Frame twist...help

[Dreamcar]

After leveling off four jack stands (to compensate for my garage floor) and placing them at four points under the unibody that are supposed to be at an equal distance to the floor, I've noticed that the right front frame rail is about 1/8th of an inch higher off the ground than the left front frame rail. This was measured at the very front of the car.

Being a 69 Charger, I know the factory QC was a little less perfect back then. Is 1/8th of an inch something I should worry about??

[68RT440]

1/8" isn't that far off. QC was in fact pretty lenient back then. I would make sure that your body panels line up correctly and go from there. Usually there is enough slop in holes and use of shims to get the panels where they need to be...

[Baldwinvette77]

some cars back then had a 1/4 tolerance, so 1/8 is perfect by 1960's spec  . even today, a 1/8" is allowed

[NHCharger]

On a Friday afternoon on the assembly line, an 1/8" would be called perfect.

[Dreamcar]

Thanks guys. I guess I was also worried about being able to align the car (suspension wise).

[b5blue]

  I'm trying to adjust my chassis also. The bias in the rear from the stagger of MOPAR HD leaf springs has the passenger side sit higher in the rear. A problem that increases when I park my rear in the drivers seat!  I'm starting to think the 8 years my car was drag raced twisted the uni-body from hard launches. (I was told the car was breaking into the 12's back then.)
I bought a DIY alignment tool and have been mapping out what effects caster/camber and how much settings change through their range of motion. Keep in mind your car will "give a bit" as you'll always be in the seat driving and road slope will always be lower to the pass. side. (In the real world the car will rarely see a flat/level surface.) Unless the car if nearly fully loaded with engine/tranny in place and sitting on all four tires (Don't forget the drive train isn't truly dead centered.) you'll not really know how it "sits on/in suspension" to face the road. I bought lowering blocks to see if I can correct my rear bias a bit but I've been to busy to play around lately. I also think 1/8" is remarkably close all things considered. (I don't have starting point #'s to consider.)     

[Ghoste]

Get a big mutha high torque engine in there with some traction and after enough hard launches you can twist the other side into the same place. 

[Dreamcar]

Get a big mutha high torque engine in there with some traction and after enough hard launches you can twist the other side into the same place. 

Since I have it down to basically a shell, I was thinking more along the lines of a big mutha hammer and torch, but you're idea is good too 

[Mytur Binsdirti]

On a Friday afternoon on the assembly line, an 1/8" would be called perfect.

Knowing how bad these cars were put together, I'd say that on any day, 1/8" would be called perfect.

[myk]

Those of us with cars on the road, I wonder how far off our frames are...

[Charger-Bodie]

If it were on a frame bench I'd do something with it , but you will still need to refit all your sheet metal . If it all fits good now , id leave sleeping dogs lie.

[green69rt]

Just checked the Body and frame section of the FSM.  It gives all the measurements and then the Body Dimensions section says "dimensions should agree within 1/4 inch"  so they where pretty loose.  I think it would be just as important that the measurements on one side match the other side, etc.

Kind of funny that they specify some of the measurements down to 1/16"   

[Dreamcar]

Just checked the Body and frame section of the FSM.  It gives all the measurements and then the Body Dimensions section says "dimensions should agree within 1/4 inch"  so they where pretty loose.  I think it would be just as important that the measurements on one side match the other side, etc.

Kind of funny that they specify some of the measurements down to 1/16"   

The FSM allows for a 1/4 inch...I don't feel so bad now

[Baldwinvette77]

Just checked the Body and frame section of the FSM.  It gives all the measurements and then the Body Dimensions section says "dimensions should agree within 1/4 inch"  so they where pretty loose.  I think it would be just as important that the measurements on one side match the other side, etc.

Kind of funny that they specify some of the measurements down to 1/16"   

The FSM allows for a 1/4 inch...I don't feel so bad now

Oh cool, i was actually right 

[b5blue]

You know we all want to see pics right? 

[bakerhillpins]

You know we all want to see pics right? 

Ok here ya go... not all that exciting but to each his own.   

[b5blue]

Exciting....what would an 1/8th" look like?   

[cbrestorations]

unless its on a frame jig or a perfectly level floor, i woouldnt go off you measurement from the garage floor. stick a 6 foot straight edge across the floor you will probly see an 1/8" gap in places

[HPP]

As pointed out .125 is within factory acceptance levels. It certainly can be improved on if you wish. If you are doing chassis work on it and will be welding up seams or adding sub-frame connectors, you can load the frame to bend it into the position you want, then weld it up. But sometimes putting heat into it makes it move in other locations as well. You also can take it to a frame shop and have it pulled into position if you are really concerned about it. If its all apart, now would be the time to do it before you start setting panel gaps.

  I'm trying to adjust my chassis also. The bias in the rear from the stagger of MOPAR HD leaf springs has the passenger side sit higher in the rear. A problem that increases when I park my rear in the drivers seat!   

The solution for this is simple. Just turn up the driver side t-bar adjuster a skosh until things level out.

[Dreamcar]

I found my problem...the left rear frame rail got damaged at the very back. Turns out the other end of that same frame rail (near the center of the car) moved a little too when the damage at the back occurred. Since one of my jack stands was on that rail, it was skewing everything.