engine swap from 383 to 426 crate hemi in 68 charger

[PRO_CHARGER]

Trying to figure out what steering linkages I need to do a proper swap in my 68 charger.... I was thinking about going with the unisteer system but I am unsure if it will clear with the new engine... I have purchased the mounts by shumacher,  headers from tti and torsion bars from mopar..... wanting helps so I can get my project back on the road

[Charger-Bodie]

None of the steering stuff should need to change other than the pressure hose and fitting for the power steering .

[PRO_CHARGER]

Well I am trying to upgrade it so that it no longer handles like a boat. ... guess I should have specified that and would the steering box clear with the stock set up

[John_Kunkel]

The Unisteer has gotten bad feedback in just about every Mopar forum. If you want to blow money on the steering, consider the Borgeson swap.

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/catalog/Mopar_Cars_196282-orderby_0-p-1-c-142.html

[myk]

Well I am trying to upgrade it so that it no longer handles like a boat. ... guess I should have specified that and would the steering box clear with the stock set up

If you want to address the boat-like handling then do something about the actual suspension first.  Performance shocks and larger front and possibly rear sway bars will make an incredible improvement in your cars handling.  Next up could be subframe connectors and torque boxes to tighten things up.  At this point your car will be more solid than you could've imagined.  If you want to dial in your suspension then there are adjustable strut rods, offset control arm bushings and other things you can try.

I've heard nothing good about the Unisteer systems; better off with stock based steering systems...

[c00nhunterjoe]

Frame connectors, shocks, dropped steering pressure, wider front tires. That there will make an incredible difference.

[ACUDANUT]

Maybe a little wider front tire too. Those 70's are too skinny for me.  I run 60's.
Wait, why are 60's wider than 70 ?  The bigger the number, the wider the tire. Not so. 

[Troy]

Maybe a little wider front tire too. Those 70's are too skinny for me.  I run 60's.
Wait, why are 60's wider than 70 ?  The bigger the number, the wider the tire. Not so. 

The 60 or 70 value is the "aspect ratio". It's the height of the sidewall as a percentage of tire width. The larger number in the tire size is the width (ie the 225 in 222/60-15). A 225/70 and a 225/60 have the same width but the 60 is shorter due to the shorter sidewalls. The reason most people think it's related to width is because, as a tire gets wider, the aspect ratio needs to change so the height doesn't increase as well. Ditto for going with a larger rim. For example, a 195/75-14 (roughly factory size) will be almost exactly the same height as a 225/60-15 - but the 225 is 1.2" wider with sidewalls that are .4" shorter.

The Hemi is going to be a big change (not just power - but weight and balance). The non-R/T cars came with 10" (2" wide I think) drums all around. Not a good pairing for a heavy engine with loads of torque/power! Before messing with the steering you're really going to want to upgrade the suspension and brakes - to at least the factory HD equipment (larger torsion bars, bigger rear springs, 11'x3" drums in front with discs optional). The factory HD suspension was OK in 1968 but seems inadequate with a decent set of modern radial tires so most people opt for even bigger torsion and sway bars. A modern set of shocks wouldn't hurt. Upgrading all the bushing will help tighten everything up. Then you can worry about steering. Don't forget to upgrade the fuel system too!

Troy

[myk]

Damn I forgot about the brakes.  Yeah you have to upgrade to factory discs at the least.  No engine or suspension/chassis 'mods will matter if you can't control your speed...

[PRO_CHARGER]

Will the engine fit with the stock steering box or do I need to get a smaller one .... the car has front disc and rear drums one day I would like to do 4 wheel disc and upgrade everything

[RallyeMike]

Yes. The steering box in a 68 Charger is the same box no matter what engine it came with.

[Mike DC]

   

Umm . . . I'm not sure everyone is talking about the same "426 crate Hemi" around here . . .

[John_Kunkel]

Will the engine fit with the stock steering box or do I need to get a smaller one

The only difference in the Hemi steering box is the aforementioned 90° pressure hose fitting at the valve. This is another case of factory engineers being overly-cautious to maintain a certain clearance to the valve cover...the straight fitting clears.

[adauto]

 

Umm . . . I'm not sure everyone is talking about the same "426 crate Hemi" around here . . .

whats that motor in the bottom pic? 

[cdr]

THE UNISTEER rack will not work with a 2nd gen hemi.

[Mike DC]

Word on the street is that the Unisteer rack sucks even when it does fit.  Bad geometry, huge turning circle, etc.

If you want a R/P conversion then the RMS K-frame is probably a better idea.  But I personally wouldn't be considering a R/P conversion for handling reasons alone.  I'd only go that route if it was a major clearance issue.  The stock front suspension is very real-world durable and its drawbacks can be mostly corrected.

[polywideblock]

     what about the borgeson power steering  box conversion that all the mopar mags have featured  give a bit extra room  and firms up feel   

             http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1505-retrofit-power-steering-box-from-borgeson-one-good-turn/

[SRT-440]

I know this is an old thread..but I now have a borguson steering box...way better than stock..feels like a new car actually..feels firm and not "boat like". At speed on the freeway is where u really tell the difference..stock power steering is kinda scary over 55 mph.
I do have firmer shocks, bigger torson bars, subframe connectors...which helps also. 

[johnnycharger]

Well I am trying to upgrade it so that it no longer handles like a boat. ... guess I should have specified that and would the steering box clear with the stock set up

If you want to address the boat-like handling then do something about the actual suspension first.  Performance shocks and larger front and possibly rear sway bars will make an incredible improvement in your cars handling.  Next up could be subframe connectors and torque boxes to tighten things up.  At this point your car will be more solid than you could've imagined.  If you want to dial in your suspension then there are adjustable strut rods, offset control arm bushings and other things you can try.

I've heard nothing good about the Unisteer systems; better off with stock based steering systems...

Hi Myk
Where would you put new rear leaf springs on this list? 

.

[myk]

I did the suspension in two stages.  The first move was Mopar Performance subframe connectors, Hotchkis shocks and sway bars; this made a startling change in the handling of the car with just those pieces.  Next up were the Hotchkis torsion bars, strut rods, tie rods, leaf springs and upper control arms.  This didn't net as much of a change but i could still feel the difference.

For you, I'd recommend the shocks, sway bars, subframe connectors, torsion bars and leaf springs all at once.  You probably won't need to go any further than that if you don't want to...

[johnnycharger]

Thanks myk. I am not buying yet just planning and saving but it is good to what order to do it in. 

[Kern Dog]

looks like the OP did a "Keyser Soze" and POOOF! Just disappeared....

[1974dodgecharger]

looks like the OP did a "Keyser Soze" and POOOF! Just disappeared....

a lot of people do that once they realize the cost of a 2nd gen charger to restore....probably sold it after realizing the crate engine of a 426 is stupid expensive.


Reminds me of this guy he said he had 15k to restore a 68 charger from nothing to showroom quality winning trophies with a blown 426 hemi.....he unfriended me on facebook now....