Cooling cliche

[myk]

Yeah I got all that.  We'll see what happens when the Milidon water pump and aluminum radiator with 1" tubes x 2 goes in...

there was an extensive test done on water pumps here, and the Milidon from what I remember didn't cut it...stick with a stock pump, but you don't listen to me anyway   

Now wait a minute I listen to you just fine lol.  Seriously, doesn't the Godfather Ron run the Milidon and endorse it fully?  

[Kern Dog]

Nothing wrong with a parts store radiator. I would venture to say you need more capacity for your given airflow. If you already have the aluminum one on hand, put it in. Night and day difference.

Nothing wrong? Have you inspected the size of the cooling tubes? Many are woefully small and flow barely half of a stock OEM radiator. I have found that the 26" radiators from the 1985-89 Diplomat cop cars have more than adequate flow. You have to be careful though about the generic replacements for those applications. They may look similar and fit the same, but look below the cap and sometimes you'll see that the "core" is fitted with smaller, more restrictive tubes.
I run a Griffin 2 core, but the tubes are almost 1 1/2 times the size of the stock ones my original 26" 318 with A/C unit had. I have run with and without a shroud, but I do have a 7 blade stock fan and a thermo-style fan clutch. Another thing some forget is the rubber seals that are on the underside of the hood and the back side of the 1970 front bumper. ZERO overheating issues. I've had the car on the road since 2002 with this radiator. Temperatures from 40 degrees to 105 and it has never boiled over once. Maybe I've had a run of good luck, maybe I just got it right on accident....

[A383Wing]

Yeah I got all that.  We'll see what happens when the Milidon water pump and aluminum radiator with 1" tubes x 2 goes in...

there was an extensive test done on water pumps here, and the Milidon from what I remember didn't cut it...stick with a stock pump, but you don't listen to me anyway   

Now wait a minute I listen to you just fine lol.  Seriously, doesn't the Godfather Ron run the Milidon and endorse it fully?  

I can't find the cooling thread that had maybe 4+ water pumps tested against each other...you might want to find it and read up....

[cdr]

the milidon pump is the good one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.msg675761.html#msg675761

[A383Wing]

the milidon pump is the good one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.msg675761.html#msg675761

yea, my bad....I could not remember which of the high priced pumps were not all that good...that thread needs to be made a sticky, seems many here have cooling issues related to mis-matched pulleys and bad design pumps

I  told him to use studs  and nuts on the fan clutch, like he said, he doesn't listen to me

[myk]

the milidon pump is the good one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.msg675761.html#msg675761

yea, my bad....I could not remember which of the high priced pumps were not all that good...that thread needs to be made a sticky, seems many here have cooling issues related to mis-matched pulleys and bad design pumps

I  told him to use studs  and nuts on the fan clutch, like he said, he doesn't listen to me

Yeah I'm never gonna hear the end of that.   

Well I might install everything else tomorrow.  I'll let you guys know if the car melts into molten steel afterwards...

[fy469rtse]

You had better get this right Myk, otherwise you won't hear the end of it
I have run quite a few different pumps over the years,
Hemi pump stock, 7 blade I think from memory, towing package with the anti cavitation plate, rebuild able too,
Champion 26" large open three core, almost the width of a 4, good price radiators too
I use a high speed rated stainless blade flex fan 7 blade,
The idea of these is they work better at idle and at high rpm the fan blades flatten out when air flow good coming through car , similar to clutch fan, although you must buy a good one ,
The water pump thread is stickied , have a good read
Mine runs 180 all day everyday.
512 victor headed stroker 11.75 /1 comp
With the overflow bottle , make sure you get a modern radiator cap that seals to neck and top of neck, like a modern cars overflow, when hot cap will open and push excess to overflow bottle, and retrieve it when needed,
Does that make sense

[c00nhunterjoe]

Nothing wrong with a parts store radiator. I would venture to say you need more capacity for your given airflow. If you already have the aluminum one on hand, put it in. Night and day difference.

Nothing wrong? Have you inspected the size of the cooling tubes? Many are woefully small and flow barely half of a stock OEM radiator. I have found that the 26" radiators from the 1985-89 Diplomat cop cars have more than adequate flow. You have to be careful though about the generic replacements for those applications. They may look similar and fit the same, but look below the cap and sometimes you'll see that the "core" is fitted with smaller, more restrictive tubes.
I run a Griffin 2 core, but the tubes are almost 1 1/2 times the size of the stock ones my original 26" 318 with A/C unit had. I have run with and without a shroud, but I do have a 7 blade stock fan and a thermo-style fan clutch. Another thing some forget is the rubber seals that are on the underside of the hood and the back side of the 1970 front bumper. ZERO overheating issues. I've had the car on the road since 2002 with this radiator. Temperatures from 40 degrees to 105 and it has never boiled over once. Maybe I've had a run of good luck, maybe I just got it right on accident....

I had a "parts store" 26" 3 row in my belevedere for years. The 440 in it was far from mild and i had no issues cooling it.

[myk]

You had better get this right Myk, otherwise you won't hear the end of it
I have run quite a few different pumps over the years,
Hemi pump stock, 7 blade I think from memory, towing package with the anti cavitation plate, rebuild able too,
Champion 26" large open three core, almost the width of a 4, good price radiators too
I use a high speed rated stainless blade flex fan 7 blade,
The idea of these is they work better at idle and at high rpm the fan blades flatten out when air flow good coming through car , similar to clutch fan, although you must buy a good one ,
The water pump thread is stickied , have a good read
Mine runs 180 all day everyday.
512 victor headed stroker 11.75 /1 comp
With the overflow bottle , make sure you get a modern radiator cap that seals to neck and top of neck, like a modern cars overflow, when hot cap will open and push excess to overflow bottle, and retrieve it when needed,
Does that make sense

I'll look into that cap, that's a good idea.  Question: how long do I have to let the gasket and sealant on the pump and the t-stat set before I refill the system with coolant?  I know on some cars like my 90's vehicles there's no waiting time or even sealant required...

[cdr]

the milidon pump is the good one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.msg675761.html#msg675761

yea, my bad....I could not remember which of the high priced pumps were not all that good...that thread needs to be made a sticky, seems many here have cooling issues related to mis-matched pulleys and bad design pumps

I  told him to use studs  and nuts on the fan clutch, like he said, he doesn't listen to me

it is a sticky, 4th one down in the engines & transmissions section

[myk]

Allllllrighty then.  After removing and replacing the water pump, radiator and fan clutch, and filling the radiator TWICE because I left the petcock turned the wrong way and pissed my first batch of coolant all over the driveway, I got the car to idle for 40 minutes and hold 190*.  Granted, it was only 80* outside today but running the car in similar conditions two days ago got me 210-220* after 30 minutes.  And this is WITHOUT even bothering to reinstall the electric fan.  Before, I could hold the car at 200-210* but that was with the help of the pusher fan.  After removing the Edelbrock Victor pump I noticed a streak of residue out of the weep hole-looks like it's been doing this for some time but gradually, since I never noticed any major leaks or spills.  

Now, I'm starting to hear things about special pitfalls regarding aluminum radiators.  Something about needing a ground strap for the radiator, the quality or type of the water, etc, etc?  Last thing I want to do is trash my new 'rad and revitalized cooling system.  Also, I can't remember the last time I had to refill the 727 with fluid; what do these things take these days?  I lost a noticeable amount of ATF during the swap.  I'll test the car tonight and tomorrow and hopefully I'll be good to go for the last Cruisin' Grand on Friday.  In any case, thanks to everyone for helping out, except for Bryan because I don't listen to what he says anyway.  Lol, just kidding, he's the one who pointed me to that great radiator deal from Engineered Cooling Products.  It really works!  

[c00nhunterjoe]

At least you know its thoroughly flushed... lol. Glad to hear its cooling. The grou d strap has been argued for years. I personally have never had an issue without them. The theory on the water is if you use tap or well water, it has minerals in it that can speed up corrosion. Distilled water is an option. Fwiw, i run tap water 50/50 and a bottle of water wetter. 16 years on this engine with no problems. The race car has been together 15 years running ALL aluminum components with no issues either on 100% well water/ 1 bottle water wetter.

As for the trans- if its red, you can pretty much use it to top it off. Atf 3,atf4, dexron, mercon, whatever. I wouldnt run the specialty stuff for cvt trans or weird stuff like that.... although i did run turbine oil in one of mine for a while as an experiment....lol

[A383Wing]

if you mounted the aluminum radiator to the core support with screws or nuts & bolts, it's already grounded to the body. Some say use a zinc anode, but I have never seen an issue using aluminum rads in cars over the years, even the new cars use them without any change in coolant or zinc anode.

Curious, what fan clutch did you finally end up using?

[myk]

if you mounted the aluminum radiator to the core support with screws or nuts & bolts, it's already grounded to the body. Some say use a zinc anode, but I have never seen an issue using aluminum rads in cars over the years, even the new cars use them without any change in coolant or zinc anode.

Curious, what fan clutch did you finally end up using?

I bought the Hayden 2765.  Please don't yell at me haha.

So on a 40 mile one way cruise this thing held 160.  Is there such a thing as too cold?

[A383Wing]

I would have put a 180* stat in, but that's just my opinion

[myk]

I would have put a 180* stat in, but that's just my opinion

I am putting a 180* t stat in tomorrow; it came late and I didn't want to wait tonight so I just buttoned everything up...