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Garage & Driveway Coatings

Started by 69bronzeT5, August 18, 2015, 01:45:14 AM

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69bronzeT5

Hey all-
Just purchased my first house- it's 100% brand new so all the concrete is unsealed and bare. I want to put some type of coating in the garage first. I was wondering what everyone here has used on their garage floors? Looking for something that is resistant to staining and won't peel and fall apart within a year. I was looking at this stuff on Home Depot's website- any thoughts?

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/1-part-epoxy-acrylic-concrete-garage-floor-paint-slate-gray-379l/938962





Same deal with the driveway. It's complete bare unsealed concrete. I'd like to put some type of protective stain resistant coating on it. All the driveways in the area are paved with the exact same concrete so I'd like to try and keep it's natural shade, does anywhere sell a clear coat type paint coating that will seal the concrete up without changing the shade/colour of it? I was looking at this product...

http://www.rona.ca/en/paver-protector---paver-protective-sealant




Thanks! :cheers:
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http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
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1970Moparmann

I'm interested in seeing some responses here myself.   

Prep is the #1 biggest aspect.  You have new, which is awesome.   But, I personally won't waste my time with any Behr product any more.  I've tried many different things by Behr, and nothing worked as planned.   There is much better products in the market.
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PlainfieldCharger

I would look into how long you need to let the new concrete set before you seal it. I thought I read somewhere it needs to setup for 90 days before you seal it :Twocents:

Ghoste

Add my opinion on the prep comment too.  I think many of the coatings could possibly be the same but floor prep will make the biggest difference.

Mopar4me

I used the 1 part Epoxy from Home Depot  and would not recommend it. I did apply it about 8 years ago (should have re-done it about 2 years ago)and it held up nice for the most part but had some problems. it's not as resistant to chemicals as they claim. Brake fluid would make it peel up, Gas would do the same if you didn't wipe it up promptly. But the biggest problem I had was from the road salt and the de-icing chemicals made it peel really bad where the vehicles were parked. I've switched to Rock-Solid's floor coating about 5 month's ago so far it's been pretty impressive brake fluid and gas had no effect on it now we'll see how it holds up to winter.  Like others have said the prep is the most important part.

68X426


The Behr folks say to wait 30 days.  More info from their site:

Where to Use

Interior or Exterior surfaces such as: Porous Concrete, Masonry, Stone and Brick. Ideal for horizontal surfaces such as: Garage Floors, Driveways, Basements and Porches.DO NOT use on vertical surfaces or areas subject to hydrostatic pressure. NOT for industrial use. DO NOT use on areas subject to fork-lifts.

Usage Summary

Rough Surface
300-400 Sq. Ft
Smooth Surface
400-500 Sq. Ft.

1 HR
Dry To Touch
4-6 HR
Recoat Time

Soap & Water
Clean-Up

Protect
from Freezing

Preparation

New and Uncoated Concrete or Masonry Surfaces:
•New concrete must cure for a minimum of 30 days.
•For proper penetration and adhesion of topcoat, use a product such as BEHR PREMIUM CONCRETE & MASONRY CLEANER & ETCHER NO. 991 to clean and etch the surface. Follow all label instructions.
•Apply a product such as BEHR PREMIUM CONCRETE & MASONRY BONDING PRIMER NO. 880 to increase adhesion of topcoat to the surface. Follow all label instructions.

Painted, Stained or Sealed Concrete:
•Option 1- To completely strip the entire surface, use a product such as BEHR PREMIUM Concrete & Masonry Paint Striper NO. 992. Follow all label instructions.
•Option 2- To recoat over an existing coating, remove any loose or peeling paint and scuff sand the surface.
•Use a product such as BEHR PREMIUM CONCRETE & MASONRY DEGREASER & CLEANER NO. 990 to clean previously coated surfaces in sound condition.
•Use a product such as BEHR PREMIUM CONCRETE & MASONRY CLEANER & ETCHER NO. 991 to clean and etch any bare concrete area. Follow all label instructions.
•Spot prime all bare concrete areas with a product such as BEHR PREMIUM CONCRETE & MASONRY BONDING PRIMER NO. 880 to increase adhesion of topcoat to the surface. Follow all label instructions.

Application
•DO NOT THIN. Intermix all cans of same product to ensure color uniformity. Stir before applying. Use product when air and surface temperatures are between 50-90°F (10-32°C).
•Apply a thin, even coat using a 3/8" nap roller cover, pad applicator or a nylon/polyester brush.
•Allow first coat to dry before deciding if a second coat is necessary. For uniformity apply a second coat (in a criss-cross direction).
•DO NOT APPLY MORE THAN TWO COATS. An annual touch-up may be required in areas subject to tire traffic.

Dry Time
•Longer dry time required in cooler temperatures and in higher humidity.
•The floor may be subjected to light foot traffic after 24 hours. Allow 72 hours before subjecting surface to heavy foot traffic or repositioning furniture.
•Allow 7 days before subjecting to automotive tires. Premature heavy traffic will cause paint failure requiring spot recoating.
•If necessary, corrugated cardboard may be used underneath automobile tires after 72 hours.
•Wait at least 30 days before rinsing or cleaning. Use a mild detergent as needed.
•Abrasive cleaners and pressure-washers should be used carefully to avoid premature paint failure.

Disposal
•Properly dispose of all soiled rags. To recycle or properly dispose of product in your community, contact your household refuse collection service.




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Just 6T9 CHGR

Garage floor..... Race Deck  :Twocents:

PS--congrats on the house! :cheers:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


RallyeMike

If you plan on welding and grinding in the garage, you are better off with plain concrete with just a sealer on it. Otherwise don't skimp and use the cheap box store stuff. Sherwin-Williams has a large selection at reasonable prices.

For outdoor clear concrete sealer, try a construction supply place where you can by 5 gallon buckets.

Congrats on the house.
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69bronzeT5

Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on August 18, 2015, 07:21:01 AM
I would look into how long you need to let the new concrete set before you seal it. I thought I read somewhere it needs to setup for 90 days before you seal it :Twocents:

The house is brand new but it was a show home so it's atleast 5-6 months old now :cheers:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

69bronzeT5

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on August 18, 2015, 08:17:20 PM
Garage floor..... Race Deck  :Twocents:

PS--congrats on the house! :cheers:

Quote from: RallyeMike on August 18, 2015, 09:16:06 PM
If you plan on welding and grinding in the garage, you are better off with plain concrete with just a sealer on it. Otherwise don't skimp and use the cheap box store stuff. Sherwin-Williams has a large selection at reasonable prices.

For outdoor clear concrete sealer, try a construction supply place where you can by 5 gallon buckets.

Congrats on the house.


Thanks guys! :cheers:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

bill440rt

Did mine with Rustoleum's 2-part garage floor epoxy about 10 years ago. This was over an oil stained floor I spent a week scrubbing, acid etch, etc.
10 years later, it needs to be done again. Peeling/flaking in spots (and not where I cleaned), not very chemical resistant, etc.
Meanwhile at my parent's house their floor is done with Griot's Garage floor paint, still holding strong about 20 years. But it gets slippery when wet. I suppose adding some color flakes to it would help.

Good luck and congrats on the house! :cheers:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

teddy1500

 I am a painter, I have used several products, from the rustoleum epoxy paint...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-EpoxyShield-2-gal-Gray-2-Part-High-Gloss-Epoxy-Garage-Floor-Coating-Kit-251870/100671422 , to my favorite product, from U Coat it   http://www.ucoatit.com/systems/ucoat-with-uflek-af/ This stuff is the absolute bomb. It will hold up well in a Michigan climate, and do just as well in a South Carolina Climate. But, expect it to be a bit pricey. For the average homeowner, its a very forgiving product, so is the rustoleum epoxy. They are both easy, the worst part is the Muratic Acid wash.
The one thing that you should be aware of, the epoxy products offer very little UV protection, and day in day out direct sunlight (like that little, small strip of concrete from the garage door, to the end of the slab outside) will fail first, it will dull down. But stopping at the garage door looks bad.

green69rt

Do a search on "Garage Floor" and you'll probably get more info than you can absorb.