Need help with temp gauge

[69skcharger]

I am trying to figure out a problem with my temperature gauge. Originally, it appeared to not work at all, so I replaced the sending unit. This didn't fix the issue. I took the cluster out and found that the gauge itself was broken, the internal wire burnt off. I ordered a new gauge and installed it. Now when I turn the key on, the gauge slowly progresses to the "hot" area, without the engine on. I suspect this is what burnt out the original gauge.

I used my voltmeter and found that there is 12 volts to the sending wire. Should this not be 5V?

I also tested the sending unit and it showed 30ohms cold, should this not be closer to 75?

What do you suggest I replace next? Instrument voltage regulator? the sending unit (again)?

Also, the 12 volts to the sending wire does not pulse. I was told that it should.

Thanks for your advice.

[John_Kunkel]

If there is a steady 12V to the gauge, the IVR is bad and, yes, that will fry the gauge. 30 ohms cold does sound low.

[Stegs]

to the OP (in case you didnt do this yet)

Not to tell you what to do...but i installed a mechanical temp gauge in my charger last week. Its way more accurate then the stock gauge. I kept my original just becuase i like the factory look, but the mechanical underneath the dash is way more helpful

If your having issues with the factory gauge, id strongly suggest a autometer temp gauge..takes all of 20 min to install!

[keith88]

I just put a mechanical one in as well and found out that my stock gauge was 30 degrees lower than what it really runs.

[Stegs]

I just put a mechanical one in as well and found out that my stock gauge was 30 degrees lower than what it really runs.

thats funny, mine was higher.

[PlainfieldCharger]

I just put a mechanical one in as well and found out that my stock gauge was 30 degrees lower than what it really runs.

thats funny, mine was higher.

I have a new gauge and new sending unit and mine is 30 degrees hotter also...

[Dino]

You guys just need to learn how to calibrate the gauges.   

OP, get the solid state limiter and clean the circuit board.  Solder the pins to the board if you haven't done so.  When you have the limiter you can calibrate the gauge before you reinstall the dash.  Regardless of the ohm reading, having a temporary mechanic temp gauge ensures the stock gauge reads the same.

[Pete in NH]

Dino is right on target with this one. Take a look at the instrument cluster restoration sticky posting at the top of this section for how to check out and calibrate Chrysler gauges. It isn't too hard to make up a little gauge test jig.