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Do i need a new clutch bearing?

Started by euroZ06, May 01, 2015, 10:39:57 PM

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euroZ06

Hello,

So recently i changed tranny fluid, and installed dust shield. I also tightened the bolts on the side of the tranny (its leaking a bit). After all this i started to have this whistling sound when the clutch is not pressed. When i press in the clutch it goes away. I also hear similar sound when rolling in gear (sounds kind of like a truck). Now, i initially thought it the clutch throwout bearing, but i replaced the clutch 8 months ago (just the clutch, i cant recall what i ordered, it was just the clutch from summit racing, not sure if it came with the throwout bearing. Shop did the work). From the papers i have on the car i know for sure that it was replaced two years ago, i have paperwork from previous owner (he did have the wrong clutch in it, thats why i replaced just the clutch).

So with that being said, is it possible that i overtightened the cover or maybe didnt put enough oil or wrong oil (i put shock proof gear oil, redline).

If it is in fact the bearing, can someone give me pointers on how to replace it? How hard is it?

I got a month left before i ship it with me to germany and im trying to solve all the problems that i have...
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

Its a 73 with 440 and 4 speed (a833)
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

six-tee-nine

Did you check the alignment of the bellhousing to the engine
If the bell is not centered correct to the engine its easy to ruin a new throwout bearing in a short amount of time.

You need to center the bellhousing first with a gauge properly, then put in place your clutch and pressure plate with an alignment tool to correctly center the clutch disk. Its no rocket science but needs to be done correct to last a while...
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


euroZ06

Quote from: six-tee-nine on May 02, 2015, 06:21:21 AM
Did you check the alignment of the bellhousing to the engine
If the bell is not centered correct to the engine its easy to ruin a new throwout bearing in a short amount of time.

You need to center the bellhousing first with a gauge properly, then put in place your clutch and pressure plate with an alignment tool to correctly center the clutch disk. Its no rocket science but needs to be done correct to last a while...


Thanks. I have put a few thousand miles on the car since the clutch was installed. Could i have thrown off the alignment when i was replacing my tranny mount? I had hard time putting it in cause the bolt holes wouldnt line up, so i had to jam it in there (eventually changed to a different mount cause i got nasty vibrations after the mount install).
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

John_Kunkel


Have you checked the clutch free play? Forget the pedal free play and check the play at the end of the throwout fork...should be 5/32".
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

euroZ06

Any guidance on how to check that?

Im really not a pro at this, lots of this is new to me.  I know an old guy that helps me do some work on the car, but he is kind of grumpy and just says replace everything.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

John_Kunkel

In the pic below find the release fork and the insulator at the end of the fork rod, there should be 5/32" of free play between them when pulling rearward on the lever...there should be a spring between the release fork and the bellhousing to pull the lever forward when the clutch pedal is released.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

A383Wing

if noise is present when clutch is not pressed and goes away when pressing down on clutch, that's more likely to be input shaft bearing rather than clutch throw-out bearing.

euroZ06

Quote from: A383Wing on May 03, 2015, 05:25:07 PM
if noise is present when clutch is not pressed and goes away when pressing down on clutch, that's more likely to be input shaft bearing rather than clutch throw-out bearing.

Can u expand please? How to replace?
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

A383Wing

remove trans, take trans apart, replace the front input shaft bearing behind the retainer, (might as well rebuild entire trans while out), put trans back together, re-install trans back into car.

Noise also could be counter-shaft bearings deep inside trans also.

If noise stops when clutch pushed in, that means the trans components have stopped turning also, so noise is from in there....the throw-out bearing is still turning when you are pushing in clutch pedal, so if it's quiet then, that is not where noise is coming from

euroZ06

Ok, i found a tranny rebuild kit on brewers performance site, is everything i need in that kit?

How much time would it take for a pro shop to do the work? I am getting quoted $100 an hour :/
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

On another note: could this have been cause by tranny fluid? I put in redline shock proof oil in it.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

A383Wing

our transmissions are made to run 140w or 90w...anything less viscosity will cause premature wear on the internal parts