Doors and subframe connectors

[Dreamcar]

I've decided that before starting to replace any more body panels, I'd install subframe connectors to keep the car as stable as possible before doing any major body panel replacement. The car has no engine or trans installed, and the interior is gutted. However, the car still sits on its saggy suspension. The doors are on the car, but they were bolted on quickly and not well lined up. Many subframe connector instructions say to check how the doors open/close before and after installing the connectors.

So my question:
Because the car has no major weight in it (no engine, trans, interior), can I still line up the doors now (to make sure they open and close properly), before installing the connectors?

[Charger-Bodie]

Yes. you should be ok. You may need to tweak the adjustment on the door a little later on but not much.

[HPP]

If its gutted, put it on 6 jack stands, make everything level, weld 'em in. You are going to have to adjust panels anyway, so why not start with as good a base as possible.

Installation on the suspension is great for finished cars that need to maintain gaps and alignment. If you going to do body work anyway, might as well do it the best way possible to avoid locking in any alternate dimensions.

[Dreamcar]

If its gutted, put it on 6 jack stands, make everything level, weld 'em in. You are going to have to adjust panels anyway, so why not start with as good a base as possible.

Installation on the suspension is great for finished cars that need to maintain gaps and alignment. If you going to do body work anyway, might as well do it the best way possible to avoid locking in any alternate dimensions.

That was my other option...I already have measurements at four spots on the bottom of the frame rails where the ground clearance should be exactly the same. I figured if I sat the car on leveled out stands on those four spots, the car should be in its natural position, even without weight in in. I could then add more stands at each end of the car to keep it even more stable (8 stands in total). At that point, I could remove the suspension, axle, k-frame, and have nothing but a shell with doors attached. Then I could line the doors up, keep them closed, and install the connectors.

Thoughts?

[HPP]

That's how I usually do it, even if it messes up my panel gaps. But my cars are all ugly anyway.

I'll use 8 stands, verify square, plum, and level, and add weight and spacers where necessary to achieve that. There is a reason why performance chassis are built on a surface plate. Why not duplicate that where practical.

[matrout76]

That's how I usually do it, even if it messes up my panel gaps. But my cars are all ugly anyway.

I'll use 8 stands, verify square, plum, and level, and add weight and spacers where necessary to achieve that. There is a reason why performance chassis are built on a surface plate. Why not duplicate that where practical.

Where do you place those 8 stands? 

I'm planning on getting some of these to dial in the level part:  http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44560-Olympian-Aluminum-Stack/dp/B000760FWU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426786665&sr=8-3&keywords=screw+jack

Thanks!
Matt

[Dreamcar]

That's how I usually do it, even if it messes up my panel gaps. But my cars are all ugly anyway.

I'll use 8 stands, verify square, plum, and level, and add weight and spacers where necessary to achieve that. There is a reason why performance chassis are built on a surface plate. Why not duplicate that where practical.

But are you able to fix the gaps later? My car has no fenders or hood bolted on, so I hope I'll be able to adjust them later after the connectors are in.

[Dreamcar]

That's how I usually do it, even if it messes up my panel gaps. But my cars are all ugly anyway.

I'll use 8 stands, verify square, plum, and level, and add weight and spacers where necessary to achieve that. There is a reason why performance chassis are built on a surface plate. Why not duplicate that where practical.

Where do you place those 8 stands? 

I'm planning on getting some of these to dial in the level part:  http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44560-Olympian-Aluminum-Stack/dp/B000760FWU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426786665&sr=8-3&keywords=screw+jack

Thanks!
Matt

Using the pics and measurements, I'm going to use this for stand placement:
http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=framejig

[HPP]

Where do you place those 8 stands? 

near the core support up front, near front door edge, near leaf spring hanger, mid way to bumper on rear frame.

But are you able to fix the gaps later? My car has no fenders or hood bolted on, so I hope I'll be able to adjust them later after the connectors are in.

Yes. There are a pretty fair amount of adjustment built into door hinges, fender mounts, and hood hinges to move things around.