Anyone using offset upper control bushings ?

[Highbanked Hauler]

 If so how much  + caster could you get ?

[Mike DC]

 
In the stock stamped-steel upper arms?  Probably as much caster as you can get before you start losing decent camber.



 

[Highbanked Hauler]

 
In the stock stamped-steel upper arms?  Probably as much caster as you can get before you start losing decent camber.



 

Stamped steel arms with factory bushings got 3/4 degree caster on the left and 1.25 on the right with  0 camber and .25 toe.  I am putting offsets in it and would like to get + 2-3 degrees. Next thing would be tubular uppers at $ 350..

[Kern Dog]

I have stock UCAs, stock LCAs, stock strut rods....BUT the Moog K7103 bushings allowed me to get just a smidge over 4 degrees of caster with 3/4 of a degree of NEG camber. Forget the aftermarket UCAs if all you need is 5 degrees. My car has never been wrecked, so maybe that is why I was able to get so much. I'd expect that a damaged, twisted or UNparallel set of frame rails wouldn't allow that.

[Kern Dog]

mm

[Kern Dog]

mm

[HPP]

There are a few variables with assembly tolerance, ride height, and component condition that will dictate the final number achievable.  3* should be easy. Some can get upwards of 6-7*. A bodies seem to be able to get more caster than B bodies for some reason.

[Mike DC]

A bodies seem to be able to get more caster than B bodies for some reason.

Maybe it's because the A-body has smaller metal parts combined with the same thickness bushings?  So the bushings would be functionally a bit larger than the B/E-bodies, in proportion to the metal parts.  More room for adjustment.


   

[Highbanked Hauler]

I have stock UCAs, stock LCAs, stock strut rods....BUT the Moog K7103 bushings allowed me to get just a smidge over 4 degrees of caster with 3/4 of a degree of NEG camber. Forget the aftermarket UCAs if all you need is 5 degrees. My car has never been wrecked, so maybe that is why I was able to get so much. I'd expect that a damaged, twisted or UNparallel set of frame rails wouldn't allow that.

    Thanks,   Great looking 70 there man !!! In a perfect world I'd like 6 or 7 degrees caster but 3 or 4 is tolerable compared to what it was after the rebuild which is what I posted. This time I will go with a little negative camber also. I have 2in. dropped spindles going in so I'll see what I get.

[Kern Dog]

Cool, man. Thanks for the kind words and good luck with the car!   

[myk]

I got 6 degrees of caster with my Hotchkis uppers but was it worth the $800?  To me maybe, to most definitely not.

Like I've said before, sway bars and shocks made the largest improvement in suspension performance, and I still had the stock caster and camber settings.  In retrospect I probably would've been alright with just the shock and sway bar upgrades.  Well, maybe the t-bars too...

[Highbanked Hauler]

I got 6 degrees of caster with my Hotchkis uppers but was it worth the $800?  To me maybe, to most definitely not.

Like I've said before, sway bars and shocks made the largest improvement in suspension performance, and I still had the stock caster and camber settings.  In retrospect I probably would've been alright with just the shock and sway bar upgrades.  Well, maybe the t-bars too...

    HAHA,its a never ending story ain't it ?

[myk]

Tell me about it.  Now I'm looking at Baer's T4 brake kit...$$$$$$

[bill440rt]

Good timing with this thread.

I have a set of upper control arms that I am swapping in my '68 this weekend, with the offset bushings installed.

The rest of the suspension is stock too, so I did not feel it was necessary to spring for tubular upper control arms.
I have an appointment for a wheel alignment next week, so I'll keep posted how it goes!  

[Dino]

I'd say this is great timing!  I need all new rubber everything for the front suspension and steering.  I think I'll just get Moog everything, even thinking I should just buy new upper and lower ball joibts as well.   

[oldcarnut]

I know it posted before somewhere but while its here,  what is the desired alignment setup to get with modern tires to tell the shop to shoot for instead of the OEM specs?

[myk]

You can use my settings:

+6* caster

-1* camber

-1/16" toe in

The amount of caster you get will depend on your setup.  I would ask for as much as they can dial in.  Minus half a degree of camber is adequate; I'm in the extreme side...

[oldcarnut]

I wish now I had put in the offsets. I went back everything stock but beefier, heavier bars, and box welded the arms for the flexing.  Just haven't had the car put back together enough to drive and get it all aligned up.  So I can use these specs and tell them to shoot for as close as possible.  Thanks 

[HPP]

If your shop has new guys who don't know how to override the computer, ask for '06 Mustang GT specs.

[Highbanked Hauler]

You can use my settings:

+6* caster

-1* camber

-1/16" toe in

The amount of caster you get will depend on your setup.  I would ask for as much as they can dial in.  Minus half a degree of camber is adequate; I'm in the extreme side...

I spent some of my kids inheritance and got a set of Firm Feel 2 in. dropped spindles and with the offset bushings in the upper control arms  I am hoping  to get a least +3 caster  .5-1.0 neg. camber and 1/8 on the toe .   

[71 SE3834V]

If I install the offset bushings to get the most positive camber increase would I get anywhere close to a normal camber judging by the following pic?
I've had a couple of shops look at this (and Dino ) and we can't figure out why so much negative camber. Might have to start my own thread on this.
Oh, it has all new bushings and ball joints. Adjustment all the way out.

[HPP]

Somebody put A body lower arms in it? A body lower arms are longer by 3/8" compared to B body arms, IIRC.

[71 SE3834V]

Somebody put A body lower arms in it? A body lower arms are longer by 3/8" compared to B body arms, IIRC.

Would you happen to have a measurement or part # for the b body LCA? Are '69's & '71's the same? I'll get my buddy Dino to measure his while his are out.  
As far as I can tell in the 4 yrs of owning this car everything is original. It sat for some 20 yrs and not much done to it. Maybe somebody hit a pothole, bent the arm and it was replaced.   I'll post up the measurement question in a new thread.

[Kern Dog]

B body LCAs have a consistent curve along the bottom edge. A body arms have curves on each end with a flat spot in the center.

[71 SE3834V]

Ok, thanks. I'm gonna post up a pic in a new thread so I don't hijack this thread any further.