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Firecore RTR system

Started by Dino, September 07, 2013, 08:08:07 AM

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Dino

Ron is setting me up with a Firecore RTR system, but it will be a while before they're back in stock so I have a question regarding the ballast resistor.  If I understand it, the ballast resistor and the orange box will be obsolete once I have the Firecore system right?  Which wires exactly will be deleted? 

When I install the new alternator and regulator it would be nice to be prepared to add Firecore without having to redo all the wiring.

Any tips?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Pete in NH

Hi Dino,

I don't know anything about the Firecore system but yes the Mopar Orange box would come out. Not sure about the ballast resistor not knowing anything about the Firecore system. Do you know if the Firecore system uses the Chrysler electronic distributor to trigger it or do you change the distributor and /or pick up coil?

Dino

Quote from: Pete in NH on September 07, 2013, 09:30:14 AM
Hi Dino,

I don't know anything about the Firecore system but yes the Mopar Orange box would come out. Not sure about the ballast resistor not knowing anything about the Firecore system. Do you know if the Firecore system uses the Chrysler electronic distributor to trigger it or do you change the distributor and /or pick up coil?

Hi Pete!

The Firecore system will consist of a coil and a distributor that has the ecu built in.  I checked and the orange box and ballast resistor will indeed be obsolete.  I guess I can trace those wires back to wherever they go and get rid of it all then!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

John L

Dino,
I recently put the Firecore RTR unit in my 70 Charger. It comes with no instructions but Ron walked me through it quite nicely. Here is what I did, as for the distributor wiring the red wire goes to coil +, the orange to coil -, the black to a good ground, your done here, now to the Coil power. You will need 2 sources of 12v power, one full time and one with the key in the start position, both can be found at the ballast resistor that will be eliminated completely.
  Your ballast has two terminals, one with a brown and a blue wire in a common connector the blue wire here goes to your current coil +. The other side of the ballast has a single blue wire on it. Tie the brown and the single blue from the opposite sides of the ballast together. Splice another wire in here with them and run it to coil +, don't forget to get rid of the old blue wire on your current coil + position. Your coil will now have 12 v full time thus eliminating the need for the ballast. HTH.
If I have any of my info wrong someone please correct me, this is how I did mine and it is working fine.

John

Dino

Thanks John!

My engine bay sure will look cleaner, the amount of wires I can get rid of or move is quite nice.  I would like to remove the engine bay harness to clean it up but I should probably wait until I have the Firecore system.  That will take a while so I'll have to be without my car for a bit longer.  I could do it all later but it's so easy working on it now with all these parts removed.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Quote from: John L on September 07, 2013, 01:33:23 PM
Dino,
I recently put the Firecore RTR unit in my 70 Charger. It comes with no instructions but Ron walked me through it quite nicely. Here is what I did, as for the distributor wiring the red wire goes to coil +, the orange to coil -, the black to a good ground, your done here, now to the Coil power. You will need 2 sources of 12v power, one full time and one with the key in the start position, both can be found at the ballast resistor that will be eliminated completely.
  Your ballast has two terminals, one with a brown and a blue wire in a common connector the blue wire here goes to your current coil +. The other side of the ballast has a single blue wire on it. Tie the brown and the single blue from the opposite sides of the ballast together. Splice another wire in here with them and run it to coil +, don't forget to get rid of the old blue wire on your current coil + position. Your coil will now have 12 v full time thus eliminating the need for the ballast. HTH.
If I have any of my info wrong someone please correct me, this is how I did mine and it is working fine.

John

My Firecore system will be here soon so I was looking over this again.  So I tie the brown and the opposite blue from the resistor together.  If I have this right, the blue goes to the voltage regulator and the brown goes to the ignition switch. The other blue that is already hooked to the brown goes to the coil +.  Can I not simply fuse all three and leave one blue on the coil and the other on the regulator?  In essence the ballast resistor gets replaced with a connector.  Do I have this right?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

John L

Dino,
I do believe you can do just that. The coil I purchased from Ron needed relocating so I just ran a new wire from the splice at the ballast to the coil. The existing wire was not long enough to reach the left inner fender (new coil location).

John

Charger4404spd

Quote from: John L on September 07, 2013, 01:33:23 PM
Your coil will now have 12 v full time thus eliminating the need for the ballast. HTH.
If I have any of my info wrong someone please correct me, this is how I did mine and it is working fine.

John

So I am assuming this coil operates on a constant 12v ? Just curious!

1974dodgecharger


Dino

I'll post pics as soon as I have the kit.  I'm just prepping my electrical for it at this time.

As I understand, the coil will have a constant 12v.  I'm not sure how the keyed and constant 12v tied together work though.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

firefighter3931

Quote from: Charger4404spd on October 26, 2013, 06:51:50 PM
Quote from: John L on September 07, 2013, 01:33:23 PM
Your coil will now have 12 v full time thus eliminating the need for the ballast. HTH.
If I have any of my info wrong someone please correct me, this is how I did mine and it is working fine.

John

So I am assuming this coil operates on a constant 12v ? Just curious!

Hi Steve,

The FireCore CD ignition coil is designed to run on a constant 12v feed thus eliminating the step down requirement (ballist resistor). This is the same coil we recommend using with an external box (MSD/Mallory/Crane etc...)

Quote from: Dino on October 27, 2013, 07:27:51 AM
I'll post pics as soon as I have the kit.  I'm just prepping my electrical for it at this time.

As I understand, the coil will have a constant 12v.  I'm not sure how the keyed and constant 12v tied together work though.


Dirk,

The ignition system requires 12v to fire and run. On a Chrysler electrical system these are separate wires. One wire sends 12V to the ignition during cranking. The second wire sends 12V when the ignition key is in the run position. If you don't send power when the engine is cranking it won't start. If there's no power once the engine starts and you release the key it won't stay running. This is why the two wires need to be tied together.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Dino

Quote from: firefighter3931 on October 27, 2013, 08:38:53 AM
Quote from: Charger4404spd on October 26, 2013, 06:51:50 PM
Quote from: John L on September 07, 2013, 01:33:23 PM
Your coil will now have 12 v full time thus eliminating the need for the ballast. HTH.
If I have any of my info wrong someone please correct me, this is how I did mine and it is working fine.

John

So I am assuming this coil operates on a constant 12v ? Just curious!

Hi Steve,

The FireCore CD ignition coil is designed to run on a constant 12v feed thus eliminating the step down requirement (ballist resistor). This is the same coil we recommend using with an external box (MSD/Mallory/Crane etc...)

Quote from: Dino on October 27, 2013, 07:27:51 AM
I'll post pics as soon as I have the kit.  I'm just prepping my electrical for it at this time.

As I understand, the coil will have a constant 12v.  I'm not sure how the keyed and constant 12v tied together work though.


Dirk,

The ignition system requires 12v to fire and run. On a Chrysler electrical system these are separate wires. One wire sends 12V to the ignition during cranking. The second wire sends 12V when the ignition key is in the run position. If you don't send power when the engine is cranking it won't start. If there's no power once the engine starts and you release the key it won't stay running. This is why the two wires need to be tied together.  ;)



Ron

Ahh that makes sense!  Thanks!   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Can you guys confirm I have this right?  Also, any suggestions on how to splice together those 5 wires? 
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

b5blue

Well? I've been waiting....I know your busy  :lol:  but what did you do?

Dino

LOL you are a patient man!   :lol:

I tried the schematic I posted and it works just fine.   :yesnod:

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

b5blue

Thanks I made a printed copy.  :2thumbs:

Dino

I'll see if I can dig up some pictures of the splices and wire routings.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

b5blue

No go back to your homework young man!  :lol: