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Battery tray bolts and U nuts

Started by Dino, October 01, 2015, 10:32:37 PM

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Dino

My old battery tray was attached with all kinds of different bolts and U nuts, I think only 3 were original.  I think I need 8 bolts and 7 U nuts: 2 each hold the tray to the inner fender, 2 each to the curved brackets under the tray and an adittional 2 each hold those brackes to the inner fender.  Lastly 1 each on the long strap and the tray and a single bolt holding the strap to the inner fender  Does this sound right? Are all 8 bolts the same?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

WHITE AND RED 69

The seven bolts that hold the tray, short brackets, and the long bracket where it connects to the tray are the same. But I think the one bolt that holds the long brace to the top of the fender is a smaller bolt??? I will double check once I get home.

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Dino

Mopar Nut posted a picture in my engine bay pic request thread and confirmed that is indeed a smaller bolt.   :yesnod:  So you go ahead and go straight to your fridge for a cold one.   :cheers:   :lol:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Dirk, do you have your tray installed yet?  Your thread motivated me to buy a tray and braces kit but like your car before, my current tray is held on with random bolts and pieces.  With the new tray kit I don't quite see how it should attach to the car.  Any guidance from your experience would be helpful!

Dino

Yes I test fit the tray this morning but removed it again as it'll be in the way when I install other parts.  I may have to leave it out until the engine is in.  Anyway, the tray is bolted to the inner fender with two bolts and one bolt to each of the S shaped brackets.  The S shaped brackets have one end that is bent at almost 90 degrees and one end that is sharper and has a flatter top.  That end is bolted to the bottom of the tray while the rounder end is bolted to the inner fender on either side of the vacuum canister.  The long strap has a bent end that goes on the top of the inner fender near the fender tag while the other end receives a U nut and bolts to the side of the tray.  I can get you pictures tomorrow.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Hmmmm....I think my tray only has one bolt hole to the fender.  And I think my S brackets are the same shape?  How confusing.  If you could post some pictures I'd appreciate...

Dino

The S shaped brackets do look the same no matter how you turn them, but one end is a bit sharper and flatter than the other.  That end bolts to the tray. 

Here's a few pics that show the brackets on either side of the vacuum canister and the tray sitting on top of them.  You can also see where the U nuts in the inner fender go and where the long strap goes.  If you need more pics just let me know.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

WHITE AND RED 69

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Dino

You have no idea how giddy it makes me just looking at this engine bay.  The before pics are scary!   :lol:

The vacuum can alone looked like it was lost at sea.  I stripped it and painted it semi gloss black while the connector received two light coats of yellow Duplicolor Metalcast and a light dusting of gold.  Much better now!

The vacuum hoses would have been a total loss but I can't afford the new ones so I repaired mine.  I should be done with them tomorrow and I wish I took before pics.

Maybe I should start a single thread with the progress?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

1974dodgecharger


myk

Dirk thanks for the pictures.  I'm sure that all I will need to do now is procure the right bolts/nuts...

Dino

You're welcome  :cheers:

Lowes has the bolts.  They are 5/16-18 x 1 1/4"

I bought a bag of 25 bolts and 25 U nuts on ebay since I needed a bunch more.  They are a tad longer and the U nuts don't have that roundness to them but you can't tell once installed anyway so I didn't care.  The correct bolts and nuts are on ebay as well.  Just look for mopar body bolts.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

green69rt

Are you going to leave all the bolt heads etc unpainted? 

Dino

No all of the bolts and clips will be painted once it's all assembled.  There is no point in painting them if you still have to put a wrench on them.

I'm painting the fender tag screws and S bracket bolts first as they can stay.  The tray will probably not go back on until the engine is in so those bolts will be done when.the hood bolts will be painted, and I need to do some touch ups o the front of both fenders.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

You know I never noticed that loooooong brace that goes on the front of the tray and mounts by the fender tag.  That looks like an awkward setup doesn't it?  My kit didn't have that piece, I'll have to get that as well...

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Quote from: Dino on October 12, 2015, 04:42:06 PM
Yeah it's a weird design, but you do need that strap.  Here it is, 9th one down.  http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=bbody&sub1=Underhood&sub2=Battery%20Tray

Goddamn it.  I just bought the "kit" from them too.  Why wouldn't they include that long brace or the bolts?  Ah well, here's to keeping the USPS in business....

Dino

That's a good question.  These "kits" usually mean you get most of what you need so crack the wallet open a bit more if you want all of it!  Maybe you can try the parts wanted section first.  I know some people have moved the battery to the trunk so they won't have a use for that strap anymore.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Dirk,  just wanted to thank you again for your assistance with the battery tray.  I was finally able to get mine in but there were some complications.  

First, the part of the fender which housed the front-most, horizontally oriented u-nut was just....GONE...like someone just took an inch by inch section of the steel and just ripped/cut/twisted it out.  Even if I tried to put in a u-nut, there was nowhere for it to grab a hold.

Secondly, I was not able to mount the top fender brace  because my fat aluminum radiator is blocking the hole for the brace.  

Finally, just how do those J-nuts and battery hold down strap fit onto the tray?  I just don't get it.  There's a short j-nut and a longer one... :shruggy:

I'll post a picture of what was holding my battery before.  I was aghast seeing what the PO's did to get a battery in there.



Someone put in the wrong tray and drilled NEW holes in the fender to hold it.   :slap:

Mopar Nut

Quote from: myk on November 04, 2015, 03:58:37 PM
Finally, just how do those J-nuts and battery hold down strap fit onto the tray?  I just don't get it.  There's a short j-nut and a longer one... :shruggy:

The short J rod hooks into the fender and the longer one hooks on the tray and strap connects to the front of tray.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

WHITE AND RED 69

Hooks go into these holes   :2thumbs:

How big is your radiator?

Edit: Whoops, didn't see Mopar Nut already posted pics of the hook locations
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

myk

Thanks boys!  My aluminum radiator is the one that A383wing pointed me to; it's a 1 inch x 2 tubed deal by Engineered Cooling Products.  The tray is just one thing I've had to adjust because of the thickness of the radiator.  No regrets, though!

cdr

Quote from: myk on November 04, 2015, 10:32:11 PM
Thanks boys!  My aluminum radiator is the one that A383wing pointed me to; it's a 1 inch x 2 tubed deal by Engineered Cooling Products.  The tray is just one thing I've had to adjust because of the thickness of the radiator.  No regrets, though!

i have the same radiator, i had to cut the radiator mounting to clear the frame rail & battery box.  no big deal,, if you need pictures let me know.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

myk

Quote from: cdr on November 04, 2015, 11:26:42 PM
Quote from: myk on November 04, 2015, 10:32:11 PM
Thanks boys!  My aluminum radiator is the one that A383wing pointed me to; it's a 1 inch x 2 tubed deal by Engineered Cooling Products.  The tray is just one thing I've had to adjust because of the thickness of the radiator.  No regrets, though!

i have the same radiator, i had to cut the radiator mounting to clear the frame rail & battery box.  no big deal,, if you need pictures let me know.

Please post those up, if it isn't too much trouble..

Dino

Thanks guys for helping Myk out.   :cheers:

I was without internet for a while and only just saw this. 
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

cdr






I am using the 70 model fan shroud.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

myk

Thanks again Dirk, everyone. 

CDR, that's pretty much what I had to do with the 'rad, I'm glad I wasn't the only one who had to do so...