stalling engine

[Hard Charger]

need help with a problem, my stock 383 has a stalling problem after about 30min. of driving.

disconnecting the vacuum advance helped a lot, but when the engine revs down for a turn or stop sign the engine cuts out. acts like its flooded. I put the pedal to the floor to clear the carb and it starts after turning the engine for about 10 seconds.

everything is new, factory engine not rebuilt, eddy AVS 650 carb. did not have this problem before restoration.

other than boiling gas not sure were to look.

[Back N Black]

If you disconnected the Vacuum advance you should adjust you timing. 

[68charger440]

I would take it out on a cool night and see if the stalling stops.  If it stops acting up then you may be able to narrow it down to a heat related problem.  I have had the fuel boiling problem before and rerouted the fuel line to fix it.  I also had a cheapo all in one ignition setup once that would act up and put out a really weak spark when it got hot, and then be fine when it cooled down. The older Dodge Durangos had big problems with the engine control module overheating.  Once it cooled off it would also be fine again.  I think your fuel boiling is a good first thing to eliminate.  You could try a cool can as a diagnostic tool to eliminate that.

[myk]

So it's flooding.  Float levels ok?

[ottawamerc]

Is it a new distributor too? if not may be the weights are sticking

Scott

[PlainfieldCharger]

If you disconnected the Vacuum advance you should adjust you timing. 

This is where i would start Sounds like she's running to advanded..

[68charger440]

While the float level, timing etc are easy enough things to check, I still have to wonder how those things could change after 1/2 hour of driving.   Thats  Why I am more inclined to look for a heat related issue.

[myk]

I'm trying to figure out how heat could flood your 'carb.

Or maybe your car is vapor locked and flooring the pedal is the only way to get the fuel flowing again?

[BSB67]

I'm trying to figure out how heat could flood your 'carb.

Or maybe your car is vapor locked and flooring the pedal is the only way to get the fuel flowing again?

What he said.

Sinking floats, bad needle/seat, and improper float level can cause flooding.  These do not normally occur intermittently.  Flooding is usually easily detected/confirmed.

[PlainfieldCharger]

When you disconected you vacuum advance you had to have lost rpm. This is why it could be stalling. If the car ran better with vacuum line disconected that is a hint at the timing... usually when you disconected the vacuum advance the engine losses rpm and wants to die. Yours ran better. I would look at the timing with correct idle rpm with the vacuum disconected and plugged. Then connect it again and tune carb idle accordingly. When the timing is to far advanced she runs hot out the manifolds and after time heats the engine compartment and the top side of the motor. Does it appear the your temp gauge is moving up slightly? It could be many things but this is the most easy to test since you mentioned the engine improve with the line off. 

[Hard Charger]

these are all valid points.
the ignition is a firecore, complete with coil, and distributor. I know the timing is not perfect.
the carb could be dirty, so I picked up a Gunk gallon can to take it apart and dunk it.

the engine ran perfect before the restoration and the only thing different is the new firecore products and addition of the electronic ignition. I do have the module mounted to the back of my intake. has there been problems with that?

[68charger440]

Rebuilding the carb is a lot of work just as a diagnostic test. A home made "cool can" is a quick and almost free way to try to eliminate fuel boiling as a problem. I don't think mounting the module to the intake is a good idea even if it is not the root cause of your problem.   Checking the timing is also a good free thing to look at before rebuilding carb.

[myk]

Isn't the module supposed to be mounted on the firewall, away from major heat sources?

[68charger440]

One other thing... if that ignition is an all in one, did you bypass the balast resister?

[Hard Charger]

did not get the all in one Firecore. wanted a stock look. has the ballast.


what is this "cool can".

[68charger440]

did not get the all in one Firecore. wanted a stock look. has the ballast.


what is this "cool can".

In the old days the "Cool can" was basically a can with coiled up fuel line inside it that you filled with ice.  It kept the fuel cool which helped performance and also helped to ward off vapor lock when racing.  It was just used primarily for hot rodders racing, but in this case it would help to diagnose whether or not overheated fuel is the problem.  You can use a cleaned out 1 gal paint can with 10 feet of rubber fuel line coiled up inside and then pack it with ice.  Then just temporarily insert it into your fuel lines.