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Diy for diff replacement?

Started by euroZ06, March 17, 2015, 12:03:56 AM

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euroZ06

I also would need to refill it with oil, is the there an oil plug? What oil should i use?
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

John_Kunkel


You state that you can't open Zip files on your computer, why not download a FREE zip file opener and use it download a FSM from the site I posted earlier?

http://fyzip.com/download/free-fyzip-download.php?pk=463

You REALLY need a book.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

euroZ06

Hello,

I just wanted to thank you all for valuable advice! I have successfuly installed my dif in my little car port! Looking back at it, it was an easy job. I picked up refurbished 3.23 posi 489 case. It looked so fresh, i couldnt resist and decided to do the work myself! I tried reading that manual u guys advised on, and that thing kind of confused me, so i asked the guy i bought the dif from for some tips.

So here is how to set the axel end play (if anyone else is going to be searching for it):

Before u pull out the axels, tug on them, the little movement back and fourth is end play. It should be minor, but should be there (to avoid premature wear of bearings). One of the axels (usually the right one, but mine was on the left) will have a tightening ring. After u re-instal the axels (and bolt everything up), tug on the axels again. If play is more than what it was before, ull need to tighten it. The way u do it is using a flat head screw driver ad a hammer. Set the screw driver in one of the groves on the ring and tap until the ring turns a few ticks. Dont over do it, there should be some play, but not too much. Right is tight, left is loose. Thats it! Really simple!


Overall im extremelly happy i went from 3.91's to 3.23's! I wish ive done it sooner! Car feels so much better cruising around town and especially on the highway. I no longer have to hold up traffic in the left lane and can move with general flow. The whole "but its so much faster with 3.91's" is not noticable in normal driving. I got on it a few times and it still pulls like a train! I easily hit 110mph, without having my engine scream at 6k rpm.... Speaking of which, anyone knows what is the top speed with 3.23 and a833? Car should have enough power (425hp/500tq). Once again, ill be takingit to germany, so no issues with speed limits.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

Also, how bad is it to drive it at high rpm's? Say if i take it to said 100-120mph? 5k rpm or so... Not for long, just a sprint to it. Not sure how reliable these engines are. Mine has mild cam, some aftermarket valve springs, some other minor stuff (440).
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

Quote from: Sublime/Sixpack on March 23, 2015, 09:39:56 PM
Everyone has their own preferred way of doing tasks, with that said I agree no special puller is needed to pull the axles loose from the housing (I just use my fingers to yank on them and they generally pop out of place) of course you have to remove the nuts on the retainers first.
If replacing the 3rd member only I pull the axles out about 8 inches on each side so they clear the 3rd member. Once the driveshaft is unbolted and moved out of the way,  the center section nuts can be removed so it can be dropped out. Tip: remove all but the top four nuts then with a drain pan under the 3rd member loosen the top four nuts (this way the remaining nuts will act sort of like a hinge), then push up on the yolk to break the gasket seal so the gear oil can drain out before removing 3rd member. Much less messy that way. Keep in mind that the 3rd member is fairly heavy.
If removing axles be careful that you don't touch the seals in the housing with the splines of the axle ends (the splines are sharp enough to cut the seals). Actually this would be a good time to check the seals and replace if necessary.
Also, the 489 case (3rd member) will have a wider yoke than your 741 case so you'll need a special u-joint to mate your driveshaft to the 489 case yoke.
Hope this makes sense to you, and take into consideration some of the tips others have offered about proper axle end play adjustment, etc.



Damn it, forgot to pull the axels all the way out, hope i didnt damage anything. My right axel seems to be leaking, so prob one of the seals or gaskets has been busted (its been like that for a while). A local guy has a spare axel, so perhaps just replace the whole thing to avoid chasing the issue?

My 741 had a large yoke, so it fit perfectly (3 3/4).
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

John_Kunkel


Resting the weight of the axle shaft on aged stiff seals is a good way to leave a permanent "divot" in the seal lip...guaranteed leak.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

euroZ06

Is that seal hard to buy and replace? My one axel had a leak for a while now, so i wonder if its from that seal. What else could be leaking in there?
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55