383 set up suggestions for new build

[spfury]

Building a 383 for the 66 Charger with a 383 4bbl Automatic in it.   The car will be street driven with 355 sure grip, probably TTI headers, 10:1 rated pistons.  What is a good cam for this set up, probably go with a 69 4bbl intake from a RR that I have.  Ive considered the Mopar Performance 440 grind cam (magnum cam) but know there are some good choices out there, a little more performance is always good.  Does Lunati, comp or anyone else make a better street cam for this application?   Also, who makes a good torque converter and should I just go stock set up or a little stall?

Thanks.

[MoparMotel]

I did this cam in my 383 with a stock hp intake and exhaust manifolds and really like it.

Comp Cams # 21-306-4

UPC: 036584520214

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,500

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./224 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration: 270

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270

Advertised Duration: 270 int./270 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.470 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.470 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.470 int./0.470 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Camshaft Gear Attachment: 1-bolt

Computer-Controlled Compatible: No

Grind Number: CRB 270H-10

Valve Springs Required: Yes

Quantity: Sold individually.

Notes: Single-bolt camshaft.

In-Store Pickup: Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.

[MoparMotel]

Forgot to mention....I'm running a Holley 750 carb on it

[BSB67]

That is a very good cam for what you are doing.  Some will tell you that that cam is old school, and that you can get "modern" cams that are better.  That cam does has slightly softer ramps, but your valve train and lifters will keep up fine.

A friend of mine track tested about 5 different cams about that size in his stockish 440.  The CRB 270H-10 was the fastest and his favorite.

[spfury]

Thanks for the input on the Cam, any suggestions for a good torque converter.

[c00nhunterjoe]

With that setup, a stock converter will be just fine.

[spfury]

With that setup, a stock converter will be just fine.

Thank you.

[69wannabe]

I am a fan of the comp cam's myself. They do make an updated version as stated above with a more aggressive lobe design that work's and run's great too. The grind number is XE268 and is 224 duration @ 50 degrees on the intake with a 230 duration @ 50 degrees on the exhaust with 477 lift intake and 480 lift for the exhaust and is a great running and sounding cam and you can still run your stock converter with it. I ran the XE274 in my 383 several years back and I felt like it was a little bit too big in there but it did sound great and ran good but was a little soft off idle.
Just have to watch your lift if you are still running stock heads, the most lift you can do with the old cast iron head's is 510 I think unless you have the valve guides machined down. Not sure about this but seem's like I have heard this from several different people.

[BSB67]

That is a very good cam for what you are doing.  Some will tell you that that cam is old school, and that you can get "modern" cams that are better.  That cam does has slightly softer ramps, but your valve train and lifters will keep up fine.

A friend of mine track tested about 5 different cams about that size in his stockish 440.  The CRB 270H-10 was the fastest and his favorite.

And forgot to mention, he was on the brink of being in the 12s at 107 mph, with a 9.5:1, factory head, stock valve size motor with exhaust manifolds, 3.23 gears and a P225 70 street tire with that cam.

[spfury]

I am a fan of the comp cam's myself. They do make an updated version as stated above with a more aggressive lobe design that work's and run's great too. The grind number is XE268 and is 224 duration @ 50 degrees on the intake with a 230 duration @ 50 degrees on the exhaust with 477 lift intake and 480 lift for the exhaust and is a great running and sounding cam and you can still run your stock converter with it. I ran the XE274 in my 383 several years back and I felt like it was a little bit too big in there but it did sound great and ran good but was a little soft off idle.
Just have to watch your lift if you are still running stock heads, the most lift you can do with the old cast iron head's is 510 I think unless you have the valve guides machined down. Not sure about this but seem's like I have heard this from several different people.

Thanks for the suggestion,  I am running basically stock 906 RR heads, do you know if they would require modification?

[69wannabe]

As long as you keep your lift number's under 510 you should be fine.Like I said above I am not sure about this but maybe someone on here know's for sure. You will also want to upgrade your valve springs,retainer's and lock's to match the camshaft that you choose!! 

[spfury]

Anyone used the KB400-030 Keith black pistons in a 383?  Also looking at Sealed power 2315F flat tops. Good 3u3 pistons are hard to find.

[BSB67]

Anyone used the KB400-030 Keith black pistons in a 383?  Also looking at Sealed power 2315F flat tops. Good 3u3 pistons are hard to find.

What head?  If you are using a 906 head, there is no good piston.

IMO, your best bet is build it with the 2315, machine/gasket selection to achieve a 0.040" quench, and use the Edelbrock 84 cc head.  That will give you about 9.5:1 CR. Use the Stealth 80 cc head, 9.8:1 CR.

[spfury]

I have a fresh set of 516 heads that I can use. I think they are a little better for compression ratio than 906.  What are the stealth heads, not familiar.

[BSB67]

I have a fresh set of 516 heads that I can use. I think they are a little better for compression ratio than 906.  What are the stealth heads, not familiar.

One of a few suppliers offering inexpensive new aluminum heads that will probably be less expensive than rebuilding your 516s (correctly), and will be a performance boost.

The 516 heads would probably make your compression ratio too high if you go with quench.

[ACUDANUT]

The 906 heads were on pre smog motors. I never had a issue using them. 

[BSB67]

The 906 heads were on pre smog motors. I never had a issue using them. 

I don't know what you mean by "issue".  They will work.  There are just the worst possible option if you are trying to build a performance pump gas motor.

[ACUDANUT]

Chrysler used the 906 heads on their HP Blocks for years. 

[BSB67]

Chrysler used the 906 heads on their HP Blocks for years.  

Again, I don't know your point.

He wants extra performance.
He asked about pistons.
You cannot consider pistons without considering heads
There is no reasonable way to make even decent power with a 383/open chamber head/pump gas motor with available parts
The best you can do is a low compression version of the 383 hp, which frankly, is a turd.  A low compression version of a hp 383 in a 66 Charger, will be slower than my mini van.

Can you make some power with a 906 head on a 383, sure, it will cost more, and have less performance than what I described, or it won't run on pump gas.

If your motor is apart, and you're wanting performance, why would you choose to build a turd when for the same $ you could build something better, unless you are into 100% original?

[c00nhunterjoe]

I still dont understand if we are talking about buuldi g a 383 from scratch, then why are we wasting money on a 383 rotating assembly when you can purchase a stroker rotating assembly for less?

Furthermore, if you are rebuilding it, then you can no longer claim it as origonal anyway, so what does it matter what new internal parts you put in it?

[1974dodgecharger]

Anyone used the KB400-030 Keith black pistons in a 383?  Also looking at Sealed power 2315F flat tops. Good 3u3 pistons are hard to find.

I have KB pistons in mine the .030 version they are the hypertentitics stuff whatever that is....its weird.