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Help with cam selection

Started by 68charger440, September 23, 2015, 08:38:19 AM

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68charger440

I need help with selecting a cam.  Here is some info you will need to help me.

68 Charger
440 bored 40 over with a balanced 500 inch stroker kit installed
Stock fresh 906 heads with stock stamped steel assembly
10.52 static compression. 190 compression across the board when adjusted for my altitude. Low 160s when not adjusted for altitude
edelbrock performer rpm intake
Edelbrock performer cam
MSD all in one dizzy
Blaster II coil
Mallory Hyfire VI ignition box currently disconnected due to previous electrical problems.
Proform 850 DP
Stock converter
3" exhaust from headers on back with x-pipe in the middle
3.91 sure grip
18 initial timing 34 total
5500 foot altitude

I am wanting to get a little boost in power without killing my street manners.  Going to the track is a once in a while thing so I don't want anything too much, and for now I want to keep the 906 heads and stock stamped steel assembly if possible.  My stamped steel assemblies only have about 20000 miles on them.  I don't want to change the converter either for now.  Right now it has pretty good torque at low rpm range, but falls off after 4000 rpm going by the seat of my pants.  It sounds stock with the Performer cam (not Performer RPM).  I want to be able to drive it all summer on weekends every year without too much worry.  I also would like to hear a bit of the old musclecar lopey idle.  Not too much so that I will not be able to go on long cruises every year without worry, but enough that people will know when they pull up next to it that it is not stock.
Let me know if you need more info.
Thanks
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

Challenger340

There are some extremely good BB Mopar Camshaft resources here on this Site with invaluable "real world" testing/driving experience, and I am sure Firefighter(Ron), BSB67 and other's will chime in soon.

To that end...
it may also help them, if you could get a part # or specs on the current Cam you are using beyond "edelbrock performer cam" ?
Are you currently running the 2192 ? 7194 ?
just nicer for them to see "where" you are now in a Camshaft... to assess how other Cams they might reccommend will be an improvement.

just my opinion...
but it is not surprising to me that it feels like it "drops off past 4,000 rpm" with "stock" 906 Heads on a 500 cubic inch engine ?
pretty big airflow choke point there to overcome ?

:Twocents: for explanation,
"Stock" 906 Heads can be a very limiting factor on even a performance "440" engine build rpm-wise, now add an extra 10+% demand on airflow that the 500" wants for best results.... and well..... with camshafts events, Stroker's can eat up duration @ .050 pretty quick, and you typically don't GAIN anything , without GIVING something up somewhere else ?
So,
"gaining" above 4,000 rpm with a limited airflow 906 Head on a 500" engine could be a finite capacity within the driving criterion you expressed ?
Nonetheless,
OVER-camming it a bit could be a good idea in my books... but at the potential expense of power brake vacuum ?

I'll shutup now
BTW
NICE CAR  :2thumbs: 
Only wimps wear Bowties !

firefighter3931

The "performer" cam is very modest even for a 440 cubed engine. In a 500in build it would be extremely small. The elevation does help somewhat with detonation but still....it needs more cam for the top end charge.  :yesnod:

A nice upgrade would be the Crower HDP282 grind. More lift and duration with a split pattern that works well with stock cylinder heads. It won't give up much on the bottom end but pull much better up top. Nice lope at idle that nobody will mistake for stock.  :icon_smile_big:

http://www.crower.com/mopar-350-440-b-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-282-hdp.html

cam comparison :

Performer vs Crower 282

advertised duration ; 270/280 vs 282/292
duration@.050 ; 204/214 vs 228/236
valve lift ; .420/.442 vs .478/.502
LSA ; 112 vs 112

*the Crower is better everywhere you need it to be  :icon_smile_cool:


You might have to upgrade the valvesprings depending on what was installed when the engine was built ?  The Comp #911 spring would be fine and would fit right on your current heads using the existing retainers and valve locks.  ;)

Normally with a 500in build I would go bigger than the HDP282 but the 5500ft elevation has me thinking this one would work very well for you   :cheers:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

68charger440

Thanks guys.
I'll attach the Edelbrock spec sheet that came with the cam for anyone else that wants IT.  Also there are no power brakes to worry about. I'll drag my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to stop! :icon_smile_big:

Ron, that Crower will be happy with say 5000 miles a year on it cruising around, and still be good for many years to come?
One other thing, I am also toying with the idea of getting either the Stealth or Edelbrock RPM heads, but probably not this year.  Would that Crower still play well with either of them in the mix? 
I don't mind if I have to replace the cam also if I do get the heads next year, but I thought I would ask.
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

firefighter3931

Quote from: 68charger440 on September 23, 2015, 11:01:54 AM
Ron, that Crower will be happy with say 5000 miles a year on it cruising around, and still be good for many years to come?
One other thing, I am also toying with the idea of getting either the Stealth or Edelbrock RPM heads, but probably not this year.  Would that Crower still play well with either of them in the mix? 
I don't mind if I have to replace the cam also if I do get the heads next year, but I thought I would ask.



The Crower will live fine on the street....it's not overly aggressive and the spring rate is reasonable. Just keep running Brad Penn and it will have a long and happy life.  :yesnod:

The HDP282 will work fine with an aftermarket cylinder head....no worries there  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

68charger440

You don't see a problem reusing the lifters that came with the Edelbrock Performer 2192 kit too, do you? There are probably between 5,000 and 10,000 miles on them.
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

firefighter3931

Quote from: cdr on September 24, 2015, 03:38:55 PM
you will need new lifters.  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95605.0.html             read this link


Definitely replace the lifters with a new cam and break them in properly. Under no circumstance install a used flat tappet lifter on a new cam....that will wipe the cam for sure !  :icon_smile_blackeye:

The Johnson hylift lifters are high quality  :2thumbs:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

68charger440

I was afraid you guys would say that, now I'll have to go and buy my wife a new set of diamond earings.  :icon_smile_wink:  These parts always cost twice what you would think. :brickwall:
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

BLK 68 R/T


68charger440

When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

68charger440

On that Crower link they suggest a double spring kit to go along with it.  Since I am considering new heads also, should I also consider the dual springs?  I am considering those CNC ported Stealth heads from 440Source.
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!

303 Mopar

Quote from: 68charger440 on September 25, 2015, 08:04:39 PM
On that Crower link they suggest a double spring kit to go along with it.  Since I am considering new heads also, should I also consider the dual springs?  I am considering those CNC ported Stealth heads from 440Source.

Anything about .500 lift needs double springs.  Otherwise go with slight more spring than you need as they wear out over time.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

firefighter3931

Quote from: 68charger440 on September 25, 2015, 08:04:39 PM
On that Crower link they suggest a double spring kit to go along with it.  Since I am considering new heads also, should I also consider the dual springs?  I am considering those CNC ported Stealth heads from 440Source.


Jim,

The std spring that comes with the Stealth heads is a single with dampner....it is fine with that Crower cam.  :yesnod:

If you're going to keep the stock heads use a Comp #911 valvespring which is also a single with dampner.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

68charger440

Thanks for the info guys.  I read that the Stealth heads had some problems years ago, but that they are better now. Do you know if they good these days? 
I am looking at the Modern Cylinder Head CNC ported ones, not the unported ones.  Is the work that Modern Cylinder Heads does good to go out of the box, or do you have to have them re-done?
When someone is absolutely 100% sure they know exactly what your problem is and how to fix it, it's time to ask someone else!