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So my oil pan is sitting on steering rack, help

Started by euroZ06, April 16, 2015, 11:13:09 PM

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euroZ06

Car is 73, originally 400, with a swapped 440.

My oil pan was close to the steering rack, but was sitting on it. Now recently i got these harmonics coming through the body at 2k rpm, then i started having these crazy vibrations when i start out in 1st. Like the whole pannel would shake, along with the steering wheel. If i dont realease the clutch just right, the whole thing will shake like crazy. So i had it at the shop to try and see whats wrong, and they told me that my oil pan is sitting on my steering rack (which it wasnt before). They told me i should be able to somehow raise the engine, loosen up the engine mounts, raise the engine, then tighten the mounts again. Is that possible? Or are my engine mounts shot? I tried looking at them, they look ok, i didnt see any rips, but i could be wrong, as the view is not clear (i have stupid aftermarket headers).
Another option the gave me is to just take off oil pan and make a dent in it.

Finally, my ball joints are bad, so maybe that has something to do with it?


Replacing engine mounts is a big pain in the ars, its either rediculously expensive, or rediculously difficult (due to my stupid headers).
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

BSB67

Quote from: euroZ06 on April 16, 2015, 11:13:09 PM
Car is 73, originally 400, with a swapped 440.

My oil pan was close to the steering rack, but was sitting on it. Now recently i got these harmonics coming through the body at 2k rpm, then i started having these crazy vibrations when i start out in 1st. Like the whole pannel would shake, along with the steering wheel. If i dont realease the clutch just right, the whole thing will shake like crazy. So i had it at the shop to try and see whats wrong, and they told me that my oil pan is sitting on my steering rack (which it wasnt before). They told me i should be able to somehow raise the engine, loosen up the engine mounts, raise the engine, then tighten the mounts again. Is that possible? Or are my engine mounts shot? I tried looking at them, they look ok, i didnt see any rips, but i could be wrong, as the view is not clear (i have stupid aftermarket headers).
Another option the gave me is to just take off oil pan and make a dent in it.

Finally, my ball joints are bad, so maybe that has something to do with it?

Replacing engine mounts is a big pain in the ars, its either rediculously expensive, or rediculously difficult (due to my stupid headers).

Fix everything in the front suspension first.  Go to a good front end shop. Pay close attention to the pitman arm and idler arms if the drag link is truly hitting the pan, which is a little hard to believe.

Your shutter at take-off is probably a clutch/PP, flywheel issue.  Probably oil.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

polywideblock

aren't you having clutch problems in another thread  , and harmonic problems in another one   :scratchchin: could they ALL be related to the one problem  ?


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

RallyeMike

When you say "steering rack", I assume you mean the cross link? I find it hard to believe the engine mounts are that bad, but I suppose they could be. Is the oil pan stock?

From all your posts, this car is starting to sound like a mess. Perhaps there is a more trusted and knowledgeable mechanic that can give it a full look over. It might be worth your while. It's not easy to diagnose a multitude of problems from thousands of miles away.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

JB400

How about posting a pic or two of your oil pan situation?  Did you use the oil pan off of the 400 or the one that came with the 440?

euroZ06

Cross link*

I replaced the idler arm. The shop checked my pitman arm and it looks fine (no play). Tie rods are good.

I had a bew clutch installed in august, flywheel was resurfaced and looked good. Car was missing clutch dust shield, so i got a new one.

Im trying to figure out what im putting in the car, vs what its worth. Im already upside down (i know that), but just exactly how much more do i need to make it right, thats the question. I am always being told to hang on to it, as it is an appreciating asset. So i dunno... I got orders to go to germany, maybe i can sell it there for a good amount, but who knows. I do love this car, but now its becoming a hassle, plus there is a really nice 68 posted for sale (which is what i really wanted in the first place), so with money i spent on restoring this i could have gotten that. Im already $20k into this (including the cost of the car), and thats since august of 2014. Is it even worth $20k? I see them for $15k, but mine seems to look a lot better...
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06





When i was looking, it was hard to find a good car for my budget at the time, with big block and a manual... So perhaps someone looking for this combo could shell out some...
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

BSB67

Car looks nice.

If you are not into fixing these cars yourself, and you are paying a mechanic to diagnose and do the work for you, this is probably not the right hobby for you.

Just because the clutch was recently replaced and fly wheel resurfaced does not mean that the shutter you have today isn't because of the clutch/PP/flywheel.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph