What fuel pump pushrod for mechanical flat tappet cam?

[Chargerguy74]

I'm running a Comp XS282S mechanical flat tappet cam in my 440 with a Carter M6903 mechanical fuel pump http://www.manciniracing.com/cabheen5psis.html

I used a Comp 4626 fuel pump pushrod and after the dyno it was 0.25" shorter than when it went in. This pushrod was supposed to be for flat tappet cams only. I really don't want this to happen again now that I have all new bearings. What are you guys using?

[cdr]

the stock one is correct for any cam, exept a steel type roller cam,, that said i ordered mine from Trend performance , it is light & has tool steel ends, the roller cam would use one with a bronze end.

[Chargerguy74]

Thanks

Maybe my fuel pump spring is a little much. I've read a bunch about quality control issues with some pushrods. I feel like just going with an electric pump now so this doesn't happen again.

[myk]

Don't do an electrical pump if you don't have to.  One thing about mechanical pumps is that they're 100% reliable.  IF you go electrical, that's just one more part that could malfunction.  Give that pushrod that CD-R is talking about first...

[Chargerguy74]

The Trend Performance ones look promising. I think I'll order a couple.

[cdr]

The Trend Performance ones look promising. I think I'll order a couple.

i got 2, 15.00 each plus shipping,

[Chargerguy74]

That's amazing. I don't see them in their catalog. I'll give them a call.

[Chargerguy74]

I've had some fuel pump pushrod issues LOL

[cdr]

dang!!! that looks bad, i hope the cam is ok.

[Chargerguy74]

The cam looks "okay" but one side of the eccentric is a little shiny and the parkerizing gone. It looked good initially, but today when reinstalling it I had another look in the right light and I didn't like it. Who knows it may be fine, I don't know, but what I do know is replacing bearings and flushing out metal particles on a new engine that has yet to make it into my charger sucks. I think I'll start another thread on that. New cam being ordered Monday.

[firefighter3931]

The cam looks "okay" but one side of the eccentric is a little shiny and the parkerizing gone. It looked good initially, but today when reinstalling it I had another look in the right light and I didn't like it. Who knows it may be fine, I don't know, but what I do know is replacing bearings and flushing out metal particles on a new engine that has yet to make it into my charger sucks. I think I'll start another thread on that. New cam being ordered Monday.

Ryan,

When you order a new cam have them "nitride" it. 

I like the idea of a tool steel pushrod in conjunction with a nitride treated camshaft. I only use Brad Penn semi synthetic racing oil. No additives required...it has an excellent EP formulation package 


Ron

[Chargerguy74]

Sounds good. I'll call comp tomorrow.

[John_Kunkel]

One thing about mechanical pumps is that they're 100% reliable. 

Yep, that's why auto supplies stock replacements. 

[Chargerguy74]

The cam looks "okay" but one side of the eccentric is a little shiny and the parkerizing gone. It looked good initially, but today when reinstalling it I had another look in the right light and I didn't like it. Who knows it may be fine, I don't know, but what I do know is replacing bearings and flushing out metal particles on a new engine that has yet to make it into my charger sucks. I think I'll start another thread on that. New cam being ordered Monday.

Ryan,

When you order a new cam have them "nitride" it. 

I like the idea of a tool steel pushrod in conjunction with a nitride treated camshaft. I only use Brad Penn semi synthetic racing oil. No additives required...it has an excellent EP formulation package 


Ron

Ordered yesterday. Went with the nitriding, it's the exact same price as the cam, don't want to take anymore chances so I'm fine with that.

[myk]

One thing about mechanical pumps is that they're 100% reliable.

Yep, that's why auto supplies stock replacements.  

Good lord, calm yourself.  I never said they never failed but when compared to an electrical pump made in China or Mexico they're just about bulletproof.  Would you feel better if I said 99% reliable?  How about 97.6%?  I ran a mechanical pump for 15 years and never had a problem.  As soon as the electrical ones went in I was using my AAA towing service so much the drivers and I were on a first name basis.  Electronic accessories will never be more reliable than mechanical ones.  MY POINT STANDS...

[justcruisin]

I have had good service with mechanical pumps, that being said, new cars don't seem to run them and they seem to get at least 100K miles out of the in-tank pumps - think their electric, yep, all the ones I have replaced are. Good quality electric pumps are every bit as reliable as mechanical pumps, the main cause of premature electric pump failure is poor filtration and ingress of some nature - IMO. The problem also can be crap manufacture, that can be electric or mechanical. Hard to know sometimes just what you are buying.

[firefighter3931]

The cam looks "okay" but one side of the eccentric is a little shiny and the parkerizing gone. It looked good initially, but today when reinstalling it I had another look in the right light and I didn't like it. Who knows it may be fine, I don't know, but what I do know is replacing bearings and flushing out metal particles on a new engine that has yet to make it into my charger sucks. I think I'll start another thread on that. New cam being ordered Monday.

Ryan,

When you order a new cam have them "nitride" it. 

I like the idea of a tool steel pushrod in conjunction with a nitride treated camshaft. I only use Brad Penn semi synthetic racing oil. No additives required...it has an excellent EP formulation package 


Ron

Ordered yesterday. Went with the nitriding, it's the exact same price as the cam, don't want to take anymore chances so I'm fine with that.

Good call on the nitriding.....that'll keep things happy inside the engine 


Ron