guys, help, 1972 dodge charger

[XH29N0G]

ballast resistor    (no ic on end) It is on the firewall (google it is easiest) and steps down the voltage to the coil either when the engine is running or during cranking ( one or the other and something I should know but always have to look up.)  These things (like the ECU) go and all of the sudden the car stops working.  

[Charger-Bodie]

ballast resistor    (no ic on end) It is on the firewall (google it is easiest) and steps down the voltage to the coil either when the engine is running or during cranking ( one or the other and something I should know but always have to look up.)  These things (like the ECU) go and all of the sudden the car stops working.  

Lol. Stupid autocorrect.

[polywideblock]

I've always found this tech feature by rick e to be very informative

                                   http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/roadside.html

[lukedukem]

I've always found this tech feature by rick e to be very informative

                                   http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/roadside.html

Heck yeah, that's a real good article. Nice polywideblock 

Luke

[sawyer440rt]

Ok, read the article, thx a ton, but now I'm not sure if its the coil, or the little capacitor underneath the coil or the points and condensor, the rotor button turns like crazy so I don't think its the distributor, thx, will keep trying. Mike.

[sawyer440rt]

Oh, forgot to mention, cap, rotor, plugs and wires are brand new.

[sawyer440rt]

Yay!!!! found the problem with a little trouble shooting, I guess earlier when I started replacing some vacuum hoses i must have hit the wire by the coil and broke it, it was the little wire that goes into the distributer to the points and condensor out of the positive side of coil. fix the stupid wire and she fired right up, amazing how stupid little things like that could cause that, luke, thx for the advice, poly, your my hero, without that article, never would of found that wire, you the man poly!!!, thx team, YOU ARE ALL MASSIVE AWESOMENESS!!!!, thx, Mike.

[VegasCharger]

Glad you got her running again
After seeing more pics of the 72 you've got one hellva deal going on there. I'd pay twice that much for that car if I were in the market for it.

does anybody know the name of the tool that takes off the chrome around the windows?

To answer your question here this is the tool that you need. (see pic of mine below)

A link to one on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPRO-T70600-WINDOW-MOLDING-REMOVER-AND-WINDSHIELD-TRIM-TOOL-/311301968123?hash=item487b0b10fb&item=311301968123&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Also available at local auto parts stores especially the auto paint stores like NAPA

[Pete in NH]

Ignition Systems- 1972 was a transition year between point systems and the new electronic ECU system. Corporate and rental fleet cars got he new electronic system so Chrysler could get field experience with it. It was an option on other cars you could order but, I don't know how many people did. At some point you will have to deal with those points and replace them or convert to an electronic ignition system. To tune up the point system you'll need a timing light, dwell meter and feeler gauge. I wonder if you can buy a dwell meter anymore? I also understand it's getting hard to find decent quality points anymore. The points used to go about 10,000 miles before the rubbing block would wear down and the contacts start to burn.

From some of your other posts- Air compressors are rated by how much air volume they can deliver in cubic feet per minute. That number will tell you what you can run with it. On spray guns - There all kinds of spray guns, some are for house painting, some for furniture finishing and of course auto paint guns. There are also a types kinds of automotive paint guns. So, you might mention what that Sears gun you have is.  The tip size on the gun is determined by what you are spraying with it. Epoxy primers  generally use something around 1.4 to 1.8 MM but it depends on what the epoxy maker calls for.

Before you start sanding on a car panel wash it down twice with a detergent and water solution and hose off well. You don't want to drive surface dirt, grease and oils down into the metal with the sanding process. I would look up the Southern Polyurethanes Inc. website and paint forum. Join the forum and post pictures of your car and ask for advise on how to proceed. The tech. support offered by the company and many real paint professionals there is truly amazing. SPI epoxy primer is also very good stuff.

Did you find those factory manuals yet? They are just what you need before starting on the brakes.

[sawyer440rt]

K

[polywideblock]

does it look like this   

72 power bulge hood and standard 72 front end   

[sawyer440rt]

Yes poly, exactly like that but faded blue and black!!!

[polywideblock]

the power bulge hood is worth serious coin unless its rusted out  ,would be a nice addition to your car   

[sawyer440rt]

so will all the parts from his car match exactly to mine or will it involve welding??

[6spd68]

the power bulge hood is worth serious coin unless its rusted out  ,would be a nice addition to your car   

[EccentricMagpies]

so will all the parts from his car match exactly to mine or will it involve welding??

...does not have the hide away headlights like mine, the front hood looks bigger or budged out, not like mine, the dash looks a little different than mine to, but the rest looks the same, and he is parting his out, my front hood is pretty thin and rusty, weak so to say, the trunk lid is rusted bad, so I want a new/good one of those, all his fenders are in great shape, mine have a few small dents here and there, nothing major, can't really see them, but I know they are there and it just bothers me for some reason. Im willing to make the trip if you guys tell me yes everything will fit??

All of these parts will interchange with yours.  You have some of the desirable pieces such as the hideaways and rallye gauges and this guy seems to have others like the bulge hood. You might be able to simply buy the whole parts car for a better price in which you can sell off some things as well???  Just a thought.  

Glad things are going well.  Car looks pretty good which is good to see!!

[sawyer440rt]

A

[polywideblock]

would have to see the car to give a guess at a price ,everything should be a "bolt on" swap one to the other      

             ask him what he wants for the whole car ,he might surprise you especially if he has to get rid of it . it never hurts to ask    

[ACUDANUT]

Sawyer, I have a 72 hood that is yours with a combination of 73 roadrunner hood riveted to a 72 Charger hood.   It looks killer. Let me know if you want pic's on that  too.

[sawyer440rt]

Heck yeah bro, can't wait to see the floor and hood, thx bro!!!

[ACUDANUT]

10-4.  We got snow today, but this weekend is supposed to be nice  I will take some pic's this weekend.

[sawyer440rt]

Sounds great buddy, much appreciated, looking forward to seeing them and thx again.

[1972DodgeChargerSE]

With the parts you are talking about buying I would be prepared to pay more than what you paid for your current car, especially the bulge hood. Looks like a nice topper! Looking forward to seeing progress. Also I would check your cowl for leaks mine leaks and that is what rusted my front floor boards.

[sawyer440rt]

l

[1972DodgeChargerSE]

1972 Dodge Charger se, cowl? Teach me bro, what is a cowl???, thx for the advice guys, much appreciated!!!

Your cowl is the vent that lets fresh air into the car. It is built in to the firewall Under the little slats at the back of the hood. You can access it by opening the hood and removing the flexible plastic "gratings". It can leak for several reasons of varying difficulty to fix from it being clogged to it being complety rusted out. I have also heard it is common on b bodies for a certain bolt to poke a hole in the cowl but I don't know which one, but a search on the forum will bring up several topics about it.