11.75 slider type disk swap, think I'm done. (?)

[b5blue]

  Converting from 10 drum to 11.75 disk brakes on a 70 Charger. Adding Hotchkis adjustable strut rods, using new repop UCA's with Moog offset bushings staggered for increased castor, using a manual master cylinder for disk brakes from "The Ram Man", all new lines from "Fine Lines", stainless braided front hoses from "Dr. Diff".  
 First installed most of the lines adding splice for rear brake pressure restriction.  

[b5blue]

After tear down I fitted the new strut rods and checked for any binding or fitment issues:

[b5blue]

  I installed the new UCA's and set for maximum castor and camber. Then mounted the 73 up type spindles with 11.75 caliper adapters torqued to 90lbs using new LCA to lower ball joint bolts from Rick E. on eBay.  Then installed new rotor splash shields from Dr. Diff.

[b5blue]

I installed new bearings in my aftermarket 80 St Regis rotors packed with Mopar wheel bearing grease # 05083149AA and tapped in new inner seals. Mounted the rotor and installed the new dust cap. Next I mounted the 79 Aspen type calipers loaded with "Bendix TitaniuMetallic II" pads (Part # MKD84) using the hardware kit included with the caliper. Then installed the hose. 

[b5blue]

  You can see I've also installed new Monroe Gas-matic shocks from Rock Auto. The LCA's were rebuilt about 3 years ago with reinforcement plates added and Moog bushings, they are in very good shape.  I replaced the rear wheel cylinders and shocks before installing new a hose and lines.
  I'd like to point out that 68-69 8 3/4 axles have the vent tube that attaches the brake hose and line splitter about 3-4 inches inward from a 70 8 3/4 axle. This cost me a week delay and 47 bucks to correct as my 70 Charger must have the earlier type housing. I WAS going to rebuild my brake unbalance switch but could not get the tiny brass plug to come loose to disassemble and remove the internal slider. (If that part acts up I'll need to buy a new replacement.)

[Nacho-RT74]

just a question... why not use Centric slotted and rilled rotors ? they are available on that size for lates Mopars. I'm running those on my 74 and got happy with them. Think on those when going to the 11.75" rotors upgrade. Not really expensive

[b5blue]

Out of money, started buying parts like rotors 7-8 years ago. Way over budget for time/money to add un-needed upgrades. 

[moparsr2fast]

  Looks really good Neal!    I did the same brake setup in a 70 Roadrunner a few years back. Worked out pretty good.

[b5blue]

Thanks! I'll do the master, bleed everything this weekend and post results.

[terrible one]

just a question... why not use Centric slotted and rilled rotors ? they are available on that size for lates Mopars. I'm running those on my 74 and got happy with them. Think on those when going to the 11.75" rotors upgrade. Not really expensive

I believe that aside from during extreme conditions where braking performance is truly affected by the heat/ gases coming off of the pads, the only thing you are doing with drilled/ slotted rotors is giving up surface area, which is what most are trying to gain by going to larger rotors

[b5blue]

The car will not be raced, just driven normally. 

[b5blue]

  Well the darn caliper hose washers leak, didn't catch that Rick advises Mopar P/N 6030084 to seal the banjo hose to the caliper! New were supplied with both the calipers and hoses so I have plenty of the thin ones and thought I was good.
  The good news is the Motive Power Bleeder worked great, I used 6lbs of pressure and 1 big C clamp to hold it. It pushed fluid all the way to the far rear corner. (Wile the fronts leaked!) So basically all the new lines are charged with brake fluid.
  Another week delay till the new washers get here and I can proceed, I ordered 4 from my local dealer and 4 off eBay just in case of delays/problems.  Gotta go clean up the mess I made!

[FJMG]

Very nice!
Pictures can sure be decieving...
In the first pic of your third post (where you indicate you adjusted to max caster) it sure looks like there is almost no caster to me.
Obviously the pic angle must be throwing a socket between my eyes!

[fy469rtse]

are these original spindles,
are they installed wrong ,  ? calipers the rear, change the spindles over left to right
castor would look correct then

[b5blue]

are these original spindles,
are they installed wrong ,  ? calipers the rear, change the spindles over left to right
castor would look correct then

Calipers are to the front, see the silver Hotchkis strut behind and running forward. The offset bushings are installed per this:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60100.msg671247.html#msg671247
   Sorry I've no room for any wider shots, with the bushings installed like in the link and pushed all the way outward I've still got some wiggle room with the struts adjustment forward or back.

[FJMG]

What is throwing my eye is that the spindle is at full drop in the pic, once the weight of the car is on the spindle then the upper ball joint on the UCA will move up and to the rear, increasing caster.

[b5blue]

  Leak figured out, this may help others. With no instructions or details I'd assumed the slight slant of the hose mounting block to the caliper pointed downwards on it's travel to the chassis/frame mount location. This was wrong, it slants upward. Having it the way I first installed it the lower edge of the hose crimp just touches the caliper and prevents 100% compression even with the thicker Mopar copper seals.
  I had to entirely remove the caliper hose to flip it (Both L&R side) as the frame mounting tab needs the hose repositioned and that requires disconnecting the steel line. I "test installed" with the thinner after market seals (Having extras.) and compared the "witness marks" to the failed seals. It confirmed the thinner seals (.060 thick.) may work okay by having proper compression impressions 360*, both sides for both seals. 
1st pic, WRONG!
2nd pic, RIGHT
3rd pic, you can just make out tiny edge that just barely messes things up.
4th pic, diagram that would have saved me weeks headaches. 

[b5blue]

After much delay I've installed a new manual master cylinder and master to distribution block lines. I used an Aspen manual disk brake master (1976 year, new not rebuilt.) to resolve a problem sealing the lines to the old rebuilt "73 only" manual disk brake master cylinder. So now after all of this the only reused part of the fluid's system is the distribution block.     The new master's bore is a bit bigger so it has less travel, I'll report back on how things feel and adjust after I change out carb and intake.