Advice on adding an Aux fuse block

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I am in the process of rewiring my 69 with a reproduction M&H harness but want to add in a small 3 circuit modern blade fuse block to run a couple accessories. Just wanted to hear if anyone had any issues or advice on adding in one of these.  

I am looking at a Painless 3 circuit block that uses a fuse tap onto an ignition hot fuse. It has a relay built in and gets power directly from the battery. Is this a good choice or is there a better option out there? For now it will just power the electric fans but will eventually have a fuel pump wired into it. Just want to make sure I don't overload the stock fuse block.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-70113/overview/

[oldcarnut]

I'm in the process of wiring in a complete blade fuse box. I have more circuits to wire in it than stock glass fuse would take.  I will be running a relay block I also picked up the junk yard to run fans, a/c, lights, and ? but under the hood.  Have you considered running those through a fused relay block activated by the switch but have the main power draw under the hood?  Here's what I'm starting with. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,117369.0.html

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I thought about it but didn't want to get in over my head since wiring is not my strong suit   And since the car is running perfectly I wanted the swap to be straight forward and plug right in to the all the existing components.

I didn't actually plan to redo the wiring but once I pulled my a/c box to redo it I figured might as well replace the wires while it was out. So I figured I couldn't screw anything up if I replaced the stock stuff. But if I was redoing the whole car I would definitely run all modern stuff like you are doing. Also fill all the holes on the firewall and hide everything in the fenders so nothing is showing. But the current car is painted and running so nothing crazy for now.  

[tan top]

 I  used a couple of these ,  8 gang  standard blade fuse boxes  , up under the dash  , in conjunction with the OEM fuse box ,   

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hla-h84960101

[WHITE AND RED 69]

I  used a couple of these ,  8 gang  standard blade fuse boxes  , up under the dash  , in conjunction with the OEM fuse box ,   

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hla-h84960101

Not bad, that's another option.    What kind of accessories did you run off them and how did you wire them? Did you use relays as well?

[tan top]

I  used a couple of these ,  8 gang  standard blade fuse boxes  , up under the dash  , in conjunction with the OEM fuse box ,  

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hla-h84960101

Not bad, that's another option.    What kind of accessories did you run off them and how did you wire them? Did you use relays as well?

 well  nothing much more than stock at the moment , nothing fancy  just put in extra a few spares , one day  fuel injection etc   , it all started couple of years after I finished a nut an bolt resto , decided to do my own take of the Mad amp gauge by pass & convert the OEM gauge to a volt meter . , went inside the new M& H harnesses ,   well I redesigned the charging circuit ( for a HiPo alternator at a later date )  thick gauge wire  maxi fuses in engine bay , done away with the red & black wire to amp meter & fusible link , ran thick gauge wire in car from starter relay to a junction box ,  then the three power cables to headlamp switch , ignition switch & fuse box , all protected with a standard  blade fuse each  , on a 4 gang fuse box , then decided to do away with the last  , week link , the  ignition 1 & ignition 2 wires that run through the fire wall block connector ,  & protected them each with a blade fuse  ,  plus rather having in line fuses for fuel pump  plus volt meter  also , HD flasher relays I put in  ( said max 10 amp ) decided , to put  a couple of 8 gang fuses boxes  under the dash & tidy things up , while I was swapping the AC heaterbox to a standard one  last November . so in a nut shell , every thing is protected by  standard blade fuses should something go wrong  , long before any fuses blow in the OEM fuse box , , plus have a few spare fuses for when  add more stuff . anything that needs the ignition  on to operate  ,  I just ran piggy back terminals ( like the factory did ) from the accessory terminal in the OEM fuse box , then to the blade fuse box /s  then just connect what ever to the other side , add appropriate fuse , keep a eye on how many amps the new electrical stuff requires , not to over load things .
 over kill yes but once I started one thing lead to another & just snowballed , any  extra heavy duty electrical stuff  IMO would use relays  & or  use separate power feed , & by pass factory fuse box , run as a separate circuit etc .

so right now  , the extra blade fuses under the dash  are for as follows

  ignition switch
  head light switch     these three are  from main power fed - starter relay
 fuse box power ,

fuel pump
 volt meter
 ignition start
 ignition run
  emergency flasher
 turn signal flasher
  auxiliary gauge lamps
 radio
 
blade fuses in engine bay  for  blue & green ,  field wires from alternator  

maxi fuses for main alternator power wire .

lots of alterations  , but  to the un trained eye , don't look too different from stock under the hood .  more noticeable is the coil moved to the inner fender   & metered return line from the carb

all this electrical stuff I done !  its over kill yes but ...  all fuses are in one place easy to get at etc    

everythings in place ready for adding fuel injection & other stuff one day

[c00nhunterjoe]

I used the $10 6 fuse unit as posted above. They are cheap and easy to use. Mine is not done yet, but i will be running the fuel pump (shown wired in with relay), i will be adding electric fans, electric water pump, and my rocker switch panel

[1974dodgecharger]

hell I have 2 of them in mine, lmao.....one near passenger kick panel and one near side wall where alternator is...

[mopar0166]

I used my glove box, remounted the stock box and then added a box I got from west marine, does the job great. 

I even put in a kill switch to cut all power except what might absolutely be needed

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Good stuff guys!    I ordered a couple different fuse blocks and will see what works the best. I do like the idea of the painless block with the built in relay though.

[Jaysick]

The wiring was a mess in my car when I got it, everything wired wrong. Constant power was wired up to an old plastic maxifuse holder that was screwed to the firewall and had another screw, screwed into the plastic with all these wires hooked up to it with ring heads.   I ended up added two fuse blocks and started wiring everything up through those.  Once for key on and one for constant. 
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=pd_sim_200_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0RRJC88QQACE1WG7G1P1

I live by the beach so I shop at west marine a lot to get salt water proof stuff lol.

[Rolling_Thunder]

I've done these quite a few times on customer cars....     I usually pull off the starter relay to power the block and have a relay triggered by the Ign hot wire - that way the accessories don't give problems while the car is off. Also - most people never notice a second small wire on the starter relay.