Vapor lock driving me crazy

[cdr]

no that regulator is not for a return set up.





Cast Bypass Regulator W/JET - Features blue powder-coated top and is desgined for use with a belt driven or mechanical fuel pump. Adjustable jet provides tuning of low RPM fuel pressure. Comes with stainless mounting bracket. All threads are NPT

[68charger440]

Ok, thanks!
Anyone in the market for a shiny Holley non return line regulator?

[68charger440]

CDR... what wheel/tire sizes are you running?  I like the way it sits and the back wheels look like they come out close to the inner lip which is a look I am after.

[cdr]

295 50 15  on 15x10 5in backspacing , they dont rub

[68charger440]

Do you have a straight on view from the side picture somewhere on the site?

[cdr]

[68charger440]

Going by the measurments from my car using your wheel and tire combo I would have roughly 1/2 " space between the inner lip of the wheel well and the fattest part of the tire if the tire was sitting high enough in the wheel well.  Is that about what you have?

[cdr]

yes

[69wannabe]

I have been fighting the same fuel problem that you are having and I have done a few thing's that have suppressed my problem in a way that make it tolerable. It was worse on the warmer day's (90's+) but still doable. I am running a single 3/8 line from the tank to a carter street pump. then I molded a line similar to the original with a metal filter and then it run's up behind the alternator and up over the valve cover to the dual line tee. I cut a piece of rubber line and put over the steel line from the filter up behind the alternator and then put some of that thermo sleeve over that from the filter up to the tee. Then I put a cool carb technology's carb spacer under the carb which has helped and I put a 160 hi flo milidon thermostat in to help keep the engine temps down. It still run's around 175 degrees to 180 which is fine for a non fuel injected engine. Since the temp's have been down a bit from the 90's and in the mid to low 80's here the hard starting has pretty much went away. You can check out the cool carb technology's website and see how it works and the video that show's the temp's with a temp gun. It's not a cure all but it does help!!

[68charger440]

I did look at the cool technology stuff. Ron suggested it also, but I went ahead and ordered the bypass regulator because I have had to sit on the side of the road a couple of times for an hour while it cooled off and I just want this fixed with the most sure fire solution as possible.  I think the constant circulation will do it.  I saw some interesting DIY stuff on converting a dead head regulator to a bypass one with a replacable jet using the one I pictured above, but Ifigured I am tired of fooling with this.

[68charger440]

My bypass regulator came in and now I need to figure out where to put it.  CDR said to put it as close to the carb as possible.  With that in mind, does anyone have any pics of a setup where it is close to the carb, and looks clean also?
Thx

[cdr]

this is mine, i unwrapped the regulator for the pictures it aint purrddyy 

[68charger440]

Thanks... did you have to use that wrap to keep it from boiling too?

[cdr]

Thanks... did you have to use that wrap to keep it from boiling too?

no it did fine without it, but i am into overkill !!!! it gets very hot down here, did not want to take ANY chances of leaning out this engine I have way to much money in it to chance it. this is also my only car, so it gets driven!!!

[68charger440]

Wow! That's a beast of a daily driver.

[cdr]

also when you get this all on the car most of your afr readings will probably change. 

[68charger440]

Thats all I need, I just got it dialed in. 

[firefighter3931]

Thats all I need, I just got it dialed in. 

No worries Jim....you're a pro at rejetting that carb by now ! 

As for the regulator location ; You could mount it on the firewall just behind the carb and reverse the fuel inlet line to have it face backwards towards the regulator. Then run the return line down along the firewall to the frame rail where the return steel line will be plumbed. I'd insulate all of it with that DEI conduit to keep the fuel nice and cool. I believe you can purchase the DEI stuff in 20ft lengths 

Personally, I'm not a fan of mounting the regulator on the engine. Heat and vibration can cause erratic fuel pressure and aeration. I have mine mounted on the inner fender about 6 inches forward of the firewall with a supply line running to each bowl of the carb.


Ron

[68charger440]

I was considering other locations because the plumbing I was doing up front was looking kinda funky.  At least with the summer fading away soon, the vapor locking will probably not rear its ugly head until next spring even if I don't get it fixed with these mods.  I was hoping to have the car stable enough for some longer cruises, but until this vaporlock is fixed I have to stay close to home.  I'm jealous of my brother, he has a bone stock 69 4speed Charger that he hasn't had to do anything but general maintenance to for decades, and he can jump in it and drive it cross country with no worries. 
At least mine is faster until it vapor locks.

[68charger440]

The instructions on the bypass regulator says that you can install it with one side being the feed line from the tank, the other side being the output to the carb, and the bottom being the return line to the tank.  My questions are:
1. Does it matter which side the jet is on?
2. Wouldn't it make more sense to have the side with the jet as the return line to the tank since the jet restricts the flow? It seems like you would want the free flow going straight through to the carb and the jetted port only acting to keep the excess flow going back to the tank.  What am I missing?

[cdr]

i put the jet on the supply side ,   FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS  THEY MADE THE REGULATOR ,THEY KNOW HOW IT WORKS  LMBO

if you look at my picture the black line is the return to the tank.

[68charger440]

Yup, I was going to do it their way. I was just trying to figure out why for my own understanding.

[cdr]

 

[68charger440]

also when you get this all on the car most of your afr readings will probably change. 

My afr readings did change.  Why is that?

[cdr]

less boiling fuel in the fuel bowls, i had to reset my float level also.