News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Lowered Chargers

Started by WhiteOnGreen, June 18, 2015, 03:11:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

cbrestorations

slam it down for lower center of gravity, but redesign the suspension so the roll center is atleast close to frame height. 1" longer ball joint on the lower control arm will help. ive built a new k frame with 15" lower control arms when stock is 12.5" and 1" longer lower ball joints. so this way the lowers sit more level when dropped to 4" frame height. 3" for autocross

375instroke

Quote from: cbrestorations on June 25, 2015, 11:00:11 AM
slam it down for lower center of gravity, but redesign the suspension so the roll center is atleast close to frame height. 1" longer ball joint on the lower control arm will help. ive built a new k frame with 15" lower control arms when stock is 12.5" and 1" longer lower ball joints. so this way the lowers sit more level when dropped to 4" frame height. 3" for autocross

Are there longer lower ball joints for '69 B-Bodies?  They make them in the screw in style, but I haven't seen them with the built in steering knuckle.  Are they custom made?

cbrestorations

no, not for the factory style, have to run aftermarket lowers and spindles

Kern Dog

Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 22, 2015, 01:29:56 PM
Lower the front , raise the rear and your good to go.  :2thumbs:

This isn't the 70s anymore, man.
Nobody in any car with a 3 inch rake and N-50-15s is going to outhandle a properly set up Charger with a few well chosen suspension and tire upgrades.

cbrestorations

lol, so much rake u need a back up camera to see behind you

HPP

Quote from: 375instroke on June 26, 2015, 01:51:15 AM
Are there longer lower ball joints for '69 B-Bodies?  They make them in the screw in style, but I haven't seen them with the built in steering knuckle.  Are they custom made?

Not directly. The closest you could come to a factory style install for custom lower ball joints would be swap to 72-79 B body lower control arms that use a screw in style ball joint. However, these arms are also longer and have different strut rods that will rquire some custom work and special offset rims to all fit properly.


ACUDANUT

Quote from: Kern Dog on June 26, 2015, 10:23:46 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 22, 2015, 01:29:56 PM
Lower the front , raise the rear and your good to go.  :2thumbs:

This isn't the 70s anymore, man.
Nobody in any car with a 3 inch rake and N-50-15s is going to outhandle a properly set up Charger with a few well chosen suspension and tire upgrades.

I guess I am old school. Always will be.  :2thumbs:

HPP

Mopar Chassis manuals typically recommended a 2-3* nose down rake for best high speed performance

Kern Dog

Maybe for a top end run at the Bonneville Salt Flats. Handling has been a tough sell to the Mopar faithful. A 3" rake is absolutely horrible for an autocross or road race car.

Old school builds are cool. I like a classic look on other peoples cars. I just prefer to turn corners fast in mine.

dual fours

Quote from: HPP on June 27, 2015, 10:13:25 AM
Mopar Chassis manuals typically recommended a 2-3* nose down rake for best high speed performance
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 27, 2015, 09:41:44 AM
Quote from: Kern Dog on June 26, 2015, 10:23:46 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 22, 2015, 01:29:56 PM
Lower the front , raise the rear and your good to go.  :2thumbs:

This isn't the 70s anymore, man.
Nobody in any car with a 3 inch rake and N-50-15s is going to outhandle a properly set up Charger with a few well chosen suspension and tire upgrades.

I guess I am old school. Always will be.  :2thumbs:
Guess we went to the same ole school :cheers:
1970 Dodge Charger SE, 383 Magnum, dual fours, Winter's shifter and racing transmission.

26 END
J25 L31 M21 M31 N85 R22
VX1 AO1 A31 A47 C16 C55
FK5 CRXA TX9 A15
E63 D32 XP29 NOG

ACUDANUT


HPP

Quote from: Kern Dog on June 27, 2015, 09:41:56 PM
Maybe for a top end run at the Bonneville Salt Flats. Handling has been a tough sell to the Mopar faithful. A 3" rake is absolutely horrible for an autocross or road race car.

3* not 3". A 3* rake is about maybe a 1" difference front to rear.  This is recommend because of the asymetrical leaf spring design of a mopar and the resultant anti-squat vectors they achieve. The slight rake allows a level attidue under accelleration.

375instroke

Quote from: HPP on June 27, 2015, 10:13:25 AM
Mopar Chassis manuals typically recommended a 2-3* nose down rake for best high speed performance

I've only seen this referred to as the pinion angle, not the angle of the entire car to the ground.

HPP

It is in both the Chassis Manual, under Front Suspension,  and the Oval Track Modifications manual, under Chassis and Body. Measurements to be taken at the pinch weld area of the door sill, right behind the front tire to right in front of the rear tire, on level ground.

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: HPP on June 27, 2015, 10:13:25 AM
Mopar Chassis manuals typically recommended a 2-3* nose down rake for best high speed performance

HUH, thanks for the info....might need to crank down my torsion bars now.......I think im somewhat leveled, but the 28inch diater wheels back there rake it up an ince or so...

HPP

A 26" front and 28" rear tire arrangement would accomplish exactly that. So the popular 235/275 combo produces a 3* rake.

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: HPP on July 06, 2015, 08:27:37 AM
A 26" front and 28" rear tire arrangement would accomplish exactly that. So the popular 235/275 combo produces a 3* rake.

good point will need to google a calculator for tire size I hve, lol...