News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Ordered Wilwood disc kit, need some info *UPDATE*

Started by Charger4404spd, March 23, 2015, 08:33:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Charger4404spd

I ordered the 4 piston Dynalite kit from Wilwood and I need help with a couple things.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-140-11020DR

First, what master cyl. bore size would you recommend?

Second, since I will install a prop. valve, do I need to remove the combination valve?

Third, if I do need to keep the combination valve, can I plumb the prop. valve between the m.c. and the comb. valve, or does it need to be after the comb. valve? This will be a manual brake setup.

Thanks in advance,
Steve


John_Kunkel


A combination valve already has a prop valve built in. Was your car originally drum or disc?
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Charger4404spd


Charger4404spd

Just spoke to Wilwood and he recommended this kit with a 1" bore.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-261-13269-p

Would still like to know what you guys think.

John_Kunkel


I'm not surprised that Wilwood tech recommended one of their high-buck setups...a factory 15/16" MC will work as well, won't need a 2-bolt to 4-bolt adapter and is cheaper. -

http://www.jegs.com/i/Right-Stuff/965/DBMC15/10002/-1?parentProductId=1556311

You can add an inline prop valve if needed.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Charger4404spd

Thanks John, that will certainly save me a lot of money. So I am assuming (based on your last reply) I can install everything and check braking first....meaning I may or may not need a prop valve?

Charger4404spd

John, I got the master cylinder you suggested and I went ahead and installed a prop. valve. Disc brake kit will be here tomorrow. :2thumbs:


Mopar Nut

"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Charger4404spd

Just finished installing the Wilwoods and everything went smooth. Only hiccup was the outer bearing supplied with the kit was too big for spindle, but the drum brake outer bearing worked. Will bleed lines tomorrow and try to go for a test run.




TexasStroker

Have you road tested them yet?  Curious to see how you liked them!
Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
www.amarilloareamopars.com
Founder, Lone Star Mopars
www.lonestarmopars.com
Will set-up a regional Charger meet
Contact me for info!

Charger4404spd

Just went for a nice drive too see how these expensive brakes would perform. It is better than the drums, meaning it stops straight now :icon_smile_big:, but not really impressed with the stopping distance.

Pedal is spongy and from 60 mph it takes (my opinion) too long to come to a stop. I adjusted the prop valve a couple times adding a little more bite to the rear as it was nose diving too much. Maybe after a few more times of aggressive braking it will improve.

Im pretty sure I got all the air out, but being the pedal is spongy I will double check that. Looking back, I wished I had got the 12" rotors, still plenty of room.

Any opinions as to the spongy pedal?

Dino

The issue may be the master cylinder bore size still.  Sometimes push rod length is an issue as well.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Patronus

Did you bench bleed the master?
Did the perform the bed-in procedure?
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE