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TRANSGO TF2 valve body modifications

Started by CB, March 09, 2015, 10:58:08 AM

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CB

Hi folks, those who successfully installed a TF2 shift kit, please advise.

I read the instructions many times again and this last step is just to feel at ease before drilling and grinding into the valve body.

drilling into the separator plate is done:



I only had C to drill, ABD wasn't neccecary/allready fine.

They say to file a notch, over the bore, right? (marked with a sharpy)
What do they mean by 'it's not fussy'?



Next is the drilling with the drill plate:







Line bypass ball & spring: drilling picture out of 727 Handbook


is this the right location to drill? (small dot under screwdriver)



Grinding stem valve: done








Some advice or warnings before I start drilling or filing?
Thanks!  :cheers:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

John_Kunkel


When they say "not fussy" they simply mean the exact size/shape of the notch isn't critical.

The latest version of the instructions is way different than in the past, they now recommend you leave out the 1/4" check ball from the "D" shaped cavity for all stages of mod, this makes for a pretty violent 1-2 upshift; previously this was only recommended for the full race stage. I disagree with this, I would leave in the check ball and increase the size (drill) of the "B" orifice in the pic below to no more than 1/8".

Every thing else is OK, you have it figured out.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

CB

Thanks John!  :cheers:
So I am leaving in the 1/4 ball in de D-shaped hole, for a not so harsh 1-2 shift, right?
Do I need to drill into the plate or can I just leave it this way?


1968 Dodge Coronet 500

70-500-SE-EXPORT

I recently installed the TF2 kit and had a terribly harsh 1-2 and 2-3 (from shift overlap) using the instructions for the hot/rod street strip. I had to pull the VB off and get a new one because my separator plate was drilled too large. For a fast and firm 1-2 shift leave the checkball in the D shaped cavity as John recommended and leave the "B" checkball in place and drill the hole no larger than .125. Removing the "B" ball as recommended in the "hot rod / street strip" settings was a huge mistake! The 1-2 wasn't a shift it was a BANG under anything but full throttle.
I drilled the "B" hole to .125, if I could go back I would have went to the smaller .086 size. The .125 is still a overly firm shift under light-medium throttle which is overkill for a street driven car.

The 2-3 was just as harsh and wasn't even a shift it was a violent bang. (yes I did install the oil restrictor orifice for the 3rd gear clutch)
This was because of a overlap I now had because I drilled the "C" hole to the "hotrod" size of .187 which was a big mistake.
After obtaining a new separator plate and drilling it to .086 the 2-3 overlap was gone and the shift was fast and firm and not harsh.
68 Charger original SS1 paint with matching # 383hp

John_Kunkel

Quote from: CB on March 09, 2015, 04:00:04 PM
Thanks John!  :cheers:
So I am leaving in the 1/4 ball in de D-shaped hole, for a not so harsh 1-2 shift, right?
Do I need to drill into the plate or can I just leave it this way?

Drill the plate. I use a #43 drill (.089"). As the post above noted, it's easier to go bigger if you want a firmer shift but you can't go smaller.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

myk

Why would they ask you to make such a disastrous change to your transmission?

68Charger4me

Boy am I glad I saw this before I installed the tranny In the car!  I left the ball out of the channel.. I think I will just pull the valve body and put the ball back in and try that in the spring.  Thanks for the info John!

CB

About the rear servo, they suggest to grind down the piston lip. The machine shop charges me 60-100  for this job. :scratchchin:
Is this really necessary or is only installing the spacer just fine?
Edit: after talking to the shop owner he said he can do it after hours for 25 :brickwall:
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

CB

rear piston lip didn't need to be grinded down...

Drilled and filed:









Here is a pic of the modified VB installed.


1968 Dodge Coronet 500

CB

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 10, 2015, 12:46:29 PM
Quote from: CB on March 09, 2015, 04:00:04 PM
Thanks John!  :cheers:
So I am leaving in the 1/4 ball in de D-shaped hole, for a not so harsh 1-2 shift, right?
Do I need to drill into the plate or can I just leave it this way?

Drill the plate. I use a #43 drill (.089"). As the post above noted, it's easier to go bigger if you want a firmer shift but you can't go smaller.

done as described, thanks John
1968 Dodge Coronet 500

CB

everything installed, deep pan with Moroso gasket...



Car drives well, nice firm but no harsh shifts!  :2thumbs:

Next on the list: tuning the carb (runs too rich)
1968 Dodge Coronet 500