's worth it.  What all did you have to do to make it work and what's the approximate cost?

The issues are knowing what fittings to use since the charger has the oddball size. I found a good used hydroboost for $150 (may be $300 or more for a new one). Spent another $150 for lines, fittings, brake and steering fluids.
We had to do the following:
1. Machine a boss into the steering manifold to adopt a standard fitting.
2. Weld the old booster linkage to the hydroboost
3. Make a push rod that is the correct length (takes a couple tries to make it right)
4. Knowing what lines goes where and what fittings to use
5. Some drilling into the firewall to fit bolt pattern of the hydroboost (a bitch to remove booster and install hydroboost due to little room for tools and very awkward)
6. Remove all linkages from brake pedal the reassemble
7. Bleed the brakes and steering

I believe the labor involved was around 8 hrs (removing the old system, modify, install new system, some trial & error work)
A shop that knows what to do would charge you an arm an a leg to do this conversion (labor would be $500 to $1000)

What is a direct bolt on Hydroboost kit? I was not aware of it and how much is it and is it easy to install?

[myk]

 There are universal kits for a wide range of generic applications. Some members here are using them.

http://www.hydratechbraking.com

[Dino]

Around $500-$600 but you still need the lines.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydroboost-Mopar-B-Body-NEW-SYSTEM-2014-HB-With-Black-MC-/251449688772?hash=item3a8b91c2c4:m:me_g1qBRU8bh5HQa7OL1zGg&vxp=mtr

I'd like to know what the Ramman charges. 

[Back N Black]

Nice charger, love the color combo. 

[Yatzee]

I installed a hydro-boost system on my car that I bought at a local auto recycler. It was a complete unit off a '99 GMC 2500 pickup which had disk on the front and shoes outback, I took everything - pump, lines for reference, pedal arm, and cooler. The only issues I had were to thread the pushrod on the booster to make the length adjustable under the dash and fabricate an adapter bracket for the fire wall mounting. Much to my surprise, I did not have to change the brake pedal arm or pin location. I had a local hydraulic shop make up the high pressure lines which are actually fabricated using ORB fittings and one fitting from the original lines I purchased. These things will mount in any position and an be rotated 180 degrees for a clean look upon installation keeping in mind the master reservoir goes up. Best mod I ever did to my Plymouth and I would do it again should I purchase another car. Braking is easy and very positive and equally as capable as the system in my 2014 car. The entire system from the recycler cast me $100. Best part is that there is no vacuum required to run this type of braking unit which was important to me because of the wild cam I run in my stroker. I give this type of mod a 5 out of 5 and with a bit of research and talent anyone can claim success on installation. Difficulty: level 4 of 5.

[myk]

Around $500-$600 but you still need the lines.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydroboost-Mopar-B-Body-NEW-SYSTEM-2014-HB-With-Black-MC-/251449688772?hash=item3a8b91c2c4:m:me_g1qBRU8bh5HQa7OL1zGg&vxp=mtr

I'd like to know what the Ramman charges.  

If all that kit needs is the lines I think that might be an attractive option.  I'm assuming custom lines to the steering pump?  Regardless, I think both of our links are attractive options for hydro boost...

[Dino]

I think the lines are the only other thing yes.  I'd like to do this on the cheap but I am not willing to remove my dash or anything to start fabricting stuff either.  I think I've taken enough apart.   

[myk]

Do you think you'd have to go as deep as the dash to install this stuff?

[Dino]

The one I linked no, it's a direct bolt in so it's the same as bolting my stock booster back in place.  Which is a pita to begin with.  But if I start with junkyard parts then I may have to do more adjustments and I'd like to limit my time under the dash.   

[Dino]

$725 for the complete kit.  There's more expensive options as well.  http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_60_72&products_id=331

[Brass]

Here is one of those more expensive options:

https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16195&cat=273&page=1

[ytcharger]

Thanks for the input guys. I can see the bolt-on kit is not cheap. Be cautious about advertisement of bolt-on kit that may NOT be truely bolt-on. I would expect some mods still needed and some understanding of how they all work together to install properly. I really don't think there is a quick and easy bolt-on kit because different vehicles have different brake pedal travel (push rod length depends on this), line lengths and contours, and fittings. One of the vendors indicated it would take 4 hrs of labor but I really think you better add a few more hours to that.

For me, I bought a good used Mustang GT hydroboost with master cylinder and new lines and fitting that costs around $300.

The bottom line, who all done this and please share the experience and results (pics, videos).

[WHITE AND RED 69]

You might want to double check the psi rating on those fabric braided hoses. Most fabric braided hoses are not for use on high pressure power steering and will collapse. That is why all kits sold include steel braided hose.

I'm using the Reilly Motorsports kit on mine for the last 4 or so years and it has worked flawlessly. Their kit is well thought out and is tailored to 68-70 b bodies. Install was straight forward and took about 6 hours.

[ytcharger]

You might want to double check the psi rating on those fabric braided hoses. Most fabric braided hoses are not for use on high pressure power steering and will collapse. That is why all kits sold include steel braided hose.

I'm using the Reilly Motorsports kit on mine for the last 4 or so years and it has worked flawlessly. Their kit is well thought out and is tailored to 68-70 b bodies. Install was straight forward and took about 6 hours.

The website shows almost $1300 for the kit.

[myk]

Lesson #1 in hot rodding: there is no such thing as a direct bolt in.  There will always be a bit of finagling or adjusting or whatever in order to get the aftermarket stuff to work with the factory stuff.  With that being said, I commend the OP for being able to scrounge up the correct pieces to get the system to work.  I will have to go the kit route, but I don't expect it to just drop in, either...

[ytcharger]

Lesson #1 in hot rodding: there is no such thing as a direct bolt in.  There will always be a bit of finagling or adjusting or whatever in order to get the aftermarket stuff to work with the factory stuff.  With that being said, I commend the OP for being able to scrounge up the correct pieces to get the system to work.  I will have to go the kit route, but I don't expect it to just drop in, either...

Which kit? The $1300 kit? Let us know how it turns out.

[Dino]

Can anyone explain to me the $570 difference between two kits that are supposedly complete?  I don't get it.

[ytcharger]

Nice charger, love the color combo. 

Thanks!

[myk]

Lesson #1 in hot rodding: there is no such thing as a direct bolt in.  There will always be a bit of finagling or adjusting or whatever in order to get the aftermarket stuff to work with the factory stuff.  With that being said, I commend the OP for being able to scrounge up the correct pieces to get the system to work.  I will have to go the kit route, but I don't expect it to just drop in, either...

Which kit? The $1300 kit? Let us know how it turns out.

I won't be doing hydro boost until my gauge cluster is sorted out, and I've decided between the Borgeson or Firm Feel steering box.  For what it is, my factory discs are adequate for now...

[Rolling_Thunder]

Did it years ago -   Chevy astro van booster, buddy owed me a favor so he scored one and rebuilt it for me. Ramcharger brake booster, fabbed a pushrod pedal. ordered a mounting bracket from Talon hydraulic - had Earl's lines made and bolted the bad boy in.

total investment was somewhere around $200....    the mounting bracket and the lines were the highest costing parts.

[myk]

 

[1970Moparmann]

Hydroost was the #1 best thing I did to my car!   

[myk]

What system/parts are you using?

[1970Moparmann]

What system/parts are you using?

Hydratech Kit.  The only issue I had is the Master Cylinder went out after about 4,000 miles.  I put a Wilwood one on as a replacement and the last 2,000 have been good!

[myk]

Looks like I've got the first candidate for consideration, then...

[Mike DC]

I think this subject is overdue for that big epic once-and-for-all magazine article.  You know, the one that thoroughly explains all the common/practical swapping options and everyone is still referencing it 15 years later. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

I believe "Chevelle" magazine did it about a year ago...    dont quote me 100% on it but one of the mags did....   it was like a 2 page deal....     

[bill440rt]

Hydratech kit here as well, ordered thru RMS.
Don't remember paying anywhere near that as referenced in a previous post, but again this is going back a few years.
Came as a complete kit, lines, everything. Very easy to install. Only "mod" I had to do was just open up slightly two of the holes on the firewall for the bolts to pass thru. Just a little work with a file is all.
Awesome upgrade, compliments the Wilwood disc/disc setup very well.

[68ChargerJMP]

Did it years ago -   Chevy astro van booster, buddy owed me a favor so he scored one and rebuilt it for me. Ramcharger brake booster, fabbed a pushrod pedal. ordered a mounting bracket from Talon hydraulic - had Earl's lines made and bolted the bad boy in.

total investment was somewhere around $200....    the mounting bracket and the lines were the highest costing parts.

I know I'm dredging up an old thread......but why did you need a ramcharger booster with the hydroboost???...did you mean master cylinder?

Also, what year astro van or gm HB will work? I almost got one from a 96 astro van today but it was angled way down so I didn't get it....thanks.

[Dino]

Did it years ago -   Chevy astro van booster, buddy owed me a favor so he scored one and rebuilt it for me. Ramcharger brake booster, fabbed a pushrod pedal. ordered a mounting bracket from Talon hydraulic - had Earl's lines made and bolted the bad boy in.

total investment was somewhere around $200....    the mounting bracket and the lines were the highest costing parts.

I know I'm dredging up an old thread......but why did you need a ramcharger booster with the hydroboost???...did you mean master cylinder?

Also, what year astro van or gm HB will work? I almost got one from a 96 astro van today but it was angled way down so I didn't get it....thanks.

Yes he meant master cylinder. I got the same one. Don't get the angled booster. I got mine off a '94 I believe. Just make sure it's straight and you'll be good to go. Paid around $45 for mine including shipping from a wrecking yard through Ebay. I got the billet mounting plate from Talon. You could make one yourself but the talon ones are really nice and come with the socket tool.

[68ChargerJMP]

Thanks.

[Toni]

I done hydroboost swap at very low cost.  You can read more at my topic.  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,111884.75.html

I have to say that i love it. 

In next spring i'm going to install small cooler.
If the whether is very hot and i cruising slow at long time then brakes start to drag.  I blame the heat of that.

Toni.

[One mopar]

Thanks guys for the input was going to skip the cooler  but you're saying it's best not to? Thanks bill440rt I believe that are cars have similar brakes willwood 6 piston 12.88 rotors in the furnd and 4 piston 11in rotors ish in the back I'm glad that I'm not the only one who likes hyroboosted breaks on mine I'm looking for the bendix abs 9 or 10 master cylinder just haven't gotten my hands on one yet driving me up the wall  I'd use the bosh one but its bigger and I'm working on putting a recirculating lines ( like a race car that cools its brake fluid. I'm going to daily drive it and maybe auto X ) and abs some time soon the abs box isn't going to be much use intell I get the right parts but I'm planning a head so can for now I have a 383 ish RB big block all so getting cheep twin turbochargers T4 B 2 frame  any one with an idea chime in

[Yatzee]

In reply to your query I have now had hydra boost on my car since October 2015 without a single issue. That was the first time I posted an answer to someone's question. Most units will fit on almost any vehicle by adapting the mounting plate ( I used two 1" channels to bridge the mounting hole differences) and you can now purchase an adjustable push rod. Plumbing is very simple provided you're using a Saginaw pump and I have since flipped my unit which puts the hydraulic lines on the same side as the inner fender shield. Have to do a "double take" to see the lines.

[One mopar]

Thanks for advice  some people say they have lots of problems with them   I got to drive a Diesel truck ( 2003  dura Max and a power stroke) and that's what sold me on one and the family . Because of the parts that I'm using I basically have a 12 L x6 H x6 W inch box 📦 to work with the jeep that's got the bendix one is from 1985-1995~ xj / kcars with ABS aka anti-lock brakes

[One mopar]

Ok so update I got one yay  I think it even works its from a 1990 xj jeep Cherokee at hard rock 4x4 in San Diego California jonn is who I talk to so helpful and so far very reasonable