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adding a 1 wire alternator to a 69

Started by Lord Warlock, November 05, 2015, 06:21:10 PM

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Lord Warlock

I recently ordered a chromed 1 wire alternator (100amp) from tuff stuff on Summit Racings site.  It arrived, looks really nice and after some searching for bolts that will fit, got it installed in the car.  One wire is currently connected, the alternator output to Battery terminal, no field wires are attached.  Also since this alternator is internally regulated, I have the voltage regulator removed from the firewall. 

Have a little confusion, the old regulator wires, am I supposed to connect the two wires so the circuit is whole, or just tape them back to the harness unattached?

Also, have been reading threads, and they recommend running a heavier wire from the alternator output directly to the starter relay, If this is correct, should I connect it to the same connector on the starter relay that has a red wire to the battery itself? 

What would be a good place to run a hot wire to the electric choke? would one of the wires from the regulator work? which one?

Some other wires have a question about, the washer tank wire, the only wire that looks like it fits there is a brown wire and it is a single spade connector female plug, the electric pump on the washer tank has a two wire connector (t shaped), do I have the wrong style water pump in the reservoir? There is a plug coming off of the heater motor, where does it connect to?  Isn't the AC and heater wires a different plug on the firewall?  I'd like to hook up the heater. 

Appreciate the assistance, I'm still searching and reading.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Pete in NH

Hi,

Yes, you should run a heavier wire from the alternator output to the battery stud on the starter relay. A #6 gauge wire would be about right. You also want to protect this new wire with a fusible link or fuse, I would prefer a 100 amp fuse.

Also, look over the installation instructions for your new alternator. I suspect there will be a control wire to let the internal regulator know when the ignition switch is in the run position. Other wise if the regulator is powered up all the time it will drain the battery down in a few days. A good place to connect this control wire would be the  blue wire that used to go to the voltage regulator. You can also connect the electric choke wire to this point. Better yet would be to use a relay. Connect the blue voltage regulator wire to one side of the relay coil and ground the other side of the relay coil. Connect the common arm of the relay to battery voltage through a 20 amp fuse and the normally open side of the relay to the electric choke and alternator control wire. The relay will take some of the load off the ignition switch. You can leave the old green voltage regulator wire disconnected and taped back out of the way.

You will have bypassed the ammeter with this hook up and you should trace the old alternator output wire back to the bulk head connector and clip it off at the connector pin. I would then connect to two wires on the back of the ammeter together so the rest of the car has power.

Lord Warlock

Instructions on the new part were pretty Spartan, which is why I had to ask here just to be sure before I hook up the battery, trying not to melt this harness, but also don't want to fry gauges so will run the one wire to the starter relay. 

Not seeing a control wire on the back of the alternator, will look again tomorrow. Maybe its hiding. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.