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Brakes.....WHAT BRAKES?!?!?

Started by PettyMower, June 21, 2015, 08:24:02 AM

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PettyMower

Driving the 'Bird last week and the ignition died, like I shut it off. I quickly bumped the shifter to Neutral, and safely got the car to a stop on a side road.

With NO power-assist to the master cylinder, it took all my might to get the car to a stop from 50 mph.

Has anyone else experienced the lack of power-assist while in motion? It could have easily been a much worse situation!!!

(The problem appear to be a coil failure (MSD Blaster 2 that I installed in the early 90's). The MSD tech walked me through a couple of ohm readings, and the numbers were not as they should be. It has been replaced with a NEW MSD Blaster 2 coil. So far, so good.)

hemi68charger

Scary event to say the least..... Always remember, you have your emergency brake to help.... I had to  use mine once.... One thing the military has taught me; think clearly under adverse conditions....
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Hemi Runner

Did you eliminate the ballast resistor when using that coil?

PettyMower

No....I used the Ballast resistor that came with the coil.

Should I eliminate it?  I've heard that you can when using electronic ignition.

b5blue

Yup happened to me a few times, it's why I've converted to manual.  :2thumbs:

PettyMower

I was wondering if someone would mention converting to a "manual" brake master cylinder. I'd really hate to do that, but I'd more-so hate to be without brakes!  LOL

Hemi Runner

Quote from: PettyMower on June 21, 2015, 09:00:14 AM
No....I used the Ballast resistor that came with the coil.

Should I eliminate it?  I've heard that you can when using electronic ignition.
If it came with one, it must need it. Did you happen to measure run voltage at the coil on that ballast vs the original one? I use the MSD Digital 7 and 8251 coil that eliminates the ballast.

b5blue

Quote from: PettyMower on June 21, 2015, 09:22:30 AM
I was wondering if someone would mention converting to a "manual" brake master cylinder. I'd really hate to do that, but I'd more-so hate to be without brakes!  LOL
:lol: "The last time the booster failed" was when I did it! (Cheaper to swap than repair boost.) Now I actually prefer it.

hemi68charger

Regarding the ballast resistor on removing it. Albeit, there are a lot of ballast resistor elimination steps when installing MSD systems. I didn't want to eliminate mine when I installed the MSD 6AL and the appropriate coil on my Daytona, I wanted the firewall to look as stock as possible. So, replaced the resistor part of the ballast resistor with a straight 14 or 16 gauge wire, can't remember which one. I used OEM male terminal ends on both sides and feed them through the ceramic housing then plugged the original wire back up. Good to go, have a complete 12v circuit and looks totally OEM...

Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

thehemikid

 I have been thinking of going to manual brakes for the ease of #7 plug change on the Hemi.  Even though the more I've removed the booster the better/fast I get at it.  Even put a quick release pin like a hood pin in place of the carter pin.   But, ....an electrical gremlin surprise, then the engine dies, ...gives me a whole different view of the Booster!!!  Not planning on changing anything just yet though.

Hemi Runner

Quote from: hemi68charger on June 21, 2015, 12:32:38 PM
Regarding the ballast resistor on removing it. Albeit, there are a lot of ballast resistor elimination steps when installing MSD systems. I didn't want to eliminate mine when I installed the MSD 6AL and the appropriate coil on my Daytona, I wanted the firewall to look as stock as possible. So, replaced the resistor part of the ballast resistor with a straight 14 or 16 gauge wire, can't remember which one. I used OEM male terminal ends on both sides and feed them through the ceramic housing then plugged the original wire back up. Good to go, have a complete 12v circuit and looks totally OEM...


I removed the resistance coil and replaced it with a solid brass rod and soldered the terminal ends to it. I reinserted the assembly and potted the back with JB Weld.

nascarxx29

I had booster failure.hold ebrake lever out use e brake like a foot brake thouugh. No brake  lights
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

nascarxx29

I did convert my big block 70 coronet to manual disc .Gi ving me time to send booster out for rebuild.But still on manual disc.its not that bad changed pushrod and firewall support plate
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

kiwitrev

on my grand adventure in my newly acquired bird the boost went away on my brakes so I  know all about stopping with "manual" brakes that and a couple of other minor issues related to a car being stored for a few years has me finishing my road trip in a rental.
moral of the story ... if you store a car if at all possible once every 6 months or so take it out for a ten mile drive or more to get it all up to temp and the fluids flowing
if it was easy anyone could do it

joining the list my cars group
69 Daytona
70 superbird
66 charger
60 corvette
63 corvette split window
tesla S
96 bronco
10 aston DBS
64 DB5
59 custom cpe deville
TR4
lotus super 7
GTD40
32 roadster and coupe
62 nova57 chev 210 hard top