73 charger, wires melting/melted

[Lewis]

Just to add most the wires in the photo are insulated now, those are before shots I haven't got any after shots I'll get those tomorrow for you!

[nascarxx29]

Thats bad start over or the wiring nightmare will never end,

[Lewis]

Okay I'm on it,  I've just added some photos of the car just realise you Have seen it!

[nascarxx29]

If the object was just to hear car run and make movable you could eliminate the rat nest you have and just run a few wires.In the meantime look a better harness

[nascarxx29]

Seen you pics car looks good power bulge hood buckets slapstick console air cond car.If the rest of is solid
and straight it deseserves better wiring

[Lewis]

Yeah that's all I wanted to do really, I knew I had to get a new harnes I was just trying to salvage what I could for the meantime so I could also find out what works and what doesn't to I could ship it over with the harnes an
D make the most of the import thanks yeah I'm really happy with it, it's also a rallye! Currently no air con as previous owner ripped it all out but was kind enough to leave it in the boot haha also cut air con wires in half rather than leave them! Yeah it's a 383 4 barrel Holley tuned up, 727 3 speed auto with roughly 80,000 on the clock but that doesn't really mean much now as its a different engine, originally 340magnum

[Lewis]

If your referring to the front wing as could be replace would it be the gap on top of it your talking about? It's because the bonnet is twisted left side of the bonnet goes down but right Sid just doesn't want to move which has resulted in it becoming twisted

[Pete in NH]

Wow, that wiring is a total mess. I agree with others that you will never be able to repair that wiring and have it be safe. You can see melted pins on the bulk head connectors. Honestly, I would rip it all out and start with new reproduction harnesses, both the engine and dash harnesses. I would also remove any and all wiring to the alternator until you can see if it is still a good alternator.

To just run the car, I would just wire a temporary starting circuit and just rewire the existing electronic ignition system. Both are relatively simple. I would just run it off the battery and recharge the battery with an external charger for now.

[Lewis]

Hello all, I have remove a lot of the wiring today as found a lot of it has loose ends, going to start again and buy a new on, any recommendations? Also the alternator wires were wired up as followed  thick red wire to negative on battery thin black wire to mysterious box on firewall then through grommet on firewall to bottom of accessory port on fuse block under cavity eight and another wire not sure about colour to no' 18 on bulkhead which is alternator on diagram, also I've uploaded a couple more photos, doe as any one know why I have 2 ballast is that correct I thought it was just one?

[nascarxx29]

Those loose crimp on terminal will cause resistance and heat up and melt plastic.

[nascarxx29]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=23315.0

[Lewis]

Thanks for the link that's more than helpful!! Yeah everything s wrong driving me crazy! 

[nascarxx29]

Your voltage regulator look like a pre 70 type. Used up till 1969.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161628222822?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D161628222822%2526targetid%253D124316419929%2526rpc%253D0.18%2526rpc_upld_id%253D52763%2526rlsatarget%253D%2526device%253Dt%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F161628222822%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526gclid%253DCNiE59KM8sYCFYsRHwodm-8D8g%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D872140425681

[Lewis]

Should I have a voltage regulated? On a built in regulator alternator? Also a 4 pin ballast and a 2 pin ballast? I thought it was one or the other not both correct me if I'm wrong still learning

[nascarxx29]

Your choice you can get a one wire alternator with built in voltage regulator. But stock set up was voltage regulator and 2 field alternator you should have the 4 connection ballast earlier years used 2

[Lewis]

Okay that makes sense, I don't have a proper voltage regulator I don't know what it is really it has one wire going in and one coming out to the fuse box, I gather they put the 2 pin ballast in with the engine because it's an older engine, I'm just trying to figure out how all the wires are wired up, is it possible
To have 2 ballast's then? Don't understand why you would have 2

[nascarxx29]

Old cars use 2 prong connections later years went to 4 as  electronic ignition came out late 72

[nascarxx29]

Hard to be sure in pictures but does the wiper
motor have a ballast attached earlier years did for the wiper motor

[Pete in NH]

If you're going to keep this car I strongly suggest you get a copy of the original Dodge Factory Service Manuals. They are often available on EBay in the original book form or as electronic copies on CD's .You're at the beginning of a long journey with your car and the manuals will help you understand its systems and answer many of your questions as you study the manuals.

I still have no idea of what some one was trying to do with the alternator the way you describe the wiring. If in the end you go back to the Chrysler alternator the correct regulator is the one listed in the EBay posting above in this thread.

[Lewis]

I'll follow the wiring on the second ballast! And yeah I have the manual all 1000+ pages of it, I just fine people on here explain the awnsers better to the questions the manual doesn't have! I'm going to need to start from scratch haha now I just want to see if the engine works then once I hear it I'll rip all the wires out and start again!

[ODZKing]

I agree, the service manual sometimes is ridiculously stupid.  At one time I simply wanted to know how to remove the tail lamp assembly. NOWHERE in there does it say you have to remove the bumper to get them off.  Simply says "remove from bumper", that's a big help.
Schematics are OK if you are fairly good at reading one, which I am not. Being colorblind and wires having faded over the years doesn't help either.
I found a very nice 73 dash and wire harness at Carlisle a couple years ago since the wiring under my dash is a mess as well. One of the key things to look for is if the connector is discolored in the way of looking burnt.  If it isn't, it will most likely be good.
This is a job I have been putting off as well, not looking forward to it.    

[Lewis]

Yeah that's the problem I'm having! That's great I'm from the UK so there's next to none shows or events round my area, just want to hear it hahah! So tomorrow I am going to wire up what I need just for the engine to work and disconnect/ remove everything else that I don't need for now or buts that are burnt and see what I can do, just a complete mess at the moment, plus cannot take dash out just doesn't what to budge all screws are out but still nothing! And steering wheel is seized on cannot get that off to haha

[Lewis]

I got it started!!!! Sounds amazing!

[Pete in NH]

Congratulations on the start up! 383's are great engines, I love mine in my 71.

You're going to need a steering wheel puller to get he wheel off. Are you using one to try to get the wheel off? I've never had one not come off with a puller.

[Dino]

Awesome!   

383's are great, I loved the one in my '68.  A very strong and reliable engine.  Gas mileage sucks though... 

Yep you definitely need a puller to get the steering wheel off, don't waste your time banging on the back of it, it only ends up hurting!   

They're around $15-20 around here and come with a few sizes of bolts to fit most wheels.  Of course, it may be a bit harder to find over there but google its construction, it's easy to rig one up if needed.