Headers for a 318 to 440 conversion - 3rd gen

[C.duck]

I'm currently enjoying the almost too much fun 318 to 440 engine swap in my '73 charger. I ordered the Schumacher kit and have done most of the dirty work due to helpful threads on here. However, I am at a bit of a dead end when it comes to headers and their clearance. Most of the threads already made don't address this either. If anyone has done this, or has any recommendations I would really appreciate it. A list or links of headers that are known to fit would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
C

[myk]

I would just go to the manufacturers websites, like TTi and Doug's, and see if they offer any models for your car.  You could also try Jegs and Summit to see if they offer anything for your specific year and with the 440.  Honestly though, I wouldn't be looking too far from Dougs and TTi; they've got the best reputation for fit and finish, however keep in mind that no two Mopars are the same and no fitment is ever guaranteed, even on cars with identical setups.  That's probably why few threads here have addressed fitment and clearance: it's a gamble with every car, somewhat.

BTW I just ordered Dougs headers for my 440; part #D 452 with ceramic coating.  Wish me luck on the fitment...

[C.duck]

Unfortunately I don't think its quite that simple in my case. 73 & 74 chargers had different k-frames for the big block and small block cars. It seems that converting a small block to a big block causes clearance issues with the inner fender walls. I believe TTI may have some that will work, but I am uncertain. Nonetheless, congrats on your headers and best of luck getting them in!!

[RallyeMike]

The clearance issues are not with the inner fenders - the inner fenders between big block and small blocks are the same except for the access cutouts, which are very large on a big block car.  The clearance issues will be with the torsion bars and power steering (assuming you have PS).

I can't tell you what does work, but I can tell you what does NOT work: Hooker Competition headers. I did this exact same conversion on a 73 and spent an entire day heating, beating, and fitting the pipes.

[myk]

Hi-PO manifolds it is then, assuming there was such a thing...

[C.duck]

Appreciate the feedback, I read your article on the one you did Mike, good to know on the Hooker comps! I am considering trying either TTI's or the Schumacher Tri-Ys. Did you drop the engine in with the headers already attached or did you put them on after? And my 440 is a 1967 HP, I do have the HP manifolds still, but the 440 is beefed up a bit and I would prefer to use headers. Worst case scenario I have a back up plan I suppose.

[71charger_fan]

Since you were already dealing with Schumacher, did you consider their tri-y headers?

[RallyeMike]

Appreciate the feedback, I read your article on the one you did Mike, good to know on the Hooker comps! I am considering trying either TTI's or the Schumacher Tri-Ys. Did you drop the engine in with the headers already attached or did you put them on after? And my 440 is a 1967 HP, I do have the HP manifolds still, but the 440 is beefed up a bit and I would prefer to use headers. Worst case scenario I have a back up plan I suppose.

You cannot drop the engine in with headers installed. There is way too much interference. My opinion is that the best way to install headers on this car is to set them in the engine bay and drop the engine in on top of them. Hold the headers in place with a little rope or wire if you don't have help. If you are spending bucks on coated headers, throw some towels over the inner fender to prevent scratches, and lay the headers on top of them.

You can do the install by lifting and tilting the engine, it's possible but very tight. It's hard not to scratch stuff this way. I imagine the tri-Y's would be a little easier but I've never used them.

Other tips:

1) When swapping to headers on a big block car, it is best to eliminate the exhaust manifold studs and use bolts for the headers. You'll need to use a good teflon or RTV sealant on the bolts because they intercept big block head water jackets. You need the extra clearance of not having to work the headers around the studs and it makes future maintenance much easier.

2) Swap to a good mini-starter. Install it at the same time you are dropping the engine and drivers side header in. The starter is an obstacle if you have it bolted to the engine at installation, and impossible to install after the headers and engine are bolted in. Starter removal and replacement become a major chore with headers, so a good starter and a small one to boot is a good plan.

3) Don't store gasoline in your garage   

[flyinlow]

I have a '73 that went from 318 to a 440 with Schumaker mounts. Used Hooker comps at first then Hedman elite's  Both required minor clearencing. I have Eddy angle plug heads which was most of the problem. Mini starter worked with both sets. The Hookers touch the left T bar at idle in gear. The Hedmans #3 and #5 had to be clearenced for the PS. box.

I would love to try a set of Schumaker Try -Y headers. They look like less aggravation , lots of ground clearence and you can pull the starter with the headers in place.

[C.duck]

I'll be calling Mike up at Schumacher tomorrow just to get one more opinion before I drop 1k. Most likely going to be trying their Tri-ys. After its all said and done I will post pics and comment on any obstacles. Thanks again for all the feedback. Definitely made this a much easier process, as fun as trial and error can be

[randy73]

I think it helps if you get rid of the rag nut on the steering column and replace it w/Flaming river piece. This will give another inch or so of clearance.

[flyinlow]

I think it helps if you get rid of the rag nut on the steering column and replace it w/Flaming river piece. This will give another inch or so of clearance.

I had to get rid of the rag joint with the Hedmans, it cleared the Hooker comps.

[C.duck]

Just a quick revisit, the tri-y's worked perfectly. It was still a tight fit on the drivers side, but it did in fact work without any modifications. If anyone does this engine swap and goes with headers I highly recommend these.

[flyinlow]

 

Thanks for the review.  Any pics?